Thanks!

Okay - I'll take care of biz over the next couple of days. Then figure out what the problem is. I'll keep my OBD scanner handy in the car and check periodically for errors other than P0440.

I hope it's just the gas cap (I'm not sure I've ever replaced it. Maybe once at the most but forgotten from memory). 180K miles / 25 years old....

I had a 2000 Durango that would display codes on the odometer after some procedure I don’t remember. It was a nice feature.

I have a bluetooth obd dongle and an app on my phone to pull/clear codes.

BlueDriver works really well

quote:

Originally posted by valkyrie1:
BlueDriver works really well

I'll add another recommendation for this one.

Bluedriver works well, but is a ready-only and reset/clear only. If you do any electrical diagnosis on any vehicles you may outgrown. I'm going to try topdon topscan lite ,as a gift for my son, which is bi-directional control and cheaper. If this error is a chrysler related P0440:general evap code because it's not sure what failed. It's only going to affect mpg (minimally) and maybe your inspection, if due. Usually this is related to broken/cracked soft hose. Inspect all hoses from the gas tank to charcoal to intake manifold then check the purge solenoid. You can use duct tape to fix any hoses . It does work.

I have a dodge 4.7 and p0456 is a constant pest.

Thanks guys!

I'll drive until I find and fix the issue - sounds like there is no harm in driving w/ this error.

I'll look up BlueDriver.

Our 2012 Liberty throws a P0456 code regularly. Somewhere it has a minuscule leak in the evaporative system. I plug in the scanner, clear it and go on.

quote:

Originally posted by Gustofer:
Or we could decomputerize cars and go back to the old days. Ain't running right? It's either fuel or electrical.

Or compression. Before computers, it was always one of the three. Before HEI (High Energy Ignition), just go around the distributor pulling and replacing wires to see if you can isolate the problem to one cylinder. After HEI, a lot of folks used a test light to short their way around the cap to accomplish the same thing. Pull and read the plugs, check compression while you’re there. You’re going to have a pretty good idea what the problem is pretty quickly on the old stuff.

^^^

Back in the days of points and mechanical voltage regulators, an oscilloscope was the best thing I had and was almost like cheating.

When will auto makers just include these readers on the vehicle?

They no that shit is gonna happen ,why not just let the dam car tell you?

^^^

1987

one nice thing about the OBD2 port is you can get 12 volts from it 24/7 regardless of whether your ignition is on or not.

Well, until your battery dies

But it's a nice feature for being able to charge your phone with the car off (with the right adapter), or keep a dash cam on all the time.

Since real cigarette lighter ports are gone, it's the only power available with the car off.

quote:

Originally posted by radioman:
one nice thing about the OBD2 port is you can get 12 volts from it 24/7 regardless of whether your ignition is on or not.

Well, until your battery dies

But it's a nice feature for being able to charge your phone with the car off (with the right adapter), or keep a dash cam on all the time.

Since real cigarette lighter ports are gone, it's the only power available with the car off.

I wired a switch and a USB power port directly to the battery and mounted them to my Jeep's driver side window column. I can have power for charging my phone at the flip of the toggle switch.

quote:

Originally posted by .38supersig:
^^^

1987

If they are on cars now,
Why do people pay others to diagnose the problems?

Thanks guys.

I drove a tankful, error code did not come back. Seems like I didn't screw the cap on correctly. If it comes back, I'll get a new cap and see if that helps.

Old car - I'm still going to keep a scanner in the car. Still deciding what to get.

No codes but a new symptom. Not sure if it's related to the prior code or not.

The car seems to hesitate a little when going from a rolling stop. Not sure if I would say it's similar to a stall or not in the right gear. I'm pushing the pedal to go but there is brief hesitation. Seems like mostly when it cold but not sure yet.

Related to the prior evap code? Something new? Transmission? Fuel? Other?

Whatever it is, I hope it's not expensive. I just put a couple thousand into the car last year. I need it to last until I can pay off the house (and then save up for a car).

Any ideas?

Sounds like the transmission.

When did you last have it serviced?

I had the ATF flushed about a year ago at 170K miles. Major service - timing belt, pump, radiator, etc. Cost more than the car is worth but I can't afford a new car yet.

Transmission? Is this bad? Do I need to replace the transmission or just a minor fix / part replace? Replacing the transmission I'm guessing is in the ballpark of $3K, parts and labor. That's gonna hurt....

ETA: checked for codes for OBD and engine/transmission. Nothing. If there is something wrong w/ the transmission, would it throw a code?

Most people will point to the ATF flush at high mileage as a high risk.

Heasitation in a rolling stop? Possibly transmission related. Sometimes a transmission control module is involved, having learned your driving patterns, and creating sub-optimal shifting. If your car has a TCM, it would be worth resetting it. Most often this requires a scan tool as a servicing shop uses, not a OBD reader.

A transmission failure may offer a code. However, this is not always the case. (deep voice of personal experience)

My HD transmission alone, GM reman, was $4K two years ago. I hate to think how much these would be today.