I know we have resident experts here. I’ve had a Fort Knox
Safe before. No question, it’s top quality
For top price, sold it when we moved.

Now. Need another. Fort know has a significant price increase from 3 years ago, 25
Percent in my AO.

Before I take that plunge again. Looked around and found this, seemed
Interesting.

https://www.secureitgunstorage...n-storage/gun-safes/

Curious on others opinions. Nice enough collection that need to be secured.

Appreciate it as always.

safes are rated by UL. Decide what level of security you want and go shop for that. Not rated then probably pretty minimal protection or at least you don't know.

A lot of fluff. Claiming to have built stuff for the military, pooing pooing the UL and fire rated safes to hype up his safes that appear unimpressive..

Not sure what you’re looking to spend but American Security Products has been highly recommended. They have quite a few different sizes and model lines.

Looking at the link you provided, I see a $999 Agile Model 52 Pro. At 101lbs, it’s a cabinet that doesn’t have enough steel in it to provide any security.

If you want security, start with the AmSec BFII gun safes. Most of them have 1/2” steel doors and 5/16" of steel in the bodies.

I have a AMSEC and a Champion never any issues.
It would be hard to judge a safe unless you put it through its paces, I hope I never do.

I don't exactly get that comment since the UL puts anything that gets submitted through its paces. So you know. We should all get TRTL60x6 but nobody has that much money so we settle for less. But you can at least know what less is.

Put it through it's paces. You are misinformed.

UL cert is a racket and IDGAF if an otherwise solid product lacks a UL label. It means someone got extorted. That's IT.

Sorry, knee-jerk there, gotta get that checked.

AmSec

quote:

Originally posted by armored:
I have a AMSEC and a Champion never any issues.
It would be hard to judge a safe unless you put it through its paces, I hope I never do.

It's not hard at all for most gun safes. Most gun safes are made from well known materials: steel and drywall. There's no mystery behind cutting either. You can do it with an angle grinder, reciprocating saw, jig saw, or even a circular saw with the right blade. Most of those are available as convenient, portable, and powerful battery operated tools.

Those tools are not allowed in the tests for the UL's Residential Security Container ratings. They are allowed in the testing for real safes. There's a reason AmSec's UL TL30×6 rated CFX252016 weighs about the same as their UL RSC-1 rated BFX7240 which has 6 times the interior volume. I can't find it right now, but I swear I read that all it takes to meet the RSC-1 rating is resisting a 5 minute attempt by one UL tech armed with pry bars less than 3', hammers less than 3lbs, chisels, and a 1/2" drill.

This doesn't mean everyone needs a UL TLTRX60×6 rated gun safe, but it's important to have a realistic expectation and understanding of what a gun safe will and won't do when you look at the big picture.

Just a few big picture questions:

How secure is your home?
Do you have an alarm system?
What's the local law enforcement response time to an alarm?
How valuable are the items you'll be putting in the gun safe?
Do you have insurance for those items?
Are the items sentimental/irreplaceable?
Is someone typically home?
Do you take vacations or are otherwise away from home for extended periods of time?
Do you tell everyone and his brother what you have and when you'll be gone?

If you have a few firearms and you want to keep the kids out, then a locked cabinet is fine.

If you have have a Rolex collection, jewelry, precious metals, etc., then most gun safes are better than the sock drawer, but you really should consider something better. Especially if you are gone for extended periods of time and everyone knows it. It could be as simple as a safe deposit box at your local bank. It's not as convenient as a safe at home, but it's inexpensive and way more secure than a most gun safes.

Likewise, if your firearms bear the names Purdy or Parker, you should have a better safe.

Sturdy Safe

https://www.sturdysafe.com/

I walked into Colorado Safes in Colorado Springs and got a bit of an education. Do you want to use our delivery and setup service? I said yes. Where do you want it in the house? Basement. They said we won't put anything over 700 pounds in a basement. Something to ask about when you do decide.

The vast majority of “gun safes” are not safes at all. They have thick showy doors, but you can cut through the sides and back with a cordless saw from any Harbor Freight. They will offer some fire protection (maybe better than a real safe), and will keep out the kids, the housekeeper, etc.

And that’s perfectly sufficient for most people with a decent alarm system living in a city with decent law enforcement.

If you live in a rural area, or anywhere someone can have unfettered access to your place for some time, then you need a real safe. A real safe will keep out amateurs for many hours, even days, and will keep out pros for the rated time. It’s very unlikely you’ll be hit by a pro.

I appreciated all the responses thus far.

All of the points being brought up are valid. I have always thought FORT KNOX was amongst the best, which is why the high cost.

I was hoping something else had come along but from the responses, it seems nothing has changed.

If a professional thief wants in something,you're not gonna stop em. Retired federal employee. I’ve been to security school.

Security is relative,
It it has levels or layers, like an onion.

A $400.00 safe may stop a certain percentage of thieves,
And it may stop a higher percentage of much more qualified felons with more experiance, because they can't locate it, it's hidden.

While delivering appliances In Arizona I saw many examples of what not to do,
And a few " hidden rooms and walk in closet's that I thought were brilliant.

AmSec

I am guessing that you would likely be very disappointed going from a Fort Knox Safe to a sheet metal gun locker. My suggestion is figure out what you want or need first, then buy based on those needs/wants.

Another thing to consider is the actual value of the items that you want to keep in your safe.

I too have what I would consider “nice enough (but modest) collection” of firearms which I keep secure in a modular style safe, but there’s nothing in there that would not be relatively easy to replace, or is overly expensive or of high sentimental value.

If I had rare, highly collectable and expensive firearms in my collection, or a Faberge Egg or the like, that would be different story then wrt my investment in a safe.

Respectfully.

quote:

Security is relative,
It it has levels or layers, like an onion.

A $400.00 safe may stop a certain percentage of thieves,

I was waiting for somebody to bring something like this up, because it's a really good point that most do not consider.

Think about that $400 safe for a second. Somebody has to pay for a factory, the utilities, that material, and the slave labor to build that safe. It then has to be shipped all the way across the ocean, distributed throughout the entire US via rail/truck, and still offer a profit margin. I'd venture that the $400 safe is maybe actually a $100 safe.

Let's up that cost to $2,000.

How much of that $2,000 is the fancy paint job? How much is the "brand name" which requires expensive marketing campaigns? How much of that is the really nice interior?

These are all things that "cost money" but don't "add fire protection or security".

A $400 safe a $2,000 safe, and a $20,000 safe will all stop 90% of better of most residential burglars, as the vast majority of them never touch the safe regardless of how well it's made. They will all perform vastly differently in a fire.

Safes are tools, and there are a variety of tools with a plethora of features which may perform to your specific needs better than another. The "right safe" comes down to exactly what you are planning to store within, and what you expect it to do.