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Wait, what? |
I have a 2013 Outback with the 3.6 6cylinder that is experiencing a distinct chatter/shudder when it shifts to 3rd gear only. The shudder is far more pronounced during hard acceleration but still present when you baby the gas pedal. It occurs in no other gear change and except from 2nd to 3rd. It occurs whether shifting with the paddles or letting the car do the shifting. I’m hoping to get an idea what’s going on before I take it to the shop. “Remember to get vaccinated or a vaccinated person might get sick from a virus they got vaccinated against because you’re not vaccinated.” - author unknown | ||
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Raptorman |
Sounds like the torque converter or clutches are worn out and needs a soft parts overhaul. The valve body could have varnish buildup from lack of fluid changes also. How many miles? ____________________________ Eeewwww, don't touch it! Here, poke at it with this stick. | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
^^^ It sounds like it to me, too. Another possibility - but less likely due to only occurring at specific times - is an engine misfire, usually ignition-related. Depending on Subaru's misfire detection strategy, such a misfire may or may not trigger the engine light and set at least the generic misfire code P0300. | |||
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Wait, what? |
The transmission has 200K, while the engine has around 100k as the block was replaced under warranty due to a severe oil consumption problem. I’m leaning towards a clutch pack issue since it only occurs when shifting to 3rd and no other time. “Remember to get vaccinated or a vaccinated person might get sick from a virus they got vaccinated against because you’re not vaccinated.” - author unknown | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
This is a situation where I think it would be worth the gamble to do a complete fluid exchange, with a filter (pretty sure it has one, but the pan may be cemented on, which runs a risk of damage to it or the transmission case getting it off). Use whatever fluid is called for, no substitutes. (Wrong fluids are where a lot of transmission fluid services go wrong.) This has been shown to often clear up such shuddering. I even fixed a couple of such situations in my former work. Shuddering is a different issue from slipping. | |||
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Partial dichotomy |
^^^ I was going to suggest this, but I'm far from an expert. I do know that I had issues with my Honda CR-V transmission clunking after routine fluid services with Dextron 2 fluid (called for topping off, but not changes I later learned). After just ONE drain and fill with Honda fluid, problem went away. Might be worth at least one drain/fill and see what happens. | |||
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Member |
Wife’s 2008 Toyota 4 Runner had a shudder @ 45 miles an hour. I talked to a transmission shop and they suggested buying a bottle of Shudder Fix at O’Reillys and using that along with changing the tranny fluid and filter. Haven’t had a problem since. They do get a glaze on certain tranny parts over time. Hope this helps and good luck with your repair. | |||
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His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm. |
Your car is probably old enough that it has a plain old dipstick and tube for checking/filling fluid with no special tools or procedures. | |||
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Irksome Whirling Dervish |
I drive a '16 3.6 OB. On Outback forums this is the POA for your problem. Pull the codes from your car with our favorite OBD scanner. While it can be the torque converter, it likely is the valve solenoid. This is a replaceable part with a good indie shop that works on Subies. Don't go to the dealer for this because all a dealer does is replace parts. The last time someone on the Subie forum talked about a similar problem, it was a $13k quote for a CVT and labor. Subie of America offered no assistance. I had my CVT replaced at 52k miles due to a known issue of a leaking pump housing. SOA only allowed the dealer to replace the CVT and the $6k cost, at the time, was covered under warranty. If you go to an indie shop, insist on genuine Subie CVT fluid and don't let them put in a universal CVT. This topic gets beat to death on the Outback forum and even indie mechanics who post, insist and tell people to use the OEM fluid. There is one fluid for the 2.5l CVT and a different one for the 3.6 CVT. I'd first pull codes and see what you get. That will start you on the path since most all solenoid failures throw a certain pattern of codes. There will be more than one that you'll get. As an alternative, you can get used CVTs for relatively cheap but they are somewhat of a gamble. However, it might be worth it since the cost of a new CVT is much more than the value of your car. | |||
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Thank you Very little |
IF you want to DIY the job this poster has fully detailed the procedure from a Subaru forum. https://www.subaruoutback.org/...3-14-outback.496317/ | |||
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Shaman |
Sounds like the 3 clutch pack is worn down. I've built a few automatics now and they're not rocket science. Had to make a couple of tools. He who fights with monsters might take care lest he thereby become a monster. | |||
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Raptorman |
Repair it before it starts slipping. The instant it starts slipping, it will just smoke it all from all the debris being pumped through it. Replace the torque converter, even with a soft parts kit install because it has a clutch in it too and you can't get all the debris out of it. ____________________________ Eeewwww, don't touch it! Here, poke at it with this stick. | |||
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Wait, what? |
Thanks for all the replies gang. I’ve learned that taking it to the stealership is not an option. I’ll be looking for a local shop that does nothing but transmission work. Its actually a small comfort that it only occurs in one gear transition as it insinuates it isn’t a component wide issue. “Remember to get vaccinated or a vaccinated person might get sick from a virus they got vaccinated against because you’re not vaccinated.” - author unknown | |||
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