I’m not driving nearly as much as I used to, so I’ve been thinking about a time based maintenance schedule that will extend the life of our cars. After doing some research, here is what I came up with.

Oil + Filter: every 12 months
Coolant: every 24 months
Brake Fluid: every 24 months
Transmission Fluid: 36 months
Rear Diff Fluid: 36 months
Transfer Case: 36 months
Power Steering Fluid: 48 months

The clock doesn’t really run on the last 4 absent driving, but getting into the habit of changing them is not a bad idea. If any have a filter, change with fluid every time.

What did I miss?

Clean the Mass Airflow Sensor with MAF cleaner like once a year. I did that on my truck I bought used, and got about 2 MPG gain average just with that.

It's a pretty easy thing.

The oil change every 12 months is good, but I think you're using, let's say, an overabundance of caution on the rest of those items. The transmission and other fluids aren't really affected by infrequent/short-trip driving. I would add the following inspections every so often: tires for dry-rotting (they oxidize faster with less driving); and under the hood, especially in the air cleaner box and under engine top covers, for vermin nests.

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Originally posted by egregore:
The oil change every 12 months is good, but I think you're using, let's say, an overabundance of caution on the rest of those items. The transmission and other fluids aren't really affected by infrequent/short-trip driving. I would add the following inspections every so often: tires for dry-rotting (they oxidize faster with less driving); and under the hood, especially in the air cleaner box and under engine top covers, for vermin nests.

Agreed. I think you are unnecessarily blowing some money if you aren’t racking up miles.

Also, what about the front diff and any grease zerks? You may not have either on your vehicle. Air and cabin filters, too.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
The oil change every 12 months is good, but I think you're using, let's say, an overabundance of caution on the rest of those items. The transmission and other fluids aren't really affected by infrequent/short-trip driving. I would add the following inspections every so often: tires for dry-rotting (they oxidize faster with less driving); and under the hood, especially in the air cleaner box and under engine top covers, for vermin nests.

30,000 miles would probably be safe for the transmission fluid and following w/o regard to time, as long as levels are kept topped off. But the clock runs on coolant and brake fluid whether the car is driven or not, so I think every 2 years for them is important.

Good question and topic.

Wiper Blades, every 12 months or so, depending on where you live and the climate, if vehicle is garage kept or parked outside.

Check the spare tire air pressure every 6 months!!!!!!!! (Mine was flat when I needed it )

Make an entry on your list for license plate renewals as well as insurance verification forms, and that they are in the proper place. Mr. Police Person is not amused when you have to dig around wasting time.


I do a thing I call Maintenance Monday. You can pick a different day, Maintenance Monday just has a nice ring to it. Or First Monday Of The Month. Whatever. Make a written list that you can pull out, or print out, and use.

Check all fluids, tire pressures, under hood general check, lights, look under vehicle for fluid leaks, etc etc etc.
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What kind of vehicle(s)? Some have needs specific to that model.

Both of our vehicles (CR-V and a Colorado) tell me when to change out the oil, filters, etc. All computer controlled based upon our driving conditions. Works for me.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
The oil change every 12 months is good, but I think you're using, let's say, an overabundance of caution on the rest of those items. The transmission and other fluids aren't really affected by infrequent/short-trip driving. I would add the following inspections every so often: tires for dry-rotting (they oxidize faster with less driving); and under the hood, especially in the air cleaner box and under engine top covers, for vermin nests.

I agree with this and I’m anal about my vehicle maintenance. Unless you have a high performance car like a Porsche or Ferrari where brake fluid changes are every 2 years most vehicles can go much longer than you’ve indicated.

I would suggest you look at the Severe Service Maintenance Schedule for your vehicles and follow that...

The intervals sounds about right for some-most brands, early for others. But check your owners manual as it should have a time and miles chart for everything.

I'm assuming we are talking actually driven not stored. Like jimmy123x says every brand of car and truck I own has both time and mileage lists.
In the case of the vehicles I own that don't get serious mileage the time limit on oil is 6 months and if you are really driving I would follow that one. The others on your list I would follow the mfg. time limit if it exists but if not I would consider them mostly excessive. Assuming we aren't talking a diesel and/or one of the special coolants 36 months would be considered the earliest for a glycol coolant. Assuming we aren't talking towing or anything unique transmission fluid at 60 months would be fine, again assuming you don't go over a mileage limit like 30K. It doesn't wear out. Assuming you have synthetic fluid in the rear end I certainly wouldn't change it any more often that 60 months, and probably wouldn't change it at all. Brake fluid on a normal car I certainly wouldn't bother as well but technically 24 months is a pretty good interval. It just is excessive for any normal use and probably just a waste of money. I have never seen any mfg. chart that recommends changing the power steering fluid. Mostly what I would worry about rather than all the fluids (except oil) would be anything that has rubber in it. Do you have cam timing belts for example? Belts and hoses. that kind of stuff.

I would start the vehicles every other day and let it run for a minute or 2 and if possible drive around the block.

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I would start the vehicles every other day and let it run for a minute or 2 and if possible drive around the block.

Worst thing you can do for a vehicle. It will not heat up enough to burn off the moisture created by the condensation. all you will do is add water to the fluids and the exhaust system which will rapidly cause it to corrode.

The drainage from the battery for the start will most likely not be replaced. If the vehicle is going to be started running it for 15 minutes or longer will be needed.

If the vehicle isn't moved at all, prepping the gas with a good conditioner such as Stabile or Seaform and a Battery Tender will take care of most issuers.

I put the battery charger on both of ours every month or so.

I have a Jeep Liberty I bought new in May 2003. It is my only vehicle and I have less than 55K miles on the clock. Do the math and see that I only put an average of about 3K miles a year on the Jeep. I still follow the maintenance schedule in the owner's manual. I do change the engine oil (Mobile 1) @ 5K miles regardless of the season or how much time has past. So far so good and it's been 18yrs.

EDIT: I'm on only my third battery. Currently an Optima Red Top. I've changed the Transmission and drive line oils once each. Coolant once but may be getting close to the second change. Since I only drive the Jeep once or twice a week, I often check fluid levels under the hood. Not that I need to top them off often, just for peace of mind. I have had to replace dry rotted vacuum lines but not lately. Even got check engine codes when all it was, was a vacuum line. I check the air in the Michelin tires every month or so.

quote:

Originally posted by rscalzo:

quote:

I would start the vehicles every other day and let it run for a minute or 2 and if possible drive around the block.

Worst thing you can do for a vehicle. It will not heat up enough to burn off the moisture created by the condensation. all you will do is add water to the fluids and the exhaust system which will rapidly cause it to corrode.

The drainage from the battery for the start will most likely not be replaced. If the vehicle is going to be started running it for 15 minutes or longer will be needed.

If the vehicle isn't moved at all, prepping the gas with a good conditioner such as Stabile or Seaform and a Battery Tender will take care of most issuers.

Agreed. It’s best to start it and drive it for 30 minutes or so to get all of the fluids up to temperature every 2 weeks. Highway seems the best. Starting it for only a couple of minutes will promote condensation.

Those of you who have low mileage cars need to keep an eye on the tire's age.

They do rot out and will still look but but they are not. They will blow out easily.

Tires have a Date Code on them. You can google that and get a better understanding. And BTW when you buy tires ask them to show you the date code on all 4. I would not want new tires that are more than 6 months old.

I take manufacturer maintenance recommendations with a grain of salt - many intervals are too long in my view. Just look at what BMW did with its intervals when it started including maintenance on new cars. All the intervals got longer!

One other observation- if you buy new or lightly used cars and sell in 5ish years or less, none of this matters. The manufacturer schedule (or less) will likely get almost anything through the first 5 years of a car’s life. I’m focused primarily on vehicles that will be kept 10 years or more.

What blows my mind are folks with newer cars that either don't follow any regular maintenance schedule or don't believe in preventive maintenance and then complain that their cars keep breaking down