I have no useful input onwinches, but I have a deep and abiding hatred of Anderson Powerpole connectors, so I thought I'd chime in (sorry Henryaz).

When connected they work fine: good mating surface. But they never seem to stay connected for me, unless I cable tie the damn things. And I also don't like the fact that they can be connected incorrectly (the positive and negative connectors are the same).

I much prefer something that can only connect one way (correctly) and stays connected under vibration and strain. Circular MIL connectors are nice -- if they work on aircraft, they work on your car

quote:

Originally posted by PeterGV:
I have no useful input onwinches, but I have a deep and abiding hatred of Anderson Powerpole connectors, so I thought I'd chime in (sorry Henryaz).

When connected they work fine: good mating surface. But they never seem to stay connected for me, unless I cable tie the damn things. And I also don't like the fact that they can be connected incorrectly (the positive and negative connectors are the same).

I much prefer something that can only connect one way (correctly) and stays connected under vibration and strain. Circular MIL connectors are nice -- if they work on aircraft, they work on your car

I admit to only working with one size (the 120 amp one piece units). The one piece units are polarized, so as long as you wired them correctly, it is impossible to cross connect them. And they are so hard to get apart, they sell a separate 'T' handle you can attach to each one to be able to pull them apart. I used that size for an on-board air system, with a compressor that drew 95 amps, and even though I mounted it using rubber between the compressor and frame, you could feel it vibrate from the driver's seat when it kicked on (this was on an FJ-40). The big Anderson's never budged. I can see how the smaller ones might be subject to separation, because the pins and spring inside connect with much less tension. Never seen the Circular MIL connectors until just now. It is easy to see they are superior (and much more expensive, too).

@Henryaz: Ah! The 120A one piece units! I had never even seen those... those DO look nice. THAT now makes sense. Those ARE beasts, I agree.

30A and 45A... not so much.

The suggestion of circular MIL connectors as a substitute was really done with tongue firmly planted I cheek. They ARE cool, though.

So... cool. I learned something today. One piece polarized 120A PowerPole connectors.

Couple more things to think about, you only get the rated pull of the winch on the first turn of rope on the drum. If you run a winch with 200 feet of rope, you need to pull it all out to get rated capacity, or buy enough winch to make up for losing capacity as you wind layers on your winch.

Also, regarding any connectors in winch wiring, be sure they can handle the amperage. I've seen 120 amp connectors mentioned here, but those probably won't work. Look up what your winch needs, most pull 400-500 amps at max load.

quote:

Originally posted by Perception:
Also, regarding any connectors in winch wiring, be sure they can handle the amperage. I've seen 120 amp connectors mentioned here, but those probably won't work. Look up what your winch needs, most pull 400-500 amps at max load.

I agree the 120 amp connectors would not work for a winch. They were just mentioned because of experience working with larger type Andersons, for a different application entirely.
 
Does Warn really supply cable with the winch that supports that type of current draw? That would be 0000 cable. Looking at a Warn M12-S, the supplied battery leads are 2AWG, 72" long, which is good for at most 200 amps, with the best insulation. I would size a fuse and connector based on the size cable being supplied by the manufacturer, or whatever size cable you will use.
 

quote:

Originally posted by henryaz:

quote:

Originally posted by Perception:
Also, regarding any connectors in winch wiring, be sure they can handle the amperage. I've seen 120 amp connectors mentioned here, but those probably won't work. Look up what your winch needs, most pull 400-500 amps at max load.

I agree the 120 amp connectors would not work for a winch. They were just mentioned because of experience working with larger type Andersons, for a different application entirely.
 
Does Warn really supply cable with the winch that supports that type of current draw? That would be 0000 cable. Looking at a Warn M12-S, the supplied battery leads are 2AWG, 72" long, which is good for at most 200 amps, with the best insulation. I would size a fuse and connector based on the size cable being supplied by the manufacturer, or whatever size cable you will use.
 

I'm pretty sure my M8000S came with that same 2 AWG cable. The winch is listed as 435 amps at full load.

Probably none of the electrical components are up to the task here. From the stock battery to the connectors and on down the the alternator and factory cables. The salvation in all this is that few ever get used at all, and even fewer at the stall point where the amp draw goes thru the roof.

Serious users are few and far between. I'm just going to guess that 99% are more for show (storage of ski line to impress). The synthetic cable is better in this application because on hidden winches, it takes the 40# steel cable and replaces it with maybe an 8 or 10# of plastic. All out in front of the front axle where leverage can work for or against the driver. If its not going to be used, lighter is better.

For those reading or just interested, next time you see a 4wd with a hook on the front, walk over and see if you can look in and see the cable. On most its neatly wound and showing no signs at all of use. Mine hasn't been used, but that jeep has only made 3 10 day trips out west. I really try not to get stuck. For the vast majority of us when we do, getting unstuck is just a matter of a few feet of help. You've got to be really stuck to need a full 125' of pull.

On really tough pulls, you can just about fry an egg on the winch motor. I try to let someone else use his winch on those when its possible. With the high speed of today's winches, you won't need to be pulling for half an hour. It wasn't always like that back when the 8274 was in its heyday.

Those of us who have the new Platinum series Warn mostly pay $1000 or more just for the winch and line, then several hundred more for the mount. By then, a few hundred more for a bigger battery, alternator, and quality cables and ends seems minor. Compare that to spending a few hundred total for a Harbor fright model, you've maybe doubled the total cost just by putting on a decent mount (yes, you can get an indecent one). A bigger or newer battery and alternator, along with some made up cables will more than double the expense. All for an item you may never use.

Back in the last century I couldn't wait to find some fool stuck so I could show off my toys. All that ended in the 1980s when I realized if or when I tore up my line or electrical system, I was the only one who would pay. Over the years I mostly use mine for felling trees (you can put the tree exactly where you want it, but that's almost always right at your jeep. Use all the line or a snatch block to pull at 90 degrees. Its easier to pull out bushes with a strap.

To install a 10,500 or 12,500 winch and upgrade everything is going to cost you $2000 and that's if you do all the mechanical work. Using a HF cheapo (made in China) you can get away with $500. For one or two easy pulls a year, it'll do just fine. It just won't impress us snobs.

I'm happy to say that after 5 years with a winch on my Tacoma Ive never had to use it, despite a lot of fun off-roading in the mountains. Then again, I'm not a mudder. I have a replacement synthetic rope to install because the first is pretty UV discolored on the hook end.

So ? what did you end up with ?

As has been mentioned, ih8mud.com is a great resource. I've got an 80 series Land Cruiser, and have considered adding one just for emergency use. What little I know of them is that most say to buy more winch than you think you'd need.

I have seen several folks say that the Harbor Freight winch (the 12K one, mostly) does a good job, and you can't beat the price. Depending on how often you'll use it, that might be all you want. Also, might look at an ARB or similar bumper to mount it to. Besides, if you run into any stray kangaroos, ARB has a guarantee...

quote:

Originally posted by orionS14:
US Off Road is well regarded with the FJ Cruiser guys...

Looks like you'd have to trim the front bumper...but it's a good looking setup, in the end.

https://www.usoffroad.us/2012-...-tacoma-version-2-0/

- Brian

Brad over at US Off Road makes a superior product his winch mount bumpers keep the winch hidden behind the bumper.

https://www.usoffroad.us/store...-winch-mount-bumper/

And if you happen to be in Texas, near DFW he's down in Granbury so you could save some money on shipping.