Did a little more tinkering today. First thing I did was take the air filter and housing off and sprayed the carb down when some carb cleaner, gave it a good bath, and let it evaporate off while I cleaned some leaves up.

After putting it back together it again started right up and actually ran quite a bit longer than it has been… perhaps 10 minutes or so. It did seem to be running a bit rough, but it ran a lot longer indeed. Here is a video link

So I’m thinking the running rough seen may be the fuel. I haven’t drained it yet as I wanted to see how it ran after making only one change at a time. The fresh pre-mix fuel will be my next step, I think.

I did pull the plug boot off and the wire felt stiff and brittle… more than I think it should. The plug wire is part of the coil assembly and not a separate part?

quote:

Originally posted by PeteF:
Since its an older saw, any rubber part is suspect, age, drying out, ethanol damage etc.

Possible issue fuel line, even a pin hole could cause issues

https://youtu.be/JjQouxSr1n8?si=uf3Q0rOTJxpSDK-S

And a how to replace
https://youtu.be/2Sh90_ax9K8?si=ZLCa-PtcV5yBNJOz

Thank you for these links, I’ll watch them later on today!

Tried the premix fuel and it actually died sooner than it has been. Thinking the fuel wasn’t the issue.

I think given the “crunchy” feel of the ignition wire I’m going to go ahead and do a new coil.

I always add Sea Foam to the gas to clean the lines and carb.

Pull the plug and crank to see if the spark is strong.

I was recently watching a Chickanic vid on repairing a 40 year old 025 WB, and she got it going by getting rid of the old style ignition for a more updated one. It was good as new after that.

quote:

Originally posted by ftttu:
I was recently watching a Chickanic vid on repairing a 40 year old 025 WB, and she got it going by getting rid of the old style ignition for a more updated one. It was good as new after that.

I just went and found it... it was an O28 WB... not sure how much different that is.

I've been looking for a ignition module and not sure if I need the $60 oem replacement part or if an aftermarket $10 part is good enough? I have no idea about the viability of aftermarket parts for small 2 stroke engines...

I have used the $10 part with no problems. I like the old 011 and 012 for their light weight and cutting power.

I order parts from England:

https://www.diyspareparts.com/...l/group/augersdrills

Neither here nor there, but I’m interested in this thread since I’m a new Stihl chainsaw owner. I’ve been watching videos on use and maintenance while preparing for it, and that’s how Chickanic’s videos popped up into my queue.

I’m up in the big leagues now moving up from my Harbor Freight Portland 14” corded electric to this new Stihl MS 182 C-BE. I’ll be cutting with the best of y’all before long!

I ordered a selection of parts from Farmertec including fuel line, air, fuel, and oil filters, ignition module, and carb rebuild parts. I don't know that it needs most of that but I'll start with the ignition module and go from there. Anything not needed now may be needed in the future.

As you are disasembling the saw, check for loose screws by the ignition coil.


I had a problem with a leaf blower coil, the screws had loosened and the gap was no good. I regapped it using a business card. Tightened the screws and it ran fine afterwards.

Very cheap fix

I never heard of Farmertec so I looked them up and it is Chinese. Has anyone used them before?

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
I never heard of Farmertec so I looked them up and it is Chinese. Has anyone used them before?

I was lead to them after seeing them mentioned across several different forestry-type forums when trying to research the viability of cheaper aftermarket parts. Like most goods the consensus seemed to be the Chinese stuff was a little hit or miss and not for professional use, but for occasional light use it is probably fine.

A similar chines ignition module was about $10 on amazon but for $19 ($33 with shipping) I ordered a module, plug, carb, carb kit, filters, oil line, fuel line, chainsaw wrench, and T27 driver.

Certainly not going to be tremendous quality but it will be a fun project.

$33 for all of that package is a bargain. It is hard to get Stihl parts around here because nothing is stocked so they charge you shipping.

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
$33 for all of that package is a bargain. It is hard to get Stihl parts around here because nothing is stocked so they charge you shipping.

Or a waste if it is all junk... We shall see!

Chinese carbs are hit or Miss, some worked others not so well and bit the bullet for factory carbs.

Running rough at idle vs. at full power? The carb passageways for fuel at idle may be different, and in the case of my generator carb were challenging to clean.

quote:

Originally posted by ftttu:
I was recently watching a Chickanic vid ...

She HATES premixed fuel , especially Tru-fuel.

She goes on and on about how it often causes problems... and says no one should use it.

She has repaired small two stroke engines for a living for years so she should carry some weight... she has a vid, or multiple ones about it.

quote:

Originally posted by 41:
$33 for all of that package is a bargain. It is hard to get Stihl parts around here because nothing is stocked so they charge you shipping.

It seems the package has been drop-shipped directly from China, so it might be a while before I can try out anything.

quote:

She HATES premixed fuel , especially Tru-fuel.
She goes on and on about how it often causes problems... and says no one should use it.

Interesting...
I've used the Stihl branded pre-mix that comes in a small can. I think it's a quart.

I usually buy a gallon of no-ethanol and mix with oil myself. If you use fuel with ethanol, don't let it sit for more than a month...

I would get some Sea Foam at Walmart and mix 1/2 Sea Foam and half fresh gas...just couple ounces under no load conditions. I do that each spring to clean the carb. It will SMOKE!

quote:

I usually buy a gallon of no-ethanol and mix with oil myself. If you use fuel with ethanol, don't let it sit for more than a month...

I dump the gas out or run the saw until it is dry. On the lawn tractor, the gas line can be completely plugged if it sets over winter with ethanol gas.