The Amarine switch to control my 12v 1.7A (4amp max) Seaflo marine-grade 1.2gpm pump arrived. The switch has three poles.

If I wanted to simply break the (+) current, a 2P would suffice?

Is the 3P (the extra pole) only to allow the LED light on the switch to work, or does running the (-) through the switch have another purpose?

The pump is 1.7 amp; I guess 4 amp max is only for a fraction of time at startup.

What do you figure the lowest amperage battery I can use would be for no more than 50% drain at 60 minutes use?

I'm having a little trouble picturing this.

Is it a straight On/Off switch or is it a 3 position switch?

Did it come with a wiring diagram, or do you have a picture of it?

Might be a common pole, and a Normally Open (NO) and Normally Closed (NC) poles, depending on which way you push the switch.

A picture or diagram would help.

Maybe similar to this? You need a ohm meter to check the terminals.

Exactly, h-tech.

Amarine Made 12v 20 Amp Waterproof Green LED On/Off Boat Marine SPST 3P Rocker Switch with Light - Green LED

I finally figured out that the lamp would require a neutral for it to operate. And while it *looks* like the neutral is passing out of the switch to my dim brain, I see now it is sorta not exactly the case.

What about the battery? Would an 8 Amp/hr battery be fine for a long weekend of limited use?

That is a single pole, not three pole switch. One contact (-) for light, one for feed (+) and one for switch leg (+). If you don't want the light just use the two + terminals or buy a simple toggle switch.

Thanks, I was experiencing plumber's misunderstanding of all things electrical. Got it wired and chose a battery - probably Duracell [SLA12-8F Duracell Ultra 12V 8AH AGM Battery]. Tank is coming today. Ace Roto Mold 20 Gallon Rectangle Tank SP0020-LC





Gel & AGM come up 8 AH, Flooded = 12 AH.