Striker in waiting
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| | | Posts: 16350 | Location: Maryland, AA Co. | Registered: March 16, 2006 | 
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quarter MOA visionary
| Depends on how deep they are.
Assuming clearcoat > yes?
you might need to use fine sandpaper if very deep > 1000/1500/2000 grit first.
If not try a cutting paste in various strengths.
I have purchased a small scratch kit from the auto parts store that has a slightly rougher cutting paste along with a small tube of lighter/polishing paste.
Then just rub it out.
I start with something like that first.
YMMV ~ Good Luck |
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| 'If' the scratches do not go through the clearcoat, they can likely be buffed out, or at a minimum, lessened in severity. I would however recommend that work be performed for you by a very experienced detailer given there will be a fair amount of cutting of the surface required to get beneath the scratches, and if not done carefully, you could end up with a bigger problem than you have now. I've detailed cars for many years and am quite adept with both a rotary and a DA buffer, but even I will shy away from doing work like this if the damage to the surface is substantial. Luckily there is a local guy who is an absolute magician with wet sanding and a rotary buffer I can send people to for that type of 'correction'.
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Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter
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| I bought a Meguiar's complete car care kit off of Amazon for about $40 a while back. It came with a "Scratch x2.0" paste. You use a soft towel and slowly work the product. I was very impressed that it removed the scratches in the clear coat completely. The main thing I used it on was damage where ski edges bumped into the rear corner panel of my Outback. It was very noticeable at first but once I took some time (maybe 30 mins) slowing working it I was amazed with the results. Couldn't tell anything ever happened. |
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| Check out the Autogeekonline forum. Lots of very good info there. Always start with a test spot, roughly 2x2' to determine you're seeing the results desired before correcting the entire car. Always start with the most mild compound or polish that you think will work. Removing swirls is removing clear coat, so you don't want to take off anymore than necessary.
Like guns, Love Sigs
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| | | Posts: 1232 | Location: Battle Born | Registered: December 26, 2009 |
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Little ray
of sunshine
| quote: Originally posted by bigdeal:
'If' the scratches do not go through the clearcoat, they can likely be buffed out, or at a minimum, lessened in severity. I would however recommend that work be performed for you by a very experienced detailer given there will be a fair amount of cutting of the surface required to get beneath the scratches, and if not done carefully, you could end up with a bigger problem than you have now.
I've detailed cars for many years and am quite adept with both a rotary and a DA buffer, but even I will shy away from doing work like this if the damage to the surface is substantial. Luckily there is a local guy who is an absolute magician with wet sanding and a rotary buffer I can send people to for that type of 'correction'.
Take this advice. Go to someone who really knows how to do this. It is far easier to make the problem worse than you can possibly imagine. Power tools, abrasives, and paint - a recipe for disaster. Even the average auto detailer won't do this job right.
The fish is mute, expressionless. The fish doesn't think because the fish knows everything. |
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| As noted, start fine. And start manually--no tools. Use a polish to see if that works. If not, try rubbing compound, then a polish (again, manually). If all that fails, see a professional if you do not have a DA buffer. |
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Knowing is Half the Battle
| quote: Originally posted by FN in MT:
Truck hasn't been washed in a year...Then You use a brillo pad....Now you really care to remove scratches? Excuse me.
Its not my truck, it accumulated what I think was power plant soot on it, or some sort of other hard to remove gunk. Every time I am home I've tried washing it to little effect. I realize in hindsight the Brillo wasn't adviseable, but the scratches are from the Brillo, not dirt being rubbed. I asked for solutions not condemnation. I know how to take care of cars, but its hard to wash a car from 6 hours away. |
| | | Posts: 2649 | Location: Iowa by way of Missouri | Registered: July 18, 2002 |
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| You're going to have to high speed buff it. I'd recommend trying 3M finesse first and see if that removes them. If not you want to go to a heavier compound and work your way up in 1 area to see, you don't want to go to too heavy of a compound if you don't need to. If you're not familiar with using a buffer, get someone experienced. You can easily buff right through the paint. You want to go slow (on buffer speed), on my Makita I never go above 3 on the speed. |
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