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Hop head  |
good to know on the motors, I had not taken the time to dig into the makers, but was just told French on the Cooper S's I had, and agreed on the new body style, a 4 door hardtop is just criminal, that's the biggest reason I did not buy a new one when my 13 was totaled, and a Cooper with a CVT is blasphemy as well https://chandlersfirearms.com/chesterfield-armament/ | |||
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First gen motor was a 1.6L version of the 2.0L iron block Chrysler put in the Dodge Neon SRT4 and was made in Brasil. Very stout bottom end on it. Could easily be made to displace 2.0L and with either a turbo swap or centrifugal supercharger and water-to-air intercooler, could make BIG power. Heck, my 1.6L stock bottom end with underdrive pulley, GP intercooler, JCW airbox, underdrive pulley, big valve head, larger injectors and four-into-one long tube headers made 70% more power than stock and that was with a mild increase in boost from the pulley (15% underdrive vs. the more aggressive ones some used). We some of the 2.0L conversions make 400+ whp and 300ft/lbs. Makes for a FUN with a vehicle that weight only 2500lbs | |||
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I put front factory tower braces on from the Cabrio for extra rigidity, reinforcing strut tower plates (metal was known to deform on hard impacts), Cross coilovers, 16" SSR wheels, 16" Volk TE37's, 18" HRE's color-matched.....DEEP END on bottomless pit of $$$ spent on mods. HRE's for show:  Volks for every day  SSR's for "go" with Yokohama race rubber...  underhood pic with factory JCW and GP parts (re-tasked the rear wiper reservoir with an intercooler spray kit)   Recaro's out of a Mitsubishi EVO IX on custom sliders, UK market center console (flips out of the way), JCW carbon and Alcantara bits and leather dash   shift light from an R56 JCW retro-fit to the R53...it really came in handy on the track  JCW GP third brake light aero insert (moved the CHMSL lower inside the glass) and aero lip....also had a JCW front Aero bumper added.  | |||
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| Power is nothing without control |
I had one for a couple years. The engine and transmission never gave me any trouble, but the rest of the car sure did. Rear hatch rusted through starting around the license plate mount hole. Drivers seat adjustment system failed and locked up. Both window motors went out. I know there was more, but don’t remember all of it anymore. Sensors and ancillary electronics were the bane of my existence on that car. Fun to drive, but it felt like something was always broken so I sold it. It was barely over 80k when I got rid of it. I wouldn’t recommend one unless you can replace electrical stuff yourself, or you plan to strip it and go racing. - Bret | |||
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PGT, that HT looks fantastic, those Recaros look perfect in there. ftttu, no email in your profile. Any issues with your NA Cooper? Found a base 2012 6MT Clubman [with under 100k] and a 2013 Base 6MT Hardtop local, still tossing the idea around. Test drove a JCW Clubman years ago & recall it being a blast. Obviously the base NA Cooper won't be nearly as fast. Always thought the Clubman was a fun kind of quirky, and having a more accessible back seat helps with kiddos. The more time I spend sucking down 89 at 15mpg in my loaner 6.2l V8 Suburban, the more I want my Explorer back, but the thought of having no car note again is appealing. Looking around, the Clubman on 93 would be about equal to what I'm spending on 87 in the Explorer, better MPG offset by pricier fuel. Coworker has a 2019 Cooper 5-door, and it's been trouble free [but obviously a completely different generation Mini]. The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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My initial desire for my first MINI, and later, for my second, I only wanted NA. I didn’t want the problems of a small forced induction engine, so I stayed with the Cooper performance level. While trying to keep up with the Cooper S and JCW models in the high country of Colorado while on MINI runs, I found I needed forced induction. I was with them or better in the curves, but they would tear me up ascending steep high altitude mountain highways. I loved my Clubman Cooper, especially having a family, but I decided to go to a Cooper S hardtop for the performance I needed way up high. Also, that ‘10 model had a real limited slip differential as opposed to the non-mechanical of the ‘11. However, I really liked the sport button effects of the ‘11 over the ‘10. Again, I didn’t ever accrue a lot of miles on my MINIs, but I did drive them spiritedly while on my runs. I didn’t dog them out, but I did push them hard at times. I never had any mechanical problems with any. Also, they were all my weekend cars and not my daily drivers. I discuss them with my wife every now and then, and it would be MOST difficult for me to choose my favorite. Typing this, I still can’t decide. Retired Texas Lawman | |||
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Bumping this again. PGT/ftttu, and others; thoughts on a '14 Clubman S? Found one local while helping a coworker look for a new car. 72k miles, 6MT Doesn't look very high spec, leatherette & bonnet stripes, but otherwise looks like a pretty average spec S. The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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Bumping this one one more time. May try to go check it out this weekend if they still have it. Looking a bit more, it looks like it has the factory sport pkg [with LSD it seems], but otherwise a pretty normal Clubman S. Anything in particular to check out if I can make it down there? Sounds like a 2014 has most of the earlier year issues worked out (HPFP, oil leaks & timing chain rattles). The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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Well, brought home this 2010 R57 base convertible Saturday. Triple brown & an auto, but runs great. Short version, my dad has had it parked at his house for a year, car has no title. Getting a bonded title from the state & moving forward. Needs a few things, but not bad for a free car. Biggest issue is the rear glass needs to be re-bonded to the top. Have watched a few videos on it & doesn't seem a hard job, just tedious. Should make a good commuter & first car for my oldest in a couple years.  The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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Cool!  God bless America. | |||
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double post Retired Texas Lawman | |||
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It definitely needs some cleanup & some cosmetic fixes, but mechanically it's pretty solid. -First fix is to repair the rear window -After that, I'll get the interior put back together -The amp for the HK stereo is inop, so I'll have to get that fixed. Brought my decent bluetooth speaker with me for the 65 mile drive home. A decent stopgap remedy for now. -Needs some trim replaced [A-pillar visible in the above photo] The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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| Thank you Very little  |
Do you have service records for it, have any of the specified services been performed? If not you may want to set aside some time to do them, IIRC theres something about 100K service that's a big one. Heres a list I found from Mini MINI Cooper Maintenance After 10,000 Miles Brake fluid flush and replacement – every 30,000 miles Fuel filter replacement – every 40,000 miles Coolant flush and replacement – every 40,000 miles Transmission fluid flush and replacement – every 50,000 miles Drive belt replacement – every 60,000 miles Oxygen sensor replacement – every 100,000 miles Battery replacement – Every four to five years Tire replacement – Every four to five years, or whenever recommended Theres also a supercharger RNR that needs to be done around 100K. | |||
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Battery, tires, brakes are all new. No supercharger here, just a regular N/A 1.6l 4cyl Planning on doing the trans svc soon. Ign Coils are also all new Reading on the supercharger failures/rebuilds around 80-100k pushed me away from the 1st gen Coopers. The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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Cleaned up the headlights last night. Much improved Just need the remaining sensors to go into ready mode so I can get it inspected, then registered.   The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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Started on the top repair last week. Found a video of a guy fixing a similar year, with a similar glass separation, but mine is at the top of the glass instead of the bottom.  First step was to bond the doubled over fabric, started on that early last week & left it clamped a few days.  Started bonding the fabric to the glass today. Then, of course, it starts pouring & the humidity goes to eleventybillion. Had to tent the car, since the 'sunroof' is open, top is partially retracted & the trunk access is open. Plan to leave it clamped 3-5 days before checking on it.   Expecting the corners to need some further attention. Hard to apply clamping force across the whole glass. The Enemy's gate is down. | |||
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