So I bought some hammer bolts and drilled into the floor. BoltS were 3 in. I used a drill bit 6 inches long and would test fit the inner part of the bolt. Every single time the bit popped through with no resistance at the end.
My take. This is a good thing. You have penetrated to the dirt below concrete. When you someday remove the safe, instead of having to cut things off you can just hammer them down.
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I was concerned about water issues. I did not caulk. The bolts did bite and the safe is secured to the floor. New house. No water table issues that I knoW of. Have a sump pump that never runs. Thoughts.
I was concerned about water issues. I did not caulk. The bolts did bite and the safe is secured to the floor. New house. No water table issues that I knoW of. Have a sump pump that never runs. Thoughts.
The odds of you having problems are very unlikely. Do you notice water bubbling through your floor in other areas? If not, you shouldn't be getting water through the bolt holes.
In commercial construction a 4" floor is 4" just about anywhere you drill. In residential construction I find that I can have 2" on one corner of a safe, and 6" on another.
When using a wedge type of anchor, it allows you to knock the anchor down flush with the floor as opposed to cutting it. When using an anchor that taps itself, you don't have to worry about debris clogging the hole.
Combine that with the fact that residential concrete tends to be uneven in thickness, and odds are good you're going to punch through anyway. If this were a structural application, or there were other engineering concerns (like stressed slabs) then holes that stop at certain depths are important. Won't make any difference with a safe on a typical slab in your home.