I'm currently rebuilding the leaking pump assembly on my dads 1960's vintage Hein Werner WS for him. He bought it new from Montgomery Wards I believe.

He paid someone to do it once, about 20 years ago. They did it twice and it has never stopped leaking.

As a result of their liberal application of a pipe wrench and ill fitting screwdrivers, I've had to find and replace the pump plunger, plunger guide, all the plugs some other misc. parts and the soft parts I was originally planning to replace.

They were also kind enough to seal all the threaded openings with a sealer that hardened into the consistency and color of the dark Titebond wood glue which I had to chip off and pick out of the threads.

Now that I've gotten it apart, I'm curious how to correctly seal the reservoir tube. Part number 5 in this diagram: https://www.hcrcnow.com/upload..._floor_jack_11.5_ton

The tube is straight sided. One end sits in a groove in the pump body, the other end butts up against the top nut. There are no gaskets illustrated, but clearly I need to seal the ends to prevent leakage and I presume a non-hardening sealer will make my life easier next time I do this.

Anyone have any recommendations?

Thanks.

I’m no help, but I did learn about hydraulics when I was in the service....the take away was that if it’s not leaking oil....it’s empty.


I’ll see myself to the door now.

I had luck finding parts/information for an obsolete hydraulic jack through this vendor...

https://www.blackhawkparts.com/

Hein Werner, Ajax, Lincoln, Walker, Snap-On, I heard they were all made by the same company to the same specs. A rebuild kit seem to fit all the major professional-series jacks.

The local jack shop wanted $350 to rebuild my 1960s Ajax; I sold it for $50 to a guy who drove 400 miles round-trip to get it.

Had many good times over three vehicles; nothing beats a professional-series floor jack. My advice is that if you canot do it yourself, eventually drop it off at a shop which specifically does hydraulic and pneumatic repairs. Around here, the shop is in the gritty industrial area of a town adjacent to Chester PA. Same spot since the early 1900s.

There was one tool I did not have, forgot which, maybe a ten-ton press plus the bushings. Also I did not have the experience to know what, exactly, I was looking at.

I've finally got all the parts I need from three different suppliers, I just need to know the best approach to seal the reservoir and what to seal it with as it has no gasket or seal, but will need to be sealed.

All in including tax and shipping, I'll be at about $300 for parts. WAY more than I wanted to invest, but my dad could not replace this jack with an American made unit for anywhere close to $300. I was originally hoping to get away with the $40 soft parts kit, but things snowballed from there.

After paying this job done twice already with zero satisfaction, I took on the job for my dad because frankly, I don't trust a shop to do it right.

A good hydraulic shop will have an O ring that can fit in the groove in the block. The other end may use the same O ring if it is retained somehow in the “top nut”. On the other hand there may be a groove in the top nut for the O ring. Then the O ring would be a bit smaller (to seal against the inside of the tube).

Looking at the exploded view in general, they don’t have ANY O rings on their list. In that case they likely didn’t use any. They used compressible rubber type washers (seals).

Since the reservoir isn’t a pressurized component, you could use a permatex type hydraulic thread sealant on both ends of the tube. Just be sure the tube ends and their mating surfaces are clean and smooth. A little sealant and some reasonable torque and you should be fine.

If you look at about minute 2:30 they dont use an o ring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nuabGfX48s . I realize it is not exactly the same as yours but shows no seal needed.

I rebuilt a late 80’s or early 90 version Lincoln more than a decade ago that was leaking. The only issue was determining exactly which model and version to get the right kit.
I don’t recall there being any sealer involved, just various seals and a little swearing and head scratching at times.
Mine was bought new so I wasn’t having to deal with a butcher job from a previous repair attempt, just normal aging.

Very cool project. I remember years ago my dad pointing to a jack and saying those are rebuilable. It was in his backyard. Later I hauled it out, started cleaning it up. It's the same one you have. Hein Werner WS. Ran into a few problems trying to get rusty bolts off. Then I found the exact same one on Craigslist a short drive away. It's in better shape and it works. So now I have one and a half in my garage. Someday I'll get to that first jack. Good luck with your rebuild! They are worth it.

I have one just like these. It's been in the family since the 1950s.


Here it is working in 1957 working under one of Dad's prize winning Continentals.

quote:

Originally posted by Chris42:
A good hydraulic shop will have an O ring that can fit in the groove in the block. The other end may use the same O ring if it is retained somehow in the “top nut”. On the other hand there may be a groove in the top nut for the O ring. Then the O ring would be a bit smaller (to seal against the inside of the tube).

Looking at the exploded view in general, they don’t have ANY O rings on their list. In that case they likely didn’t use any. They used compressible rubber type washers (seals).

Since the reservoir isn’t a pressurized component, you could use a permatex type hydraulic thread sealant on both ends of the tube. Just be sure the tube ends and their mating surfaces are clean and smooth. A little sealant and some reasonable torque and you should be fine.

No hydraulic shops in my area of operation, good or bad.

The groove in the pump body is very shallow. If there ever was a seal there originally, it would have been something thin like gasket paper. I do have some gasket paper, and I was thinking of making a couple of test gaskets and wiping both sides with some gasket sealer to see what happens.

Top nut is totally flat on the underside.

quote:

Originally posted by triggertreat:
If you look at about minute 2:30 they dont use an o ring https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3nuabGfX48s . I realize it is not exactly the same as yours but shows no seal needed.

Similar idea for sure. I guess it could be oil tight dry, but I'm not super optimistic.

quote:

Originally posted by RR:
Very cool project. I remember years ago my dad pointing to a jack and saying those are rebuilable. It was in his backyard. Later I hauled it out, started cleaning it up. It's the same one you have. Hein Werner WS. Ran into a few problems trying to get rusty bolts off. Then I found the exact same one on Craigslist a short drive away. It's in better shape and it works. So now I have one and a half in my garage. Someday I'll get to that first jack. Good luck with your rebuild! They are worth it.

Lots of parts other than the rebuild kit are no longer available. Don't wait too long.

quote:

Originally posted by Hamden106:
I have one just like these. It's been in the family since the 1950s.


Here it is working in 1957 working under one of Dad's prize winning Continentals.

Those Walkers are nice. I was just talking to a seller on CL about one the other day as I can use a long jack. Had it been the 3 or 4 ton version instead of the 1.5 ton model, I'd be rebuilding two jacks right now.

quote:

Originally posted by M1Garandy:
I've finally got all the parts I need from three different suppliers, I just need to know the best approach to seal the reservoir and what to seal it with as it has no gasket or seal, but will need to be sealed.

Sorry, I did not read your post carefully enough. I definitely do not have the experience but did a lot of research ten years ago. The shop did wack me on a universal joint but I convinced myself that taking apart the hydraulic tube was beyond me. The tube may have developed a flaw which I'd be unable to recognize.

These folks are sure to know: https://www.garagejournal.com

The owners of this forum have a sense of humor. This logo is 'named' The Jalopy Journal

quote:

Originally posted by Woodman:

quote:

Originally posted by M1Garandy:
I've finally got all the parts I need from three different suppliers, I just need to know the best approach to seal the reservoir and what to seal it with as it has no gasket or seal, but will need to be sealed.

Sorry, I did not read your post carefully enough. I definitely do not have the experience but did a lot of research ten years ago. The shop did wack me on a universal joint but I convinced myself that taking apart the hydraulic tube was beyond me. The tube may have developed a flaw which I'd be unable to recognize.

These folks are sure to know: https://www.garagejournal.com

The owners of this forum have a sense of humor. This logo is 'named' The Jalopy Journal

No worries, I appreciate the help.

I've been checking out the Garage Journal for years, maybe I should finally sign up.

On another note, I'm curious how long I need to soak the leather cup in oil to soften it up enough to slide into the tube without shaving off some off the leather.

I would second the GJ forum. There is a member there named Highball who works on these old jacks and can help you out.

I think I found a solution to my sealing issues on the website of one of my jack part suppliers: https://www.hcrcnow.com/images...tal_Sealing_2021.pdf

I've got some super weatherstrip adhesive already so I think I'm set.

quote:

Originally posted by M1Garandy:
I think I found a solution to my sealing issues on the website of one of my jack part suppliers: https://www.hcrcnow.com/images...tal_Sealing_2021.pdf

I've got some super weatherstrip adhesive already so I think I'm set.

Good find!

Looking at the diagram and the design of the piston it appears that no seal is required between item 5 and the block. It looks like the ID of item 5 is dry and that is why there is no seal. It looks like item 5 is a space and protective housing. Perhaps not?