Metallic noise in front; any chance you have a pad flipped around so the backing plate is against the disc, not caliper?

Years ago i had a pinto. Disk front, drums rear.
There was a balance valve that had to be tripped by allot of peddle pressure.
I mean i had to pump the peddle to firm then realy stand on it hard. I felt the change when it happened.

Problem found.

I have just learned a humbling lesson in both car maintenance and the life lesson of “you don’t know what you don’t know until you know it”.

More later when I’m not driving. (Currently at a stop light).

And no, I’m not driving the nova.

quote:

Originally posted by ffips:
All rear drum adjustments I have done in the past involved reverse and the brake pedal...

You must have been driving newer vehicles. The only drums I've ever adjusted involved a "spoon" to tun the star wheel adjuster. Then came along my '74 FJ-40. Toyota decided to use dual cylinders on each wheel, with two star wheels to adjust (and try to get them somewhat equal drag). And their brake spoon is a special tiny thing. Regular Chevy spoon won't even fit in the slot.
 

Sooooooo, as expected I goofed big time.

I've done rotor and pad replacements on some Malibus (front wheels) and both axels of my F150 (4x4). They were all easy.

I didn't understand the difference between rotors on a drive axel vs rotors on spindle, like the front of the Nova. Never even contemplated the intergrated hub.

So, when I pulled off the old rotors I sure as heck transfered that ONE bearing that I found under the dustcap.

But I never considered that there was another bearing on the inner side.

Yea, I'm that idiot.

End result? Lesson learned. Possibly ruined $150 in rotors.... the inner surfaces are pretty marred up from rubbing on the dust cover. I'm hoping they can be salvaged by getting them turned.

Could have been worse, I suppose. The spindles look fine. My work schedule is not super conduscive to getting this sort of thing done during my work week but I'll try and get the rotors done Thursday and then see if I can bolt it all back together Friday.

Oops.

Look at it this way, at least you didn’t get your hands all dirty repacking those larger inner bearings.

Seriously though glad you figured it out and I’m sure you’ll never make that mistake again.

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
Sooooooo, as expected I goofed big time.

I've done rotor and pad replacements on some Malibus (front wheels) and both axels of my F150 (4x4). They were all easy.

I didn't understand the difference between rotors on a drive axel vs rotors on spindle, like the front of the Nova. Never even contemplated the intergrated hub.

So, when I pulled off the old rotors I sure as heck transfered that ONE bearing that I found under the dustcap.

But I never considered that there was another bearing on the inner side.

Yea, I'm that idiot.

End result? Lesson learned. Possibly ruined $150 in rotors.... the inner surfaces are pretty marred up from rubbing on the dust cover. I'm hoping they can be salvaged by getting them turned.

Could have been worse, I suppose. The spindles look fine. My work schedule is not super conduscive to getting this sort of thing done during my work week but I'll try and get the rotors done Thursday and then see if I can bolt it all back together Friday.

Oops.

Don't be to hard on yourself. Glade you figured it out. We all have are days when working on cars.

It happens.......don't beat yourself up over it.

I had a friend once (really, not me!) who built a engine for a guy's '57 Chevy. Did the first fireup when the guy came to see how his car was doing.

I was there, another friend and I were there to pick up some parts.

Started and ran the engine at 2000 rpm to break in the camshaft. Owner was in the car and and said the oil light shut off. Friend noticed something was wrong as he was not getting any oil topside. Still ran it trying to figure out why no oil at rocker arms. Three times he ran it, it had solid lifters so tappet noise was normal. Three times the owner said the oil light was off.

The last time I happened to be standing by the driver's side, friend asked me to start it. I turned the ignition on, GEN light lit up but no oil light. So I said to my friend "That was the generator light, not the oil light, the oil light is not even lit! You forget to hook it up? What about the oil shaft?"

Yep,guess what he forgot to do...........For the other friend and I, exit stage left!

I have had a similar issue, dont know if it will be the same as yours, but did a brake job on my ranger when it was 16 years old and it still had the original brake fluid. Very shortly after the master cylinder died. I think the old brake fluid may have had trash in it that was dislodged when the pistons/cylinders were pushed back in. A new master fixed the problem.

Ohhh, just read your update....opps. that sucks.

I have always opened the bleed screws while pressing the pistons back into the calipers to prevent forcing crap back up to the ABS and master cylinder. Even when my Dad and I did brakes without doing that, we always bled the system anyway, so it seems like good prevention, and a great time to fully change the fluid (you know it’s hygroscopic and the water it collects turns to steam, a copmressible vapor, when the brakes get hot enough).

I do admit that I have never had the opportunity to tackle a drum brake job - Dad said leave those to the pros, too much of a PITA. Thankfully, drums are going the way of the dodo as well.

If didn’t replace the bearing race on the new rotor you should now. Were this mine I’d be changing out bearings and races and seals before reassembled. Both inner and outer. If you’ve never done it check YouTube for instruction on how to pack grease into new bearings.

quote:

Originally posted by reflex/deflex 64:
If didn’t replace the bearing race on the new rotor you should now. Were this mine I’d be changing out bearings and races and seals before reassembled. Both inner and outer. If you’ve never done it check YouTube for instruction on how to pack grease into new bearings.

I was planning on replacing the outer bearings but I’ll go ahead and donouter and inner.

Is the race just pressed out with a screwdriver or something?

quote:

Originally posted by thumperfbc:
I was planning on replacing the outer bearings but I’ll go ahead and donouter and inner.

Is the race just pressed out with a screwdriver or something?

Typically a hammer and long punch are required.

Here's a video that explains the process in general.




Link to original video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X30Klfg4vhU

I'm having a hard time with leaving the inner bearing out altogether. Weren't you a little suspicious when the rotor/hub flopped around on the spindle?

A new rotor/hub assembly typically has inner and outer bearing races in it. Just repack and use your old bearings, if they're good.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
Just repack and use your old bearings, if they're good.

Rear bearings should be good.

quote:

Originally posted by egregore:
I'm having a hard time with leaving the inner bearing out altogether. Weren't you a little suspicious when the rotor/hub flopped around on the spindle?

You’d think, right? I didn’t think “man, why does this thing keep wanting to fall out?”

What a dope I am.

Confucius said Brakes not work? Make horn louder !

This is the grease already loaded in my one and only grease gun. Is this acceptable?

https://www.oreillyauto.com/de...chevrolet/nova?pos=5

No. Get a tub of wheel bearing grease. Should be labeled high speed for disc brakes.

Like this: https://www.oreillyauto.com/de...bearing+grease&pos=6

Look up a video on how to do it. Basically, you put a glob in the palm of your hand and press the back of the bearing into the glob repeatedly while turning the bearing with your other hand. A video will make it clear.

Also, look up a video on how to adjust the bearings. It can involve torqueing to a specific torque wheel turning the wheel and then backing off to get a cotter pin through.

quote:

Originally posted by trapper189:
No. Get a tub of wheel bearing grease. Should be labeled high speed for disc brakes.

Like this: https://www.oreillyauto.com/de...bearing+grease&pos=6

Look up a video on how to do it. Basically, you put a glob in the palm of your hand and press the back of the bearing into the glob repeatedly while turning the bearing with your other hand. A video will make it clear.

Also, look up a video on how to adjust the bearings. It can involve torqueing to a specific torque wheel turning the wheel and then backing off to get a cotter pin through.

Copy, thanks. Got a new set of bearings, inner and outer, and races, though the races in the rotors look perfect. Not sure if I need to go through the hassle of changing them. Got fresh seals, and a tub of the correct grease. Rotors have been resurfaced. I think I’m ready to try it again and make brand new mistakes.

I plan on cleaning all the old grease off the spindle... should be easy. But there is a thick layer of grease and dirt and muck on the ball joint area on the upper control arm. What’s the best way to clean that? Is a pressure washer too much? Can I use the general purpose lithium greasevin my gun to refill that ball joint?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: thumperfbc,