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Picture of Censored
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quote:
Originally posted by az4783054:
quote:
Originally posted by Censored:
quote:
Originally posted by ensigmatic:
I've read in the past it's good to put it up on jack stands, too, to be nice to the rubber. Don't know how much truth there is to that.


I looked at putting my 911 up on jack stands for the winter, but read on the 911 forums (Rennlist) that it was not a good idea. I am probably just going take the tire pressure up to 50 PSI (normally 47) and put some carpet padding under the tires. A friend tried those plastic anti-flat blocks with his AWD 911. When he was pulling up on them he had to a give it a little gas and shot two of the blocks across the driveway into his daily driver. No damage, but it was a little scary.


Do you run 47#psi in your tires on the street or is that just for storage?

50#psi might be maximum printed on the tire but that's pretty high by modern standards for optimal street wear.


Agreed it sounds high. Tires are 305 30 ZR19. Porsche calls for 47PSI. The car does not go out when the temp is lower than 45 degrees (type of tire does not perform well when too cold.
 
Posts: 2223 | Location: United States | Registered: February 13, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of sigcrazy7
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I parked my 1974 F250 in one of my shops in the summer of 2001. I put 1oz of SeaFoam per gallon of gas in it, and dosed it 2oz of Stabil per 5 gal of gas. I only meant to have it there for a year. As things go, one year became nearly twenty. Two months ago I took over a battery, poured a little gas in the carb, and it fired right up. The truck ran like a champ. Stabil is good, SeaFoam is even better, both is best IMO.

I backed it into the shop in its spot again. Probably only for another year or so. Wink



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Posts: 8221 | Location: Utah | Registered: December 18, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of 2012BOSS302
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I do a full tank. I put in sta-bil, drive to mix it up and get it in the fuel lines and through the injectors. 40 psi in the tires, put on a battery tender. I do not start it at all while stored, unless it's a nice dry day and I am able to drive it for about an hour.




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Posts: 3795 | Location: Idaho | Registered: January 26, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I fill up both my pickup and convertible with real gas, disconnect the negative lead and leave ‘em for winter. 6 months later I reconnect the battery, check tire pressures and go. Never had a problem. My garage averages about 25° over winter.



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Posts: 4235 | Location: Saddlebrooke, Arizona | Registered: December 24, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Full tank of Non Ethanol gas and Pri-G, it's worked for me for years. Used to use StaBil until I learned better.


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Posts: 3856 | Location: WNY | Registered: April 11, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by calugo:
quote:
Originally posted by ensigmatic:
I've read in the past it's good to put it up on jack stands, too, to be nice to the rubber. Don't know how much truth there is to that.


False and no real benefit so not worth the effort. My boat and trailer sits for 6+ months when it's to cold to take it out and I've never had the tires deform or develop a flat spot. When I deployed overseas for 7 months my car and truck sat unmoved while I was gone, no issues with the tires on either vehicle.


Depends on the tires I guess. I had a Ford Camper Special pickup that weighed 6,000 pounds empty (yes I weighed it) It would flat spot the 8 ply tires with 50 lb of air in them in a few days (not radials) but no permanent damage was done as they would smooth back out... but it would shake your teeth out until they get hot again. My jeep's tires do this as well to a lesser degree.



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Posts: 4130 | Location: Middle Tennessee | Registered: February 07, 2013Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I may be in a different position than OP but here is my recent regimen. A Corvette engineer this year has said that due to the construction of the fuel sensor it is better to store with 1/4 tank of gas fortified with Stabil. Something to do with alcohol affecting the upper section of the sensor. Some folks have had issues with the fuel gauge staying on full after storage and it takes several applications of Techron to get it working properly in the Spring. This may not apply as the C7 has dual fuel tanks and some sort of electronic sensor. I was always in the camp of full tank and Stabil but am trying the 1/4 tank method this winter.
I also overinflate tires by 5 lb and correct when the car comes out. Using the battery tender that came with the car.



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Posts: 2892 | Location: See der Rabbits, Iowa | Registered: June 12, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have parked my Chevelle every winter for 20 years and have never done anything different to it. Some years I have had to put a battery charger on it, but it starts right up.



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Posts: 1448 | Location: Independence MO | Registered: January 17, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I keep my boat with 100 gallon tank under 1/4 full with Stabil. So far no condensation issues. It gets filled in the spring.
 
Posts: 17901 | Location: SE Michigan | Registered: February 10, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My Camaro gets parked for months at a time during the Winter. I fill it with ethanol free fuel and that is it. I do start it and let it run for 10 minutes or so every 4-5 weeks. If my driveway is clear I will run it back and forth several times to get fluids moved around.
 
Posts: 7074 | Location: Craig, MT | Registered: December 17, 2010Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by MNSIG:
Full tank with Sta-bil, put it on a Battery Tender and leave it. I don't think just starting it and letting it idle helps anything. My Corvette and boats sit like that for at least 6 months out of the year. No problems at all.


If an engine hasn't been run, acids built up in the engine will collect on bearing surfaces and journal surfaces, and can lead to pitting and corrosion. Acids are normal byproducts of blowby in any combustion engine, and the primary reason that oil should be changed not only on a mileage, but a calendar basis. One of the reasons for starting an engine and running it to operating temperature, which is more than just to idle temperatures, is to remove moisture that has condensed and run down the case walls into the oil.

Running the engine also circulates oil through areas which may be devoid, and which may be exposed to corrosion. The exception is an engine which has been properly prepared for long term storage, which will include removing spark plugs and putting preservative oil in each cylinder, and a dehydrator plug in place in each cylinder.

Fuel can gum up pumps, filters, lines, carburetors, injectors, etc, if allowed to sit for long periods, and the purpose of products like STABIL is to reduce that degredation; it's only placed in the tank, untreated fuel is in the system. It can gum floats in carburetors, fuel pumps, etc.
 
Posts: 6650 | Registered: September 13, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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