quote:

Originally posted by sigmonkey:
^^^

Yep.

Jegs has a small head distributor that will work.

Jegs Distributor

I don’t see a vacuum or centrifugal advance mechanism on that one. Those newer style systems used the ECM to control advance.

Look at this distributor as an option.

(Sorry. My lame assed joke may have found its way in front of trying to assist you.)

This message has been edited. Last edited by: sigmonkey,

Two ways of increasing the distance between the distributor. One would be to loosen the engine and transmission bolts and attempt to move it forward. That would be the "correct" way, I suspect that there should be some fore and aft movement available. This will probably involve some adjustments to accelerator linkage and transmission linkage.

Second way, slight reworking of the firewall while utilizing a block of wood, a ball peen hammer or a combination of both. This method will not require any linkage adjustments.....(obviously)


It is up to you which method to utilize.

quote:

Originally posted by shovelhead:
Two ways of increasing the distance between the distributor. One would be to loosen the engine and transmission bolts and attempt to move it forward. That would be the "correct" way, I suspect that there should be some fore and aft movement available. This will probably involve some adjustments to accelerator linkage and transmission linkage.

Second way, slight reworking of the firewall while utilizing a block of wood, a ball peen hammer or a combination of both. This method will not require any linkage adjustments.....(obviously)


It is up to you which method to utilize.

Probably choose the hammer method for now. lol.

Nothing wrong with method #2. That is the method that I would employ. Attempting to shift the engine and transmission is too much work..........

I've used the hammer method before, first time was during the installation of a 383 Chrysler into a '54 Chevrolet. A "slight" reworking of the firewall together with the removal of two vertical braces using a hammer and a cold chisel as the compressor tossed it's internals the previous weekend.

I decided to tap out and not attempt this particular project replacing the cap and rotor and wires I could have handled, but after looking at the working space of the plugs I never would have extracted 4 of them from behind the headers. I would have had to unbolt the headers or buy a special socket. A socket was half the price of an hour of time at the mechanic so I just brought it to him. Also figured this was a good time for him to see the car for the first time and get acquainted.

He knocked out the work I wanted done, adjusted the carb, adjusted the timing, and slightly rerouted the heater core supply. It was sitting directly on fuel supply line near the carb and was causing fuel in the front bowl to boil off out the breather. Good catch on his part.

However, the lock cylinder, which has been acting up, is now locked up. He managed to get it started for me to drive home and then handed me my keys with the car running. Lol. It won’t start again as it won’t turn to crank.

I just ordered a replacement cylinder kit with door locks (one of those will turn with anything that fits in the slot). Only about &18 on Rock Auto.

I’ll probably try this one myself. I think the hardest part will be removing the steering wheel, right?

I asked him about fixing the leak in the timing chain cover. He shook his head and said just keep putting oil in as needed until there was a better reason to pull the engine as that is the only way to drop the pan to do the fix. $600. Ouch. He suggested to not even bother with oil changes now since I put a quart in on a regular basis, suggested to just change the filter. I’ve never considered it but I suppose the filter is above the pan level and there won’t be a ton of leakage if removed prior to draining the pan, right?

On the ignition lock cylinder, Oh Hell No! Not unless you have access to a lock plate tool. Removing the steering wheel is easy, what goes on underneath it is where the SHTF.

When you pull your steering wheel off, you will see a plastic cover plate under the wheel, under that there is a steel plate with "u" shaped cuts all around the outer edge. That is the lock plate for the steering column lock, when you turn the ignition to "lock" a pin comes up and through one of the notches, locking the steering column.

In the center is the steering shaft, beneath the lock plate. Under that is a coil spring that puts tension on the lock plate. There is a wire clip that snaps into a groove in the shaft, this holds the lock plate to the shaft. They come out usually ok without the tool. Now when you need to install the plate you have to hold the shaft stationary, compress the coil spring under the lock plate and then while the plate and spring are compressed install the snap ring. Pretty much impossible unless you have a lock plate tool, most mechanics have one, some of the hot rod shops like Speedway sell them, twenty buck range.

Without that tool it can be done but it's probably easier shoving a wet spaghetti up a wildcat's ass. I've installed that ring without the tool in an emergency situation, it takes two people and a lot of swearing to accomplish it. IIRC we had to finally wedge the steering shaft in the column so the rag joint would not flex, one of us had to compress the lock plate and that damn spring while one of us had to install the ring. Definitely too much work but in an emergency you do what you have to do.

Once you get past that, make sure you have the correct lock cylinder. There are two designs, mid year change in 1978. The first design from 1969 to 1978, lock bowl is diecast metal and the cylinder is retained by a small vertical bar at the end going into the column that is spring loaded. To remove this, there is a small slot in the die cast lock bowl, you have to break through the thin metal flashing with a small screwdriver and push down on the spring bar while pulling the lock cylinder out. Installing it is just push the cylinder down until it snaps into place.

If your lock cylinder does not have that little bar on it and the one you have has a small hole about midway and a u shaped notch on one side, you have the wrong cylinder, that is a second design 1978, designed to be used with two retaining screws instead and a plastic lock bowl, not interchangeable with your cylinder. Well, it kinda is, it will slip into the lock housing (bowl) but no way to retain the lock cylinder.

Your timing cover can be removed without removing engine. Remove all oil pan bolts except the two rear ones, but loosen, now pull down front of oil pan about an inch and remove timing cover. I've done many without removing pan. Don't settle for just keep adding oil. Also you can get a new timing cover that has the bottom inner flange removed to make assembly easier. Summitt racing and Jegs has them... I'll try and get a link for you.....

There are a couple of cheap tools you need to replace the lock cylinder.
With the tools it is not too hard. I replaced the one in my parents 85 suburban when I was in junior high so it can't be that difficult.