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I Am The Walrus |
That sounds interesting. Never though to do that. Now I wonder how difficult it would be. _____________ | |||
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Dances With Tornados |
“ ” Just a FYI. Be a little careful with that. I’ll only buy parts that Amazon is the seller of, or at least a name I recognize. Way too many bozo sellers are selling counterfeit junk parts. . | |||
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I Am The Walrus |
Yep. Rock Auto is definitely a safer vendor for oil filters. _____________ | |||
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Raised Hands Surround Us Three Nails To Protect Us ![]() |
Amazon and eBay are the last places you want to buy Toyota parts especially oil filters. So many fakes anymore. Walmart is the best option for Toyota filters. Sparks Parts is generally the best priced Toyota parts. https://www.sparksparts.com/ My local dealer usually matches Sparks Parts prices. RockAuto is a great go to as well granted they sell a lot of crap off brand parts but sell the good stuff at good prices too. ———————————————— The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad. If we got each other, and that's all we have. I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand. You should know I'll be there for you! | |||
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Thank you Very little ![]() |
Not just Toyota parts, there are tons of ChungKing imposters selling parts, Champion, Delco, Motorcraft, if it's a car part there is a fake on Amazon.... RockAuto or your local auto parts store is best bet, support the local store and keep local hot rodders employed.... ![]() | |||
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I Am The Walrus |
I've also found Walmart to be a good source for Mobil oil filters. _____________ | |||
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Member![]() |
I've hard that before. I know there are LOTS of chinese knockoff crap parts, esp. Motorcraft, and tons of others I'm sure. So HOW do I know if Amazon is the seller, vs a non-Amazon seller ? I should know this since I use Amazon a lot, but I don't know for sure. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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Baroque Bloke![]() |
Here’s a Toyota that went 600K miles: https://sigforum.com/eve/forum...0601935/m/6910063005 Serious about crackers | |||
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7.62mm Crusader |
Yup, 8 dollars at WalMart for my Toyota OEM filter kit. That's a deal. I did buy 2 new OEM keys and fobs on Ebay. I saved a bunch doing so. Had them cut and programmed here for 50 bucks. I keep 3 keys and fobs. Rotate them every 4 to 6 weeks. | |||
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Member![]() |
I get Toyota oil filters from a Toyota dealer. Not that expensive. Mine is 10 years old; don't know if they have filters for cars older than that. ... stirred anti-clockwise. | |||
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Member |
It will say ships and sold by Amazon. | |||
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Member![]() |
Ok, "Ships and Sold by Amazon". Got it. Thanks very much. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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Member![]() |
Ok back to the old Camry project. I finished cleaning the cooling system with the Ford Motorcraft "VC-1" coolant flush additive. Then I ran about 6-7 gallons of distilled water thru the system, heated it up, cooled it off, drained it, wash rinse and repeat. I noticed this cleaner was pulling dirt out of the system, dirty water looked light gray colored. Interestingly before I started, the old cooling fluid had a bad smell, like some kind of biological process was going on. After the flushing with the VC-1 and rinsing with distilled, the smell was gone. I also installed a new Toyota thermostat and pressure cap, the thermostat was definitely due, and the old pressure cap was a generic, so a new Toyota pressure cap should do a good job of regulating more accurate pressure in the system. Ater the last drain I added 1 Gal of Toyota Red Long Life. Amazingly I was NOT able to find a spec for the total system capacity for that year/model/motor, and the Toyota Dealer refused to look it up for me (the guys I was buying my Toyota parts from). Go figure. It seems that no-one really knows, but the statements on the web range from 5.something to 7.something total quarts, and everyting in between, so who knows. At least my cooling system is clean, and probably something north of 50% concentration, since the Toyota Red I bought was 100% concentration. I avoid 50/50 mixes not only for economy but for easier calculation of the amount of concentrate used to achieve a 50/50 mix, which works only if you know the total capacity of the system to begin with. One more thing. I gave up on Auto Store touch up paints, Duplicolor seems to be the brand of choice. I have not had good luck with it. The Toyota dealer's touch up paint was $10 bucks, cheaper than the Duplicolor at all the parts stores. I'm hoping it work better than the cheapo Duplicolor brand. I'm not good at small spot body work, detailing intact paint yes, but not really true small spot body paint work. Even when I "follow the directions" it still turns out crappy. Anyway I'm out of money for fixing old cars to drive. Probably best, my wife will get mad if I don't get off the cars for a while. I've got so many small and medium projects still to go across four (old and older) vehicles, there's always something to do to them running and looking good. I recently saw an F100 that had been refreshed and restored to original (as is possible) factory parts and specs. It wasn't fancy restored like a shiny hot rod, just a close to original factory configuration. To say the least it was gorgeous. The owner was in the truck in the parking lot, and I walked up to let him know I enjoyed the eye candy. Turns out the truck had been in his family the whole time, and he just fixed it up, a great classic. Some cars are worth of fixing up, even if they're not classic muscle cars. I had forgotten how nice the style and lines are of the great F100 pickup. Fantastic. Lover of the US Constitution Wile E. Coyote School of DIY Disaster | |||
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