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All of the Ash have died and most have fallen here at home in KY. I cut all I care too but decay will get to most of it before I can cut and use it so a lot gets pushed into the gullies. A few years ago there where enough dead standing Ash that it was a legit concern maneuvering the tractor around amongst them for worry of being hit by a falling top if I bumped one. If we ever get another invasive pest that kills our Oak, we will be in big trouble.


“That’s what.” - She
 
Posts: 332 | Location: Kentucky | Registered: June 06, 2021Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Originally posted by ruger357:
Wanting to pull the trigger on a stihl ms311. 20” but $650!!!!

I have a Stihl 310, which Dad bought 20+ years ago. On its 2nd carburetor, 3rd bar, 2nd oiling system, who knows how many chains. Still running well -- the maintenance shop says engine compression remains high, over 95% of original spec. The 311 is just a slightly newer version of the same powerhead. Last year I spoke at length with the repair guys on how I'm using the 310 and what to expect going forward.

Should I retire the 310, they recommend a Stihl 261CM. The 261 is pro-level saw, and thus is built better than the 311 as a consumer saw. The 261 powerhead weighs 2.9 pounds less than a 311, which is huge. The 261 theoretically has .2 horsepower less, but they state its electronically controlled carb more than makes up the effective horsepower difference. This is especially true at my higher altitude, and 4-season cutting.

I have a 16" bar on the 310, and I don't feel it should handle a longer bar. When I bury the bar in big logs, the engine bogs down unless I back off on pressure against the wood. And we have pine around here, not hardwoods. A 18" or 20" bar will cut larger logs in a single pass, but I'd have to feather the pressure.

My B-I-L has a 390 with a 20" bar. IMO the 390/391 does have just enough power to handle a 20" bar. However, it still bogs down a bit when felling 20" plus trees. Does fine with bucking the same-sized trunks.

I also have a Stihl 400CM, with both 20" and 24" bars. The pro level Stihls are head and shoulders above the consumer-lever saws. The 400 also has a enough power to bury a 20" bar full length, to lean into the cut, and to not bog down.
 
Posts: 7874 | Location: Colorado | Registered: January 26, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Knowing is Half the Battle
Picture of Scuba Steve Sig
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My local Ace has a 261 in stock with an 18" bar. I ordered gift cards from Discover rewards to get it when it comes in. Its probably overkill for what I will use it for, but "buy once cry once." I've spent more on guns that just sit around in a closet.

While we're on the topic of Stihl, I would be remiss if I didn't add this link on the 881:

Always wear yoga pants when handling chainsaws
 
Posts: 2518 | Location: Iowa by way of Missouri | Registered: July 18, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by fritz:
quote:
Originally posted by ruger357:
Wanting to pull the trigger on a stihl ms311. 20” but $650!!!!

I have a Stihl 310, which Dad bought 20+ years ago. On its 2nd carburetor, 3rd bar, 2nd oiling system, who knows how many chains. Still running well -- the maintenance shop says engine compression remains high, over 95% of original spec. The 311 is just a slightly newer version of the same powerhead. Last year I spoke at length with the repair guys on how I'm using the 310 and what to expect going forward.

Should I retire the 310, they recommend a Stihl 261CM. The 261 is pro-level saw, and thus is built better than the 311 as a consumer saw. The 261 powerhead weighs 2.9 pounds less than a 311, which is huge. The 261 theoretically has .2 horsepower less, but they state its electronically controlled carb more than makes up the effective horsepower difference. This is especially true at my higher altitude, and 4-season cutting.

I have a 16" bar on the 310, and I don't feel it should handle a longer bar. When I bury the bar in big logs, the engine bogs down unless I back off on pressure against the wood. And we have pine around here, not hardwoods. A 18" or 20" bar will cut larger logs in a single pass, but I'd have to feather the pressure.

My B-I-L has a 390 with a 20" bar. IMO the 390/391 does have just enough power to handle a 20" bar. However, it still bogs down a bit when felling 20" plus trees. Does fine with bucking the same-sized trunks.

I also have a Stihl 400CM, with both 20" and 24" bars. The pro level Stihls are head and shoulders above the consumer-lever saws. The 400 also has a enough power to bury a 20" bar full length, to lean into the cut, and to not bog down.
good info. Thanks!


-----------------------------------------

Roll Tide!

Glock Certified Armorer
NRA Certified Firearms Instructor
 
Posts: 7946 | Location: Hoover, AL | Registered: November 06, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Equal Opportunity Mocker
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Originally posted by Skins2881:
Did you use your 10mm to knock down the tree then the chainsaw to cut it up?


Why would you destroy a whole forest just to down one tree?


________________________________________________

"You cannot legislate the poor into freedom by legislating the wealthy out of freedom. What one person receives without working for, another person must work for without receiving."
-Dr. Adrian Rogers
 
Posts: 6390 | Location: Mogadishu on the Mississippi | Registered: February 26, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Ammoholic
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quote:
Originally posted by slabsides45:
quote:
Originally posted by Skins2881:
Did you use your 10mm to knock down the tree then the chainsaw to cut it up?


Why would you destroy a whole forest just to down one tree?


Haha, I read "my gun" due to eyesight and underlining, if anyone was wondering what my nonsensical reply was. Funny too I was trying to spot a gun and none was visible.



Jesse

Sic Semper Tyrannis
 
Posts: 20825 | Location: Loudoun County, Virginia | Registered: December 27, 2014Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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