1999 Ford F-350 4x4 Crew Cab Dual Rear Wheel.

Looking at a purchase of this truck. Has the V10 gas, heavy duty towing package, but low miles, less than 90,000.

It’s clean, no rust, looks cared for..

Anything to look for in the power plant, drivetrain, etc?

Useful modifications? It has airbags in the rear..


Cheers.

All I know is that they are gas guzzlers but the V10 is widely used and seems to be fairly reliable. I have friends that have owned them but I have never so no first hand experience from me.

Any chance of FL hurricane damage?

I have an 01 F250, except with 7.3. So I cant speak to engine, but overall I’ve been pleased with it. I recommend you inspect ball joints carefully; they’re a known weakness. The auto trans are also prone to failure, particularly if used for heavy towing. Check for evidence of goose neck or fifth wheel hitch installation. My recommendation is to build in $2500~ or so into your offer to allow for that or other unforeseen/undisclosed deficiencies.

Exhaust manifolds for nuts eaten away, broken studs and leaks. This era of "Triton" engines is known for blowing the spark plugs out of the heads because there are only three threads. I haven't seen it on the V10, but there aren't as many of them as the 5.4 V8s.

Thanks for the responses.

Owner claims 10mpg. It's not a FL truck. Not a work truck, just used for pulling around a camper. No sign of fifth wheel or gooseneck.

Found a little bit of info.

<https://www.blueovaltrucks.com/tech-articles/gas-engines/ford-6-8l-v-10-engine/>

If it is an OO truck and you feel comfortable with the history that would be a plus. What is the price?
I would feel more comfortable if it was a little newer like an 01' or newer. Think it was mentioned but the earlier version of this truck there where some bug a boo's.

A dually for pulling a travel trailer seems like overkill. If there was a 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch installed, there'd be holes in the bed and a subframe installed between the frame rails under the bed. You'll have to look underneath the truck if there's a bedliner in it.

I have heard that to change the rear plugs you have to lift the cab off the truck. Dealer charges 4 to 5 hours for that. Plugs recommend to be changed at 100,000 miles.

Not sure about this specific truck, but have helped change the plugs on a friend’s Excusion (2001 I think) with the V10. It’s a giant PITA, requiring multiple universals to get to the back plugs, no chance to torque them correctly putting back in. Power train is pretty reliable as I understand it however.

quote:

Originally posted by ontmark:
I have heard that to change the rear plugs you have to lift the cab off the truck. Dealer charges 4 to 5 hours for that. Plugs recommend to be changed at 100,000 miles.

That’s possibly why the seller wants to get rid of the truck. At this point, the plugs have been in there for 20 years and have probably corroded in place in the head. There’s a chance that they’ll ruin the threads in the head when removed, requiring helicoils to repair the head. That won’t be easy or cheap.

If the truck is a good enough deal to become involved with, I think I’d just leave the plugs in there until they start misfiring and HAVE to be replaced.

As other stated the spark plug replacement can be an issue.

If/when you do it make sure to replace the ignition coils with Motorcraft original replacements. My mechanic said he's never seen an aftermarket set last more than 30K miles, yet the Motorcraft ones are good for 100K miles. The local auto parts store wanted around $85 each for the coils but I was able to find them online for about $35 each brand new.

Other than the spark plug issues (blowing out and pain the ass to change) the V10 is a solid motor. Ford still puts them in E-Series cab chassis.

I own a 2003 V10 F250 Supercab, it has 153k on it, been super reliable, always starts no matter the weather. I get 10 mpg (4.30 gears limited slip), might get 13 mpg on a road trip. I change transmission fluid every 20k and I do not pull any trailers, transmission is strong. I own it because I wanted an inexpensive pickup truck, it was a forest service truck that spent it's first 100k in Montana.

The first couple of years of V10s had the spark plug thread issue, Ford fixed that in 2001 IIRC.

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DC3S - Have your favorite mechanic check the transmission as thoroughly as he can. Ford manual says 30k fluid changes which too long an interval for a hard use truck. Airbags in the rear indicate heavy loading to me. With a dually you have to buy 6 new tires, not 4, so keep that in mind.

I would avoid this truck, find yourself a 7.3L diesel instead and don't buy a 1999, 1999 is the first production year of these trucks. My own policy is to never buy a first production year vehicle.

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quote:

Originally posted by ontmark:
I have heard that to change the rear plugs you have to lift the cab off the truck. Dealer charges 4 to 5 hours for that. Plugs recommend to be changed at 100,000 miles.

No, the cab does not have to be lifted off the truck, but changing the rear plugs is a PITA.

With the right equipment, pulling the cab off isn't that complicated:

I owned a 2000 Class C motorhome with the V10 in it. I put 30K a year on it hauling an 18' race trailer all over the country. I beat the shit out of that thing, getting to the races was more important than babying the motor and trans. I just did lots of oil/filter and trans fluid changes. I never had a problem with motor or trans (tires is another story) I was quite impressed with it. I got rid of it about 150K and it was still running strong. So motor/trans wise if it has had regular fluid service - maybe at least one trans fluid change by 90K. Go through all other fluids if you get it (rear - xfer case).

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
With the right equipment, pulling the cab off isn't that complicated:

"Isn't that complicated" is relative...and most folks don't have a lift. I like the Super Duty Fords, they drive really nice and make good power, but I won't own one because I've never seen anybody have to pull the cab to change the spark plugs on a Silverado.

You don't have to pull the cab for the spark plugs. That's nonsense. Its a PIA as are the manifolds (another sore spot). But both are manageable in terms of money and way cheaper than the common 7.3 issues.
These are very, very tough trucks and when maintained very reliable. I love the comment you should get a 7.3 (perhaps my favorite engine of all time) instead but which really does require you to pull the cab for lots of projects.
If I was buying it I would look to make sure basic maintenance was done including the tranny oil and filters, the engine, transfer case and rear end. Things I'd check as negotiating items are the front end, four wheel drive system (specifically the hubs), and brakes both the calipers/rotors and especially the backing plates (which are silly expensive to replace).