Looking to using approx 1 or 1-1/8 inch plywood to span 72 inches from steel workbench supports on the ends. Do you think 72 inches of birch plywood 1-1/8 could span without sagging ? Here is what I'm trying to do without spending so much money:

https://www.grainger.com/produ...-Workbench-Top-3MKH8

I don't want to build a wooden workbench because of the necessary bulk required for weight and stability, and I can buy the prefabricated steel understructure cheaper than I can build a wood understructure.

https://www.grainger.com/produ...?findingMethod=lists

I was thinking about a solid core wood door, but if I rip or crosscut it to fit (72x30in), I will lose the end grain solid wood banding, which giv es much of the door its stiffness, as the core is not regular solid wood but a type of composite.

Other ideas would be just gluing up 2x6 dimensional lumber for a worktop, but I'd prefer a laminated or engineered surface. And I'm not sure a 2x6 solution wouldn't sag after time.

I can think of more elaborate homemade ideas, but the expense would exceed just buying a workbench top.

I'm not interested in prefab steel bench tops, I just like wood. Butcher block tops are out of the question and too expensive for this garage bound workbench.

Won't be keeping lots of weight on the top, it will be a worksurface only.

Why not just run a couple 2x4s under it, attached to the framework?

Does the surface have to be completely flat (like for casework construction)? If not, then I'd buy a bunch of basic 2x6 lumber, pass it through my table saw to get a straight/flat edge on one side, and then glue and screw them together to make a top. Maybe finish the final top up with a bit of belt sander work to remove any high spots. That should be cheap and easy to fab up and easy to replace anytime down the road as need be.

25 years with a 2x6 worktop. No sagging in sight. A workbench is meant to work not be pretty. Want a nice smooth top? Lay some 3/8" mdf on top of 2x's, replace as needed.

I built all of my benches using solid core doors for the top. I covered them with melamine attached using contact cement, and trimmed with a router.
These work great and won't sag!

quote:

Originally posted by PeteF:
25 years with a 2x6 worktop. No sagging in sight. A workbench is meant to work not be pretty. Want a nice smooth top? Lay some 3/8" mdf on top of 2x's, replace as needed.

That sounds pretty interesting. Does your 2x6 surface span 6 ft unsupported or is it supported in the middle ?

If there is a habitat for humanity or a reclaim store nearby check it out and see if they have any old wood counter tops or solid core doors.

You only live once. Be the envy of all your friends and neighbors.
Costs no more than a few trips to the range but it will last a lot longer. Much nicer than plywood, 2x's and doors. May even be cheaper.

https://materialflow.com/p/Wor...iCZgacxoCbbkQAvD_BwE

I used two sheets of 3/4 premium plywood. Added a top sheet of high density hardboard. Then trimmed around sides.

Unfinished butcher block countertops.
You can find them wherever they sell cheap builder grade unfinished cabinets in your area. Floor and Decor or Lumber Liquidators type places near you will have it. Just rub it down with beeswax / orange oil butcher block conditioner keeps it looking nice and easy to clean.

I like 2x12 biscuit jointed together.

I've built quite a few using different methods. But 3/4 ply wood doubled will span 72" just fine for all but the most severe loads. If I was going to build engines on it I'd just run a doubler down the middle.

I used a sheet of 3/4 red oak plywood ripped in half lengthwise then glued together. It’s very stable and can be flipped over if one side gets too beat up. I had the guys at HD rip it on their track saw then squared it up with a router and flush trim bit after lamination. Super easy and cheap.

220-9er and Dusty have it right. There is nothing like butcher block-type tops for a workbench. Flat, solid, hard, sturdy... with character. They are the shitz!

quote:

Originally posted by DaveL:
I used a sheet of 3/4 red oak plywood ripped in half lengthwise then glued together. It’s very stable and can be flipped over if one side gets too beat up. I had the guys at HD rip it on their track saw then squared it up with a router and flush trim bit after lamination. Super easy and cheap.

Can you tell me how you glued them together, what type of adhesive, and how you kept them pressed together while it cured ?

quote:

Originally posted by wrightd:

quote:

Originally posted by DaveL:
I used a sheet of 3/4 red oak plywood ripped in half lengthwise then glued together. It’s very stable and can be flipped over if one side gets too beat up. I had the guys at HD rip it on their track saw then squared it up with a router and flush trim bit after lamination. Super easy and cheap.

Can you tell me how you glued them together, what type of adhesive, and how you kept them pressed together while it cured ?

I've made tops that way too ~ all you need is wood glue and some clamps or just use screws.

I have used butcher block for a couple of desks for my daughter and also solid core doors for my desk. Both work fine, but i like the butcher block better. I am picking up a 36" by 72" one from Menards this week for a new workbench. They are $199, less 11% rebate this week.

It's cheaper than the Grainger one, but I don't know if anyone else sells them that cheap or not.

quote:

Can you tell me how you glued them together

Today's structural adhesives don't give a hoot about this application. go to lowe's, HD etc. and pick one. they all will work fine. Put the two panels together and put something on top, won't matter what. Heck regular white glue will be fine.

quote:

They are $199, less 11% rebate this week.

OK that's like $180 or so. I'm sure it will be great looks wise. But you can do this with a sheet of plywood ripped in half (for free) and glued with structural adhesive for like $44 ($36 for 4x8 sheet and 8 for structural adhesive)

Yeah, you'll feel just peachy when you over cut a board and eat into one of those recommended $100+ butcher block tops.