Or how a 2 day project turned into a month long ordeal...

So I gathered up what all tools I think I needed to fix this.
Never had to fix a stripped block with it in the car.
I had to remove the drivers side engine mount to ally it to rock over for clearance.
But I got it done and the head bolted down.
Most of the accessory brackets are on now.
And the R134 conversion to the AC unit is in.

Oh I found out that the pushrods are too short!
The heads have BIG valves for a longer lift cam so my rocker arms sit too far rocked back.
•sigh• so they push rods will be here Wednesday.




Yes, I was sweating bullets by this point...
I only get 1 shot.

Nicely done!

That’s really cool! You got skills! Here I was just happy I changed the spark plugs on the Odyssey yesterday. First time on a transverse V for me, but it was surprisingly easy.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
That’s really cool! You got skills! Here I was just happy I changed the spark plugs on the Odyssey yesterday. First time on a transverse V for me, but it was surprisingly easy.

There are some you have to reach from the bottom.
I did a traverse V6 I had to remove 2 engine mounts, rock it forward, to change them!
And it was a favor!

Very nice

See, those are the stories I’ve read that made me apprehensive about the job.

Any reason you didn't just pull the short block out of the frame at that point and do this on an engine stand? I was primarily a Pontiac guy during this time frame, though I helped out a LOT of friends w/ Small Block & Big Block Chevys that needed a solid wrench, but if my memory serves me correctly, you were one bolt on the remaining motor mount, three bolts on the Torque Converter and six bolts away from unbolting the engine from the trans, and yanking it outta there!

Why not just do that work on an engine stand, reassemble the engine and drop the whole thing in between the frame rails once you had it all back together? Your back would certainly appreciate doing it that way...I know mine would.

Honestly, as anal as I am when doing pretty much any such work, I'd would've had the heebie-jeebies about getting metal in the water jacket drilling the block for that threaded insert, so bravo on getting that done successfully with the block in the car!

When Righty Tighty becomes Lefty Loosy in mid swing of the final torque increment on the last head bolt...

Nice job!

A good jig is yer best buddy!

quote:

Originally posted by nhracecraft:
Any reason you didn't just pull the short block out of the frame at that point and do this on an engine stand? I was primarily a Pontiac guy during this time frame, though I helped out a LOT of friends w/ Small Block & Big Block Chevys that needed a solid wrench, but if my memory serves me correctly, you were one bolt on the remaining motor mount, three bolts on the Torque Converter and six bolts away from unbolting the engine from the trans, and yanking it outta there!

Why not just do that work on an engine stand, reassemble the engine and drop the whole thing in between the frame rails once you had it all back together? Your back would certainly appreciate doing it that way...I know mine would.

Because there's still an engine on the engine stand AND an engine on the hoist for the second time. It was mentioned in the last thread.

quote:

Originally posted by nhracecraft:
Any reason you didn't just pull the short block out of the frame at that point and do this on an engine stand?
Honestly, as anal as I am when doing pretty much any such work, I'd would've had the heebie-jeebies about getting metal in the water jacket drilling the block for that threaded insert, so bravo on getting that done successfully with the block in the car!

First, I'm out of engine stands.
Second, no matter what you do metal filings will end up in the water jacket.
There's so little it'll end up at the bottom in a corner and interfere with nothing.
Everything that I picked up with the samarium–cobalt magnet was powder.
I used a lot of cutting oil and it stuck inside the bit too.
Also, this was faster.

Boot for reference.

Nice work, I like the portable drill press. Of course the bad hole was on the left side by the brake booster.

.

quote:

Originally posted by Greymann:
Nice work, I like the portable drill press. Of course the bad hole was on the left side by the brake booster.

.

In the almost worst place it could be.
I was able to release the drivers motor mount and lift the engine over.
Rotating it more than enough to clear.
If it had been a lower one or the one in the compete back, I would have pulled the engine.

OK here's what it looks like all put together.

It's ummm, throaty now!

Where did you get the tool in the first post that guides the drill for straight holes?

I am pretty sure I NEED one of those. LOL

Amazon! It's called a portable drill press.

I modified that one. I made sure it was 100% level and permanently locked it. then fill the bottom cavity with epoxy and rare earth button magnets.

Exact one I have. There are better ones.
I just needed it for one time use.

Is there a carburetor under that air cleaner or did you go with one of those EFI type units?

quote:

Originally posted by MRMATT:
Is there a carburetor under that air cleaner or did you go with one of those EFI type units?

It's the original quadrajet.
I had to retune it for the camshaft and top-end flow.
That intake makes the stock aircleaner sit higher and it BARELY fits under the hood.

What are you shooting for in terms of horsepower, and is that one an automatic or a stick?

It's an automatic.
With the heads, intake and camshaft, it's about 325hp.
From it's paltry 180ish.