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Knowing is Half the Battle |
Let's say "someone" was trying to scrub some very heavy dirt residue from truck paint that hadn't been washed in a year and a Brillo pad was used...leaving fine scratches, not through the paint. Picture the type of scratches you get from driving through tall brush. I have a power buffer. What/how is recommended to get these fine scratches off? Any recommended products? The scratches are on the roof and hood of a 14yr old pickup truck. | ||
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Striker in waiting |
Here you go: https://www.griotsgarage.com/c...olishes+compounds.do -Rob I predict that there will be many suggestions and statements about the law made here, and some of them will be spectacularly wrong. - jhe888 A=A | |||
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quarter MOA visionary |
Depends on how deep they are. Assuming clearcoat > yes? you might need to use fine sandpaper if very deep > 1000/1500/2000 grit first. If not try a cutting paste in various strengths. I have purchased a small scratch kit from the auto parts store that has a slightly rougher cutting paste along with a small tube of lighter/polishing paste. Then just rub it out. I start with something like that first. YMMV ~ Good Luck | |||
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Member |
'If' the scratches do not go through the clearcoat, they can likely be buffed out, or at a minimum, lessened in severity. I would however recommend that work be performed for you by a very experienced detailer given there will be a fair amount of cutting of the surface required to get beneath the scratches, and if not done carefully, you could end up with a bigger problem than you have now. I've detailed cars for many years and am quite adept with both a rotary and a DA buffer, but even I will shy away from doing work like this if the damage to the surface is substantial. Luckily there is a local guy who is an absolute magician with wet sanding and a rotary buffer I can send people to for that type of 'correction'. ----------------------------- Guns are awesome because they shoot solid lead freedom. Every man should have several guns. And several dogs, because a man with a cat is a woman. Kurt Schlichter | |||
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| Member |
I bought a Meguiar's complete car care kit off of Amazon for about $40 a while back. It came with a "Scratch x2.0" paste. You use a soft towel and slowly work the product. I was very impressed that it removed the scratches in the clear coat completely. The main thing I used it on was damage where ski edges bumped into the rear corner panel of my Outback. It was very noticeable at first but once I took some time (maybe 30 mins) slowing working it I was amazed with the results. Couldn't tell anything ever happened. | |||
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| Member |
Check out the Autogeekonline forum. Lots of very good info there. Always start with a test spot, roughly 2x2' to determine you're seeing the results desired before correcting the entire car. Always start with the most mild compound or polish that you think will work. Removing swirls is removing clear coat, so you don't want to take off anymore than necessary. Like guns, Love Sigs | |||
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| Knowing is Half the Battle |
These are mostly in a straight line. The "someone" will probably work on the roof first as it is not noticeable. This of course is my dad's truck. The problem becomes he won't take it to a professional, even if the "someone" pays. The "someone" is 6 hours away. The "someone" will be there this weekend but and will take a crack at it himself. The "someone" can't get the truck away from him to take it to a professional. | |||
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| Little ray of sunshine  |
Take this advice. Go to someone who really knows how to do this. It is far easier to make the problem worse than you can possibly imagine. Power tools, abrasives, and paint - a recipe for disaster. Even the average auto detailer won't do this job right. The fish is mute, expressionless. The fish doesn't think because the fish knows everything. | |||
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| Member |
As noted, start fine. And start manually--no tools. Use a polish to see if that works. If not, try rubbing compound, then a polish (again, manually). If all that fails, see a professional if you do not have a DA buffer. | |||
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| The Constable |
Truck hasn't been washed in a year...Then You use a brillo pad....Now you really care to remove scratches? Excuse me. | |||
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Member |
I ask that you consider a learning experience for someone that provides money sufficient to pay a professional detailer. The challenge is high, and the risk of further damage equally high should someone work on the problem. The best outcome for the truck is a professional repair. It is vitally important to avoid letting anger over damage to paint damage a relationship. ------- Trying to simplify my life... | |||
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Happily Retired |
Shoot, there are a lot of good products on the market nowadays. Years back that was not the case. If you have a decent DA polisher, give it a go. .....never marry a woman who is mean to your waitress. | |||
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| Member |
If it's truly not through the clear, assuming there's a clear coat, a glaze compound with a good buffer will probably take them out. May have to start with a fine cutting compound then glaze/buff out. I've gotten pretty good with my big rotary buffer, granted I started practicing on company vehicles that were in bad shape paint wise. The fear of messing up my own vehicles not being there really helped take the worry factor out. I still lack at sealing the "fresh" paint when done. Need to research into that a bit more. | |||
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| Knowing is Half the Battle |
Its not my truck, it accumulated what I think was power plant soot on it, or some sort of other hard to remove gunk. Every time I am home I've tried washing it to little effect. I realize in hindsight the Brillo wasn't adviseable, but the scratches are from the Brillo, not dirt being rubbed. I asked for solutions not condemnation. I know how to take care of cars, but its hard to wash a car from 6 hours away. | |||
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| Member |
You're going to have to high speed buff it. I'd recommend trying 3M finesse first and see if that removes them. If not you want to go to a heavier compound and work your way up in 1 area to see, you don't want to go to too heavy of a compound if you don't need to. If you're not familiar with using a buffer, get someone experienced. You can easily buff right through the paint. You want to go slow (on buffer speed), on my Makita I never go above 3 on the speed. | |||
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| Knowing is Half the Battle |
I gave it a whirl this weekend first hand rubbing with Turtle Wax Polishing Compound as it looked to be the lightest available at Wal-Mart at 10pm on Saturday night. That took care of a fair amount of it. I then used it with the $30 Black & Decker handy buffer with a terry pad and that helped it a bit. It was getting late after that so I just put on some liquid wax, as it hasn't been waxed in its 14 or so years on Earth and called it a night. Its much less noticeable, but its still there. I'll need to go with something more aggressive with some more time to take care of it, but it looks better than a Earl Scheib 50/50 paint job. Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. | |||
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