We are heading to the Villages in Florida in a few days with the intention of buying a second home. How this home will be used and when it will be ready are still up in the air. Options we have:

1: Newly built but ready and available home. Will close in 30 days and we own it.

2: Choose a home site and build. Will take up to 6 months.

3: We decide we like the new areas that aren't being sold yet and wait.

Anyhow, if we buy a home that is ready we will need to make some swift decisions. This home will be an investment property for up to 5 or 6 years. We may rent it some of the time. We don't expect to make money on the rental, just to offset some of the costs.

So, if we end up with something and we are not going to be there for months at a time and haven't rented it, what steps do we need to do to store it so it's in good shape when we return.

I could have a company that comes 2X/week to check on it and run water, etc. Or we can close it up. Checking here because you guys know everything.

This may be a starter home to make a little cash when we sell, or it may be our forever retirement home if we find the right place. Thanks as always.

Here's what we do:
Michigan house:
1. Turn off breakers for well pump, AC, oven, hot tub, water heater and refrigerator.
2. Turn off water at well
3. Open all faucets and drain water heater and well pressure tank
4. Drain hot tub
5. Cover AC outdoor unit
6. Close blinds and install temporary blinds on windows that don't have regular ones
7. Close exterior hose bibs once water has drained
8. Pour RV antifreeze, the pink stuff, into sinks, toilets, hot tub inlet where the filter was
9. Cover hot tub and cover the cover
10. Set thermostat to 55
11. Dump refrigerator ice and prop fridge and freezer doors open
12. Check lights on generator to verify it's ready

Florida house:
1. Turn off breakers for water heater, hot tub, oven
2. Turn off water to house
3. Open a faucet to relieve water pressure, then close it
4. Dump ice and turn ice makers off
4b. Bring in all the patio furniture
5. Close the hurricane shutters
6. Close the blinds on the small windows
7. Unplug TVs, stereos, gaming systems, computers, etc.
8. Drain hot tub

That's off the top of my head. We have a checklist for the MI house, but it's in MI.

The main thing is turning off the water. Water damage sucks even if you have someone checking periodically. If your water heater is in the house or condo, I'd drain it. Ours in Florida is in the garage where little damage will occur should it spontaneously drain while we're gone. Make sure you fill the water heater before turning the breaker back on or you will burn the elements out. You'd be surprised how easy it is to look at the breaker panel and just flip them all on without thinking. I have elements on hand now because the hardware store that's 20 miles away may or may not have them in stock and the well water is 48 degrees which makes for really cold showers.

Covering the windows prevents sun damage to your stuff. Even with low-E glass, we noticed fading and color changes to furniture and flooring.

We aren't gone from Florida during the worst part of hurricane season, so we don't put the panels up. Once the kids are in college, we'll put the panels up as we'll stay in MI longer.

We keep the fridge in FL running, again we aren't away long enough.

I put the MI list up because freezing and breaking pipes there is a distinct possibility. It maybe in Central Florida as well.

I didn't go over the security procedures, but I will mention that I put all the spare keys in a safe deposit box.

Trappers list is pretty good.
Only thing I'd add to the Florida list is you need to leave the AC on and set to about 82. Otherwise you run a high risk of moldy/musty smell on return.

The other thing we do is turn off the water and then cover toilets with saran wrap to stop evaporation. Don't want them evaporating and allowing sewer gas to back up.

You really should have someone check on your Florida home a couple times a month. They can spot any possible damage and help you nip it in the bud, like a water leak or the a/c not functioning properly.

In addition to the good advice above, I would add that you make sure someone checks for bugs and or squirrel damage inside your home. Both can cause damage!

quote:

Originally posted by Powers77:
Trappers list is pretty good.
Only thing I'd add to the Florida list is you need to leave the AC on and set to about 82. Otherwise you run a high risk of moldy/musty smell on return.

The other thing we do is turn off the water and then cover toilets with saran wrap to stop evaporation. Don't want them evaporating and allowing sewer gas to back up.

Nice catch! I swear I put set the AC to 80 on the list. Our thermostat is connected to the internet, so I know if the AC is working or not. We also have an alarm system and cameras internet connected as well.

Good point on the toilets and drains as well. We aren't away long enough in Florida, but we'd do it if we were. A rope of plumber's putty and an appropriately sized round plastic food container works on the shower and sink drains.

Another thing I meant to put down was suck the AC condensate line out with a shopvac. That should be a part of your regular maintenance anyway.

If it weren't cost prohibitive I'd opt for pro's checking it regularly. That also eliminates squatters. Maybe it's overblown but I've seen horror stories about that (none first hand).

Besides the alarm and cameras, our pool guy and landscape guy will let us know if anything weird is going on at our house in FL. They get a good tip at Christmas.

The neighbors in MI check our house there as well.

That list is pretty similar to ours. However I leave all the faucets including the outside faucets open after draining everything.
I’d also suggest switching to a tankless water heater so you don’t have to worry about draining it.

I leave a couple windows just barely cracked on opposite sides of the house to allow a bit of airflow.

I also shut down the breakers that are not needed but leave a couple on as I have multiple Spypoint Cellular trail cameras in different locations inside the house that are plugged in to outlets so I don’t have to mess with batteries very often or internet.
Spypoint has a free level that is perfect because I never meet the threshold of photos inside since no one is there.
My main outside camera is a cellular Busnhell that is like $15 a month but gives me great HD pics as I get the license plate of any vehicle that may come on the property.
Also get lots of pictures of the wildlife so I would hit Spypoints free threshold quickly.
Spypoint cameras do not last long outdoors but inside and plugged in they work with no issues for a long time.

I’ll definitely have cameras. Tankless water heater will be outside or in the garage. These are brand new homes. Thanks for all the tips. This is very helpful.

I close the outside hose bibs because I don't want creepy crawlers in my water pipes. I could be missing the benefit of keeping them open?

If you are worried about pipes freezing, you still drain a tank less water heater, no? The water heater is the lowest point for my hot water lines and the pressure tank for the well is the lowest point for the cold water. I run hoses off each into the sump pit and open the valves. I don't think a tank less water heater simplifies that, but I could be missing that benefit as well?

I also keep the hose nozzles on the hoses, or flush the hose out before I put a hose nozzle on it. Learned the hard way that the lizards and frogs get into the hoses if the ends aren't covered. Otherwise, you put the hose nozzle on, turn the water on, and spend the next 30 minutes disassembling the nozzle and cleaning lizard or frog parts out of it.

For draining the hot tubs, I use our pool hose, fill it with water, put my hand over on end, and take it out of the tub to siphon the water out. It's much faster. Same in MI, but I use the shopvac hose. I then use a shopvac to suck the remaining water out including from each of the jets.

My Dad's place has a lanai that is not maintained by the landscape crew and he has to put down a long term herbicide before he leaves for Summer to prevent weeds from growing up between the floor tiles. Not sure if this would apply to you, but something to think about.

Check with the realtor, there is probably a management company in the Villages that will do this for you, of course for a fee, that goes for checking on property to renting it out for you.

Trappers list is good, like any second home, turning things off that can cause damages when nobody is home is good, but don't turn the AC off, leave it set for 80 at the max.

Get a remote control thermostat for the AC like Nest or spec it in the purchase/build contract so you can monitor it, check temps, set them to cool before you fly/drive in so the homes comfortable, and if you rent, make sure some yabo from up north didn't set it to 68 and then leave.

Same for the irrigation, you won't need to drain it down here, it doesn't get that cold, and if it does get cold, it's not for very long. A remote controller for the irrigation is good too so you can monitor its schedule, use, etc.

Security system, good idea, a camera inside, in the garage, couple outside just so you can check in on the home. Of course if you rent, inside camera might not be legal

Landscape, you should see who maintains the yard, depending on what and where you buy it could be an association thing handled by them and included in monthly dues or it could be on you. You will want a crew that mows, trims, cuts hedges, stuff grows here 12 months out of the year. You also want someone to stay up on treating the lawn, if you don't, you'll lose that yard quickly.

Know you neighbors, see who's there full time, have them over and once you get comfortable, let them know your phone numbers for emergency contact, say someone backs over an irrigation head and it's blowing water down the road when it runs, then you can turn it off with your remote control and get it fixed.

As for stuff like that, see if they have a maintenance d company you can contract with.

Pest Control, down here it's all external spray, building a barrier, we have bugs, ants, etc so you want a quality pest company on contract to spray and keep it bug free.

If you don't rent and you keep food, buy sealing containers to keep dry goods in, don't leave things in their boxes like cereals, crackers etc.

Cable/Internet, you have the ability to turn it on and off since you are a seasonal customer, but you'll probably want to leave the internet on all the time for the thermostat, cameras, etc.

Golf Cart, you'll want one, plenty of cart companies around, you can drop some serious coin on some of the new models, custom paint, BT sound bars, LED lights, lift kits, custom wheels. My preference is Club Car, aluminum frames don't rust, EZ-Go are less expensive but steel frames and the battery boxes corrode and rust.

Welcome to the land of the Free, and be sure to go over to Shooters World while you are there...

You might want to get a safe put in if you build the house and the builder can spec putting it in for you...

Link

Forgot to add, and V-Tails garage thread reminded me, when building, have them insulate over the garage, it will keep it cooler.

Outside of Golf Carts, Martinis and Viagra, the other Villages staple is a garage door screen, these are great especially in the winter when you can put the screen down and open up the house for some nice cool air. It also lets you get in and out of the garage easy and if you spend time out there working on things like reloading ammo, makes it a nicer place. We have one on the house.

Lifestyle Screen Door

Im a FL real estate attorney and happy to look over your closing docs if you wish and answer any questions you might have.


You are going to want to add leak alarms near water heaters, kitchen sink etc talk to alarm company about it something like this
remote leak detection

A Nest system seems like a good idea. Set a control temp to hold it while you are away. Then set it to run, like actually cool, at 3am for an hour or two maybe once a week. This keeps the compressor and handler running better in the low-use months.

Also in FL you will use the heat a few times a year, maybe for like 2-3 weeks in the winter in that area. If you leave it off all year, then click it on the night you need heat, it will stink.

Better to have a nest and switch the heat on while you are away, run that for a few hours in oct or november when you are not there. it will blow out the stink on the unit so when you do need it, it will be hassle-free.

Oh and get ready for total sticker shock on insurance

WIFI enabled thermostats can help you manage and get assurance of temps, and reset if HVAC gets messed up in a power flicker/outage. I'd put the wifi router on and modem on a battery backup.

Flo by Moen and others make water detection devices that are cheap and easy, I have them in each of my AC and water heater pans, plus laundry and two areas of main home. Also had one at our cabin that we are rebuilding, and will add more once done.

Even better, those detectors can be tied to a water shutoff that will turn off supply to entire house if a leak is detected. I'm including that in our new build since we aren't there for stretches at a time. One of my company owners is adding similar to his home where they just completed a $750K repair after the 2021 freeze burst pipes on second floor while they were away, they arrived 4 days later to a waterfall and river.

Lastly, 6 months for new construction other than a pre-fab home seems like a crack-smokin'-pipe-dream being sold by a builder. I'd expect twice that for anything other than the most tiny of tiny homes.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
I close the outside hose bibs because I don't want creepy crawlers in my water pipes. I could be missing the benefit of keeping them open?

If you are worried about pipes freezing, you still drain a tank less water heater, no? The water heater is the lowest point for my hot water lines and the pressure tank for the well is the lowest point for the cold water. I run hoses off each into the sump pit and open the valves. I don't think a tank less water heater simplifies that, but I could be missing that benefit as well?

Shutting the water off to the house and opening all the faucets empties the tankless water heaters. No need to hook up a hose and drag it outside or the nearest drain like with the tanks. Before redoing the the plumbing completely to make it far easier to close up. The water heater was under the cabinets and a gigantic pain to get to. Plus no need to worry about having to fill the tank and wait for it to heat each visit.
I shut it down the same every time I leave as it may be 2-3 months before I get back each time. Draining the tank each time was a pain. As in a good year I am down there 10 times.
I also had a shut off added outside at the house so I did not have to go all the way to the road to shut it off and deal with the snakes. Pretty much a good bet a snake or two was in the meter box at the road.
Also if anything were to burst now it would be outside.
I keep everything open so there is always airflow just incase a little water is trapped in the system.
My lowest point is my rear outside spigot. We have tons of creepy crawlies, snakes, lizards, spiders, bears, and so on. Never had an issue with them in the pipes.

If one uses a tankless system there is likely a whole house descaler somewhere. Mine is a screw on replaceable plastic cartridge. Forgot to remove that over this winter and it burst.
Turned on the water this spring and almost instantly realized my mistake.

No matter what winterizing steps you take , I would absolutely have somebody put eyes on it at least every one to two weeks . A trusted neighbor or a home inspection company , etc.

Not to stir up a hornet’s nest but I think some of the suggestions are a little extreme.

We’ve had, and have properties that we have “winterized” for months at a time and have never had an issue if we do the following:

1. Shut off the main water line to the house. If there’s a chance of freezing open all the faucets and let everything drain. Sponge out the water in the toilet bowls and tanks. Pour a few cups of RV anti freeze in every P trap as well as the dishwasher and clothes washer. I have never drained my water heater and I would think in Florida the chance of that freezing is even more remote.I do shut the breaker off to it on the ones that are tanked.

2. Set the thermostats to the minimum for heating (maybe 45 or 50) and to 80 or so for cooling. If your thermostats are WiFi enabled or programmable that is the way to go as you can monitor it remotely. I have set mine to run the fan at least 5 minutes every hour even if there is no call for heat or AC.

3. Clean out your fridge, unplug it and leave the doors open to prevent mold.

4. If you have a trusted neighbor or landscaper ask them to have a look around or give them a key if they are truly trustworthy. Or if you’re inclined a video security system.

5. Lock the door and walk away.

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:

Lastly, 6 months for new construction other than a pre-fab home seems like a crack-smokin'-pipe-dream being sold by a builder. I'd expect twice that for anything other than the most tiny of tiny homes.

That's really not correct at all. Only shitty builders take longer. My wife is a realtor for a builder here in Massachusetts. Delivery is 60 days from mortgage commitment. Building doesn't start until then (except for site work that would be done no matter the house).

The Villages has it down to a science. There are only so many model homes. They are now using tilt wall construction (concrete walls are prefab and just tilted up on the slab). The Villages is selling about 300-500 homes per month.

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
No matter what winterizing steps you take , I would absolutely have somebody put eyes on it at least every one to two weeks . A trusted neighbor or a home inspection company , etc.

Yeah I just did a cursory search and it won't be that expensive, less than $100/month for 2 visits a week. So that will be a definite.

quote:

Originally posted by smlsig:


3. Clean out your fridge, unplug it and leave the doors open to prevent mold.

I'm glad so many mentioned this. My wife wouldn't let me forget that task. As a realtor she is always stopping clients from opening the fridge on vacant houses. She's like, "No, don't open that! Just have it removed and buy a new one!"