Take it to a machine shop.

I had a Honda CB350 with the exhaust pipe studs broken off. I took it to a big local machine shop and $80 into the job they asked me how much more I was willing to spend to complete the job. I paid the $80 and picked it up and took it to a little machine shop and the owner called me 2 hours later and said it was done. The bill was $15 As I remember he said he used a portable drill and diamond bits. He said it was easy.

Since the bolt isn't broken off flush, use one of these to grasp it and turn it out. https://mayhew.com/product-category/stud-extractor/ You will also need some heat. A propane torch isn't hot enough. Possibly, a MAPP torch might be. You really need an oxy-fuel torch. Heat the part, not the bolt, so the metal expands away from the bolt. But use caution, as aluminum doesn't give off visual cues for heat. Hold it on too long, and it will just melt. You might want to crunch the numbers, including whatever your time is worth, and see if simply replacing the part might be better.

I am in the marine industry and second the machine shop route.

If doing it yourself, you're going to need an acetaline torch and to get it super hot then spray with penetrating lube a few cycles......then heat it and try to remove.

That being said, why on earth would you remove the jet pump housing? it has nothing to do with your overheat situation. Water is simply forced through the hose to the motor from the pressure from the impeller. You either have a blockage somewhere OR a bad temperature sender......I'd be leaning towards the sender. 10 seconds isn't enough time to get a waverunner motor hot. You can run them completely dry for 2-3 minutes before you'll get an overheat alarm.

Me I'd drill them out. But that really depends on how you value your time and skill. Any good shop can do it quickly as once you have it to the point you can take it somewhere you can put it on a mill and its trivial.

quote:

Originally posted by Texas Bob C.:
Take it to a machine shop.

I work in a machine shop. I recommend this.

quote:

Originally posted by Mustang-PaPa:
Removed the oil then soak it in break fluid. This eats away the aluminum corrosion. Old trick learned many years ago.

I am puttin' this one in my pocket.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
…why on earth would you remove the jet pump housing? it has nothing to do with your overheat situation. …You either have a blockage somewhere OR a bad temperature sender......I'd be leaning towards the sender. 10 seconds isn't enough time to get a waverunner motor hot. You can run them completely dry for 2-3 minutes before you'll get an overheat alarm.

Um, maybe because I was trying to eliminate the easiest and most likely point of a potential blockage in the open loop cooling, Captain Condescending? The next likely culprit would be the thermostat in the closed loop cooling circuit is stuck partially open allowing enough coolant to flow on the 8 minute idle out to the lake without triggering an alarm, but not enough to flow when I got on the throttle. The thermostat has been sitting in the same pool of coolant for six years or better. Unfortunately, getting at the thermostat requires removing the water pump which requires draining the coolant and oil. The coolant is straight forward, but the oil requires a pump and hose down the dipstick tube, which I have, in Florida.

The proper way to do the job is to CAREFULLY drill out the old bolt to the tap drill size and retap the threads.

More than one size drill should be used. The key is to drill the center of the bolt so as to not damage too much of the original thread in the aluminum.

This is exactly what the machine shop will do.

Bob

Jimmy is right, it will take an acetylene torch to get the aluminum hot enough. If the jet ski was used in saltwater, heat may not be enough. A milling machine would be much better than a drill press. With machining costs, it would probably be cheaper to buy a new part.

To drill it out, mill off the stub. Carefully align a centering drill, then follow that with a regular drill bit, slightly undersize. Try to pick out the remnants of the stainless threads. Might have to drill oversize and install a Keen-Sert or Helicoil.

For drilling stainless, use low speed but high feed pressure.

quote:

Originally posted by c1steve:
… A milling machine would be much better than a drill press...

That mirrors what the guy at the machine shop said when I dropped it off this morning.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

quote:

Originally posted by c1steve:
… A milling machine would be much better than a drill press...

That mirrors what the guy at the machine shop said when I dropped it off this morning.

Good man!

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:
…why on earth would you remove the jet pump housing? it has nothing to do with your overheat situation. …You either have a blockage somewhere OR a bad temperature sender......I'd be leaning towards the sender. 10 seconds isn't enough time to get a waverunner motor hot. You can run them completely dry for 2-3 minutes before you'll get an overheat alarm.

Um, maybe because I was trying to eliminate the easiest and most likely point of a potential blockage in the open loop cooling, Captain Condescending? The next likely culprit would be the thermostat in the closed loop cooling circuit is stuck partially open allowing enough coolant to flow on the 8 minute idle out to the lake without triggering an alarm, but not enough to flow when I got on the throttle. The thermostat has been sitting in the same pool of coolant for six years or better. Unfortunately, getting at the thermostat requires removing the water pump which requires draining the coolant and oil. The coolant is straight forward, but the oil requires a pump and hose down the dipstick tube, which I have, in Florida.

I'm not trying to be condescending, simply honest. You can see in the jet pump opening with a flash light.

I will try to help you. Did it run correctly the last time it was run? If it overheats in 10 seconds it's not hot, it's a temperature sensor. It would take over 2 minutes to overheat, even if it's run with no raw water cooling it at all.

Also try running it on the hose, this back feeds everything on the saltwater side if there is any debris/sand in there, see if it overheats then. It's also possible you picked up debris idling down the canal and it dropped off when you shut the motor off. Did you try going fast a minute after it warmed up (but not overheating) to see if it still overheated? A slight blockage on the raw water side will cause it to overheat at slow speeds but not at hot.

1. Are you sure it's overheating and not just a bad temperature sender? Did you check it with an infrared gun. I would put it in the water, and run it while attached to the trailer, give it some throttle, shoot the thermostat housing with an infra-red gun, both sides of the heat exchanger etc.......

2. Then Drop the coolant, run a coolant flush in it on the hose, drop that, then just run straight water (only to diagnose it) and see if it's still overheating. Other things I would check, pull the hoses off of your heat exchanger (after dropping the coolant), shine a flashlight through it, or even blow a garden hose through it, and see if it's blocked either on the raw water side or the coolant side (I've had both sides cause an overheat). Also check your raw water exhaust riser as that too can get plugged and cause an overheat.

If you haven't removed every ounce of 6 year old fuel, do that as well and put fresh ethanol free fuel in.

This isn't the first time I've heard of this problem in marine applications. Why don't they put thread inserts in these aluminum parts if they know they will be submerged in water, especially salt water?

First, thank you to everyone who stuck to the topic at hand, getting the bolts unstuck, while offering advice. Hopefully the machine shop will call me today. I really do appreciate it.

For that one guy that didn’t stick to the topic:

Three times now, it has run fantastic for 8 seconds then gone into limp mode. That 8 seconds occurs after an 8 minute idle from the boat ramp, down a tannin stained river, and out past the shallow part of the bay. Once in deep water, I hit the throttle it comes up on plane, runs smoothly, then goes into limp mode, emits a continuous screech, and says Hi-Temp. I shut it off, wait a bit, start it back up, and idle back to the ramp. The first time out, I ran it into the shallow sand/muck area near the river mouth. It was my first time through there this year, overcast, tannin stained dark water, and I didn’t see the depth change. The river’s current carried me into it further as well. I flushed it when I got home and it seemed to flush normal, but using the flush port bypasses the raw water intake. When the ski did the same thing the second and third time I took it out, I figured the raw water intake might be jammed up give my shallow water excursion.

Now onto the raw water intake. You cannot see it by shining a flashlight anywhere. The impeller/prop blocks the view from the engine side and the Venturi nozzle and steering nozzle blocks the view from the other side. The engine management section of the shop manual says to refer to the cooling section of the manual if the ski emits a continuous beep and says Hi-Temp. The cooling section says to refer to the pump section to find out how to inspect the raw water intake. That section says the intake is in the impeller housing and shows a picture of a rectangular plastic piece imbedded in the housing after the impeller/prop. At this point, I didn’t see anyway to get at it than removing the pump. The first bolt I tried turned a half a turn before shearing. I was using a 6-8 inch long 3/8 ratchet, gradually applying more force until I thought it was loosening.

That’s how I got to “That being said, why on earth would you remove the jet pump housing? it has nothing to do with your overheat situation.” None of which has anything to do with the problem at hand which I asked for help with, getting the bolts out of the housing. I wanted to spare people the boring story of how I got to that point. What I wrote above is only about 40% of the story even.

Your question is condescending. I followed the shop manual. Your next statement “nothing to do with my overheat situation” is just plain wrong. It’s the very first place to look for a blockage. Your flashlight comment is wrong. I’m the one lying on my back on the concrete driveway shining the flashlight around while crap falls in my face. I’m the one trying to use the tools I have on hand to get the job done knowing the nearest hardware store is a 40 mile round trip. The machine shop is a 50 mile round trip and I feel lucky for that. The first two would have been closer, but they went out of business last year. The next one is a 100 mile round trip.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
This isn't the first time I've heard of this problem in marine applications. Why don't they put thread inserts in these aluminum parts if they know they will be submerged in water, especially salt water?

It seems there should be a way around this, right? In my case, the machine was used in saltwater 5 or 6 times. It was flushed according to the manual every time and then I sprayed the entire jet pump, steering, and reversing assembly as well. Anti-seize was mentioned, but the shop manual specifically calls for thread locker to be used on these bolts. When we bought it, the prevailing advice at the time was Sea Doo made a good freshwater machine and buy Yamaha for saltwater. The Sea Doo has a closed cooling system for the engine though, while Yamaha does not.

The real problem for me is that the machine is 16 years old with 36 hours on it. Had we used it more, there are parts that would need replacing and those bolts would have been removed before they had became stuck to get at those parts. It’s a long boring story as to why it didn’t get used
more. Getting it running again by doing as much of the work myself as I can will be much less expensive than a new machine. My kids are also learning from the experience. How many kids today have touched a supercharger, intercooler, or a jet pump and can see how they work? They are also learning that self-reliance gets you so far, but at some point, you need a professional, aka, A man’s got to know his limitations.

I once took the lug nuts off a tire, then spent the next two hours trying to get the tire/rim free from the drum. And I hardly ever drove that car in salt water. Steel and aluminum just love each other too much and don't want to part ways.

In my machine shop we use stainless heli-coils for aluminum using stainless bolts.

For our waterjet, any stainless threading uses a product called Blue Goop.

When you get your part back and if it has a stainless heli-coil you can use blue goop to stop any galling.

Our standard repair would be to drill out the stud and put in a stainless heli-coil. The Blue Goop is a Swagelock product and is magic for stainless to stainless threaded connections. On large machines where taking the part to a machine shop is not possible you can get by with a hand drill and hand tap if you have a steady hand.

Swagelock Blue Goop

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Morgan:
In my machine shop we use stainless heli-coils for aluminum using stainless bolts.

For our waterjet, any stainless threading uses a product called Blue Goop.

When you get your part back and if it has a stainless heli-coil you can use blue goop to stop any galling.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
This isn't the first time I've heard of this problem in marine applications. Why don't they put thread inserts in these aluminum parts if they know they will be submerged in water, especially salt water?

At the factory they just put parts together, with little or no anti-seize or grease. If the newly purchased item is partially disassembled and then the fasteners are greased, most future problems are eliminated. Why the items are not prepped correctly in the beginning? I suspect 1. the factory is in a hurry and they do not care. 2, the manufacturer sells more replacement parts at a huge markup.