It is an MDF paneling. Thinking about using it as a ceiling on an inside a building application.
.139 thickness so it is pretty thin, but the truss' are spaced 24" oc. There will be R40 insulation blown in above it.

http://www.homedepot.com/p/Aut...1394809600/302775248

You'd be fine adhering it to gypsum board substrate. Otherwise, as it indicates in the specs, it's for wall use. I suspect otherwise you may get some sag, especially considering 24" OC.

Pretty sure the insulation will be too heavy for it with 24" joists spacing.

Would not do it.

It will warp and sag terribly, even if you block the seams. Even if on 16" OC joist.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:
Would not do it.

It will warp and sag terribly, even if you block the seams. Even if on 16" OC joist.

It MIGHT work OK if put on furring strips 12" OC.

That's about 1/8" thick....no way will it support the insulation without significantly bowing.

As was mentioned above you could run 2x4 firing strips maybe on 12" centers and it would be better.

It will absorb moisture and sag a lot.

Its not flame retardent is it?

ok guys, that is why I asked. I knew you guys would know.

So this is small cabin. I want to eventually do a wood (cedar or blue knotty pine) walls. But the ceiling is first and I am looking for a ceiling material. We are thinking the walls and ceiling being the same is going to be too much of a good thing. Not sure though.

Thoughts on doing the ceiling and what to use?

Thanks guys.

MDF is a very unstable product. Looks like you've gotten some sage advise already.

Your best bet is to screw plywood (1/2" to the joists and then glue the mdf panel to the plywood. The plywood will hold the weight of the insulation.

quote:

Originally posted by qcsmitty:
MDF is a very unstable product. Looks like you've gotten some sage advise already.

Actually it is very stable. Just not very strong in the application the OP is asking about.

At 24" OC you will get sag, even 12" is pushing it at the material depth indicated. You could put 1x2 Poplar as "Battens" on the outboard side if you wanted rather than furring. Just screw them through the MDF to the joists.

Have you considered the possibility of using the corrugated metal that they use for metal buildings? That is what we used in our hunting cabin. Prefinished with lots of colors available, plenty strong and comes in pretty good sized sheets.

quote:

Originally posted by old rugged cross:
Thoughts on doing the ceiling and what to use?

Thanks guys.

If you really dig wood, I'd shop T&G options. You'll have quite a few options to choose from.

Thanks guys. Sailor. We did use metal on the roof and exterior siding. It is a good option for the ceiling but my wife is not hot on the idea.

agreed with everyone that it will sag too much.

in my opinion, dark ceilings close in a space and light colors make spaces feel much bigger. if you're after a rustic look, I'd suggest a 1x6 or 1x8 wood plank painted white and maybe distressed to achieve the rustic look. you can t&g or ship lap.

if that seems too expensive, 1/4" plywood might be the way to go. battens at the edges. I would paint it, personally, but I've seen plenty where it was not.

I'd go with some T&G pine/cedar siding. If you're looking to do knotty pine on the walls eventually I'd try to do the ceiling in that now with some T&g knotty pin car siding or something along those lines. Easier to install than plywood and will give that rustic/cabin look you're going for. Make sure to put a moisture barrier down before putting up the ceiling. I'd also consider prefinishing before install - heck of a lot easier to do it on the ground than on the ceiling. Just keep it out of the tongue/groove.

What is knotty pine car siding?

Thinking we may do T&G cedar on the ceiling and KP on the walls. Might even consider this MDF paneling on the walls. I assume you would just nail it to the framing. 16" oc walls. We could do the walls for around $500 if so. That is pretty appealing.

Aside from physical problems, it will look very dark on a ceiling. The room will seem low and dim. Cave-like, even.

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:

quote:

Originally posted by cparktd:
Would not do it.

It will warp and sag terribly, even if you block the seams. Even if on 16" OC joist.

It MIGHT work OK if put on furring strips 12" OC.

This!

That gives plenty of places to use small headed nails, brads, etc. You can also get nails that are colored so they will not stand out as much.

I was originally thinking 16 inch centers, but given how thin that stuff is, 12 inches seems to be better. I would use at least 1x2, probably 1x3s given the probable insulation weight load.