So, I’ve changed pads and rotors on my 02 F150 and my wife’s 07 Malibu before, super easy. I decided it was time to do them on my 73 Nova. Car hadn’t been driven in many years until last fall. Last brake job on the front was at least 12 years ago. No idea on the rear. While I’m at it I decide to replace the rear shocks too.

So I swap out the shocks first, no problem. Then I tackle the rear drums. Never done a shoe before but I figure it out and am confident I got those back togetherr properly. The old shoes were cracked pretty severely.

Then I tackle the front. I have new AC Delco rotors as the current ones are warped and new Raybedtos pads. I get them disassembled and find the pads have s big of life Jeff but they are kind of crumbly at the edges. Weird.

I use an old pad and a c clamp to compress the piston back, no problem. No fluid leaks anywhere I can see. Swap out the rotors and button it all back up and take it around the block.

Immediately I notice a substantial metallic based rubbing sound coming from what I think is the front passenger side, possibly both. If I had to guess I’d think the rotor is rubbing on the thin guard plate but I’m not sure. I remember when I removed the retaining nut they didn’t seem very tight at all. I tightened justbenough to prevent the rotor from wobbling on the spindle.

The next thing I notice is no pressure on the pedal. It goes all the way down, the brake light comes on. I pull over, figuring I just need to pump it a few times. Nada. Pressure never builds up and I never get stopping power.

I limp it back home.

What did I screw up???

I would bleed the brakes and adjust the rear shoes first. Since you haven't done a brake job.in 12 years I would look for brake fluid leaks.

Somewhere, from Master Cylinder to Caliper, you have a leak in the system. Look for brake fluid and check all the relief valves. Pumping the brakes on a clean sheet of cardboard in your driveway will reveal the source.

After you have sorted it out, there are one-way valve tube thingies that you can buy to bleed the system with. These tubes are a lifesaver for bleeding brakes if you are doing it alone.

Don't forget to keep the master cylinder topped off, or you'll get air in the system that way, too.

H&K-Guy

Apply your parking brake. Then with the brake applied, press on the brake pedal. Does the pedal get stiffer? Then it is adjustment on rear brakes. If not, and you didn't open the brake system up (bleeder screw, brake line) then there is a leak.

First off, check the master cylinder fluid level, if low check for leaks. If low, refill and pump the pedal, if you have a leak it will show up. In my opinion, you shouldn't have to bleed the brakes as you didn't open up the fluid side of the system. All you did by compressing the caliper pistons was force fluid back into the master cylinder.

Did you adjust the rear shoes out to just!! allow the drums to go back on? If not, this could cause the brake pedal never getting hard.

Trying to pump up to get a pedal, when you release to pump again, the shoe springs will pull the shoes into the cylinders, negating your initial stroke on the pedal. Also, when components are dis-assed, adjusting mechanisms should be cleaned and lubed.

As for the front "noise", you'll just have to inspect.

quote:

What did I screw up???

Not calling a mechanic in the first place?

As far as adjusting the shoes, here is what I did:

I put the adjusting rod in at its minimum setting then put the shoe on. With the shoe on I then adjusted the screw thing so that there was just a smidge of resistance to the drum spinning.

Is that correct?

I neglected to mention that once I discovered no brake pressure and pulled over I tried it in reverse at a slow speed and hit the pedal: much better braking that way. It seemed normal. Related?

quote:

Originally posted by zipriderson:

quote:

What did I screw up???

Not calling a mechanic in the first place?

Lol. Trying to be more self-sufficient these days!

All rear drum adjustments I have done in the past involved reverse and the brake pedal...

quote:

Originally posted by Joe123:
Apply your parking brake. Then with the brake applied, press on the brake pedal. Does the pedal get stiffer? Then it is adjustment on rear brakes. If not, and you didn't open the brake system up (bleeder screw, brake line) then there is a leak.

I’ll try that.

Did you put the rear primary and secondary shoes in the correct order?

If checking the front wheel where the noise came from does not turn up a loose wheel bearing, caliper etc, don't be surprised if some debris in the old brake fluid was pushed back into the master cylinder causing it to fail.

This has happened to me on more than one occasion.

If you drew air into the system by applying the pedal when the reservoir was low, you'll need to bleed the system. You may also have a bad master cylinder.

quote:

Originally posted by Jelly:
Did you put the rear primary and secondary shoes in the correct order?

Yep. Took before pictures to ensure I got it right.

quote:

Originally posted by darthfuster:
If you drew air into the system by applying the pedal when the reservoir was low, you'll need to bleed the system. You may also have a bad master cylinder.

Can’t imagine air got in the system. I didn’t open anything. I’ll have to pull the wheels off again and check for small leaks too, I guess.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: thumperfbc,

The front spindle nut should be turned down until it is just snug/tight without any more pressure, turn the wheel, it should still turn. Then back the spindle (castle) nut off just far enough so you can put the cotter pin through the hole in the spindle.

From what I remember you did the.drums right. Also using the emergency will get the drum shoes closer.

Do the front brakes have any drag or is it freewheeling? I"m wondering if one or both calipers have frozen pistons. Pushing them back could cause the pistons to stick. Also, the brake proportioning/combination valve could have failed. That is on the frame rail beneath the master cylinder.

The fact that you had more brake pedal in reverse leads to rear brake adjustment. The shoes may not have been centered in the drum when you made your first adjustment. There is a hole in the backing plate to make the adjustment without taking off the wheel or drum. And some will adjust on there own (if they are lubed and free turning) if you lightly apply the parking brake and drive in reverse. Also pump the brakes as you drive in reverse.