Regular 3/4” plywood will work just fine with enough cross supports.

I like to double or triple certain spots by adding 1’ square pieces from the underside. I like to clamp equipment to mine so I can remove it after use.

If you have the time... and are adventurous .... go to a used lumber yard and find a 36" solid core wooden fire door....best table top you can find.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Does the surface have to be completely flat (like for casework construction)? If not, then I'd buy a bunch of basic 2x6 lumber, pass it through my table saw to get a straight/flat edge on one side, and then glue and screw them together to make a top. Maybe finish the final top up with a bit of belt sander work to remove any high spots. That should be cheap and easy to fab up and easy to replace anytime down the road as need be.

I did this with 2x4s and a beechwood sink cabinet from Home Depot. If you're patient you can flatten it with a hand plane. I put it together in a weekend, and in 2-3 evenings I had it as close to dead flat as my skill level would allow using a #6 plane and a straight edge.

Were I to redo it (and I will) I'd use hard maple or poplar. The price per board foot isn't that much greater, but it's way stronger. I have to glue a maple runner on the end of the bench so it will stop stripping out the screw holes for my vise.

quote:

Originally posted by bigdeal:
Yeah, you'll feel just peachy when you over cut a board and eat into one of those recommended $100+ butcher block tops.

Yeah, you have got to be more careful with those tops.
I was given one from a kitchen tear out and love it but it still gets dinged up and I have a roll of butcher paper attached when if I paint.

$208 for that piece you were looking at is WAAAY to expensive. You can build that out of readily available stuff available at any store that sells hardboard and plywood. Around here, Lowe's would help you load it up.

Use finish grade plywood for the top, and or the bottom, with a piece of 3/4 plywood sandwiched between. Glued together would support a hell of a lot of weight. And could easily be turned over if the top got too beat up. If desired a "stringer" could be run down the middle of the bottom for added support.

I would think you'd get some sagging with a 72" span even doubling up the plywood.

Might be overkill, but have you thought about building a Torsion Box for the top?

This is what I used for my man cave. I bought two of them and they were each 72" long. That was 3 years ago and they were $275 each. It was definitely money well spent because it's super strong, smooth, durable and looks fantastic.

Spend a few bucks on something nice if you plan to have it for a while. I little money spent now and you will have a much nicer work surface for the rest of your life.


https://www.amazon.com/gp/prod..._title?ie=UTF8&psc=1


The description is below:
Ash Butcher Block top is kiln dried, sanded smooth and finished with a penetrating oil protectant. A heavy duty, good-looking top at an affordable price. 13/4" thick top has rounded front safety edge to protect workers.

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:

quote:

Originally posted by DaveL:
I used a sheet of 3/4 red oak plywood ripped in half lengthwise then glued together. It’s very stable and can be flipped over if one side gets too beat up. I had the guys at HD rip it on their track saw then squared it up with a router and flush trim bit after lamination. Super easy and cheap.

Can you tell me how you glued them together, what type of adhesive, and how you kept them pressed together while it cured ?

I used Titebond II wood glue spread evenly with a small foam roller. I set the pieces on two folding tables, applied the glue to one side of each, then flipped one on top of the other. I then used clamps to hold the pieces together while the glue cured (that's why I used the folding table, so I could get clamps around the edges). You could also use 1 1/2 inch screws or a couple of ratchet straps and some 2x4s to hold it together if you don't have clamps.

quote:

Originally posted by DaveL:

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:

quote:

Originally posted by DaveL:
I used a sheet of 3/4 red oak plywood ripped in half lengthwise then glued together. It’s very stable and can be flipped over if one side gets too beat up. I had the guys at HD rip it on their track saw then squared it up with a router and flush trim bit after lamination. Super easy and cheap.

Can you tell me how you glued them together, what type of adhesive, and how you kept them pressed together while it cured ?

I used Titebond II wood glue spread evenly with a small foam roller. I set the pieces on two folding tables, applied the glue to one side of each, then flipped one on top of the other. I then used clamps to hold the pieces together while the glue cured (that's why I used the folding table, so I could get clamps around the edges). You could also use 1 1/2 inch screws or a couple of ratchet straps and some 2x4s to hold it together if you don't have clamps.

Yep, just screw them together as you go with 1 1/2 screws. Much faster and the end result is just as good.

I have had great luck using 8' countertops from the bargain bin at big box stores for three workbenches now. Build a frame and lay it on top, secure with screws and/or glue.

Bonus for having backsplash to keep stuff from rolling off or back into gap by walls. Super easy to clean up from time to time too.

i tore apart an old oak desk and use the top over a couple of horses for a movable/set up anywhere work bench

quote:

Originally posted by Patriot:
I used two sheets of 3/4 premium plywood. Added a top sheet of high density hardboard. Then trimmed around sides.

I did the same thing in 1973. It has followed me around and is still perfect. I may have to apply a new sheet of tempered Masonite in 20 years or so.

I used one of the pre-fab countertops from Home Depot for mine. Nice and solid, a little roll on the edge to keep thins from falling off and a back splash at the rear that does the same. Works great.

My fathers work surface is 2x4 on edge side by side the full width. Good and solid.

While plywood, solid core doors or solid lumber can be done by the average guy, I highly recommend using a laminated top for the most lasting surface. I've made my own in the past but considering the time and materials involved, and unless a customer wants (and it willing to pay) for something exotic, I use pre-laminated tops from Grizzly Industrial. Various sizes and prices that are affordable for those wanting to build a solid bench.

I tried to post a link but it's NO JOY, Google Grizzly Laminated Tops and you'll get the information.