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01 2.2l 4 4cyl with 88k miles. Still the old pushrod motor, not the ecotec. Doesn't seem down on power, but it never had much. Will cruise @ 65easy enough. It doesnt smoke, still got 24 mpg at last fill up. Does drop noticeably when it's cold, like 19-20. Leaks from the front main seal and valve cover too. It sat for a long time before I got it (had 44k in 2016). Doesn't smoke, so I'm hoping it isn't the rings. Been told to check injectors for stuck open or leaking injector, MAP sensor, fuel pressure regulator (contained in fuel filter because GM engineers are idiots), plugs to see if a cylinder isn't firing. Any suggestions... I can do basic stuff, but I'm outta my depth here. Only vehicle, so I'm still driving it. Can't really have it sitting at a shop for a week. A Perpetual Disappointment... | ||
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Speaks Bendablese |
What is your average use like? Short trips? | |||
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A Grateful American |
I would pull the injectors (they are buried and will require effort to remove plenum, brackets and harnesses to get to them. When you get them exposed, use some carb or brake clean to clean the outside and put "dots" on them, one dot on #1, two on #2 etc. Then pull each injector, connect to the corresponding wiring connecter and place the harness and injectors in a something acting as a catch basin, then have someone turn the ignition on but do not crank. You should get fuel pump prime (pressuring/purging the fuel rail), and either no fuel from the injectors or a quick "prime shot" (like a snapping sound and a squirt from all injectors). If any injectors squirt during the pump priming/purging (continual and several seconds) that indicates a bad injector. If that occurs, swap the bad injector(s) with one of the good injectors, and repeat, to see if the problem follows the injector or not. If you have more than one squirting when it should not, you should check (replace) the filter(s) from tank/pump to the injectors and replace all the injectors. Pull the plugs and take good pics and post back on all of this. Don't worry with the regulator or MAP sensor yet. You should be able to post year/make/model of the vehicle in YouTube to get the gist of removal instructions for the injectors. Make sure you have a good fire extinguisher and "fire guard" in addition to someone to help. Be mindful of working in the garage if you have someone in the car cranking. And if you feel it is over your head, get knowledgeable assistance. (I am an overly cautious person, thank the USAF safety folks...) "the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" ✡ Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב! | |||
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Member |
I’d try a good injector cleaner first. Lucas is my go to. _____________________ Be careful what you tolerate. You are teaching people how to treat you. | |||
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Member |
Check engine light on? If so, any of the major auto parts will scan for free. I have the same engine and had a bad fuel pressure regulator. Ran really rich and set a code. New filter/ regulator fixed it. Pricey filter though. | |||
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That rug really tied the room together. |
Um, change the oil! First things first. If it’s really bad, change the oil every 2000 miles (or less) until you get it sorted out. It will ruin a camshaft if it has too much gas in the oil. ______________________________________________________ Often times a very small man can cast a very large shadow | |||
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Member |
Cylinders have 3 sets of rings. Cars smoke because 1) Coolant leak into the cylinder- white smoke (Usually from a blown head gasket), 2) Oil leak into the cylinder - Blue smoke(Usually from a stuck/broken ring). And the white smoke is much different than the smoke you see on a cold morning. Gas in the oil only gets there because of the rings. Either too much gas from broken injector or the combustion is not optimal. You state the car runs well, gets good MPGs except when it's cold. That doesn't sound like an injector to me. So. I'd check the plugs and look for signs of the fuel being rich or the plugs being old and potentially not giving the right amount of spark. If you're not sure, just change them, they're a couple of bucks a piece. But I come back to the car not getting good MPGs when it's cold. I'd troubleshoot a stuck ring. There are steps you could follow and put some Marvel's mystery oil in the cylinders to see if you can lubricate a stuck ring but it sounds like that might be a bit more than you're willing to take on. It's a few hour project (mostly sitting around while the oil soaks) and perhaps you have a friend who could help. Or a friendly shop that won't gouge you. Good luck! Hedley Lamarr: Wait, wait, wait. I'm unarmed. Bart: Alright, we'll settle this like men, with our fists. Hedley Lamarr: Sorry, I just remembered . . . I am armed. | |||
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Partial dichotomy |
I think this is good advice. If you don't want to lay out a bunch a money and given the age of the vehicle, I'd just change the oil a little more often. If you don't actually see the oil level rising I think you'll be okay. | |||
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Member |
Do a compression test along with what’s suggested above. Also, does the vehicle do a lot of idling? Demand not that events should happen as you wish; but wish them to happen as they do happen, and you will go on well. -Epictetus | |||
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Member |
Compression test will only give you a partial picture of what's going on. A cylinder leakdown test should be the first step. If the results of that look OK, then delve deeper into the investigation. | |||
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delicately calloused |
Shaql and 64dodge have it pretty well covered. And do change that oil. You’re a lying dog-faced pony soldier | |||
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