An outside faucet on each external foundation wall.

Are you on city water or well water? If on city water and have a sump pump consider a back up pump, one that runs off city water, siphon type.

I went with James Hardie siding and trim boards. Only a year and a half since it was completed, so we will see how durable it is.

Just refinished the exterior of our home. For the sides and back went with cedar shingles, for the front used James Hardie products, their version of shingles as well as their board and batten products.

On exterior I would consider some unswitched circuits for floodlights/cameras. I'm changing out some floodlights with Ring Floodlight Cameras, which have motion detectors to turn on the lights (at night) and to activate the camera. But if I happen to turn off the switch that was controlling the exterior lights, then my lights (and cameras) are dead in the water.

I'm going to either hardwire on at the switches, or use some switch covers that keep you from turning them off-at least I've been told these exist. If I was starting from scratch I'd have unswitched power at the eaves for the floodlights/cameras.

quote:

Originally posted by shovelhead:
An outside faucet on each external foundation wall.

Are you on city water or well water? If on city water and have a sump pump consider a back up pump, one that runs off city water, siphon type.

Hot and cold outside faucets. It’s nice not to freeze when you wash your car, or ATV, or mower.

- can you check the wiring plans? Do not assume there will be a plug in the hallway for the vacuum etc.
- 100% def get a 20a home run in the garage near the outer door. Add another near the back wall if you can swing it. (Around here code only called for a single 15a gfi circuit for the garage plus tbe outside plugs; not enough juice for me.
- can you upgrade to a 300amp panel within reason? 200 is probably standard, but maybe even 150. As mentioned above; regulations with EVs, electrical appliances etc. will put a strain on a 200 in the future and kill a 150 right quick. Upgrade now is probably cheap compared to retrofit in the future. Even if you don’t need it; it will help resale
- dedicated 20a HR in the basement
- chest high recessed outlet in the wall where you can mount tv is slick
- extra plug in the utility closet for water softener, air cleaner etc? Again, code might only call for a single 15a GFI for a whole unfinished basement (totally worthless in my case, a real PITA to run a circuit down there after the fact)
- a switched outlet over the kitchen cabinets. With this already in place it is very easy to run under/over cabinet lighting.
- planning on a deck? I would run a 15a to a junction box nearby now and at least pre wire for flood light in the eves.
- big open great room? A Recessed floor plug is nice to light up an end table and plug in phone / laptop

Sorry, one more: prewire junction box inside bathroom vanity cabinet with switch on wall oriented towards the door…. Does not have to be dedicated circuit. Then you can install a motion detector switch and low voltage light under the cabinet at foot level; great for midnight potty break and you don’t want to get blinded by the vanity lights or wake anyone else up and not stumble or pee on the floor.

Have each bathroom countertop receptacles wired on individual circuits instead of a single circuit to service all bathroom counters.

Thanks guys, great suggestions. Also thought of lights in the crawl space.

This may not be what you are after, but, get a few boxes of extra siding. At some point in the future you will need to replace sections due to repair or modifications. What should be simple becomes a real pain in the ass when the manufacturer discontinues a product or color and you cant match existing siding.

Hardi board & batten.

A larger electrical panel than present needs, maybe an empty conduit from the panel to garage area for easier future use.

Extra outside faucets and outlets, 6x6 gutters instead of standard 5x5 most builders would use (very little cost difference, they look much better and handle a lot more water).

Communications cables from outside meter area to utility room/closet and to anywhere inside it might be needed.

Any LED fixtures should have replaceable bulbs.

I prefer handicap height toilets, at least in the master bath.
Also larger CFM exhaust fans.