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| Member |
So the recent dash cam threads motivated me to buy and install this dash cam. I’m going to hardwire it into the interior fuse box (hopefully). I have a couple of questions that maybe someone here will help me out with. From the picture of the diagram for my fuse box; I’m curious what the “+b” means? I’m looking to make the connection via a fuse tap to #27.  | ||
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Unflappable Enginerd |
On Toyota and Honda, and probably other makes I haven't worked on, +B is designated as 9-14VDC with the ignition switch on, so it's "switched" power/volts. Should be on when the ignition switch is in ACC or above. __________________________________ NRA Benefactor I lost all my weapons in a boating, umm, accident. http://www.aufamily.com/forums/ | |||
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| Member |
Thanks! That makes sense. “B+” = continuous power. | |||
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| Member |
I think he said just the opposite of you. Switched power is NOT = continuous power, its only available when the ignition is live. IF you want camera power continuously you don't want those. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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| Unflappable Enginerd |
That's correct. DR and DR D/L = Hot continuously, or downstream fuses for door lock system. ACC = Key inserted, hot when in "acc" position or above. +B = Key inserted, hot when in "acc" position or above. IG1 = Key inserted, hot when in "run" position. IG2 = Key inserted, hot when in "run" position. They're power "buses" fed from separately switched relays and fuses. __________________________________ NRA Benefactor I lost all my weapons in a boating, umm, accident. http://www.aufamily.com/forums/ | |||
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| Member |
So here’s a pic of the install instructions and a pic of the engine fuse box. Am I hearing that it would be best to route the hardwire to the engine fuse box? If so, what would the recommendation be? I’m just trying to find the best way to wire this without taking it to a shop. They want $150 to install.  I can do this, with a little help from my friends!    | |||
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| Unflappable Enginerd |
Hmmm... Not sure where they got their nomenclature. But for sure +B <> B+  But the good news is you can tap off fuse 14, which in your case is the hazard lights for continuous power, and just about anything noted above for the ACC connection. __________________________________ NRA Benefactor I lost all my weapons in a boating, umm, accident. http://www.aufamily.com/forums/ | |||
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| Member |
Thank-you stoic-one! One last request. Where specifically can I tao the ACC into? What would you recommend? | |||
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| Unflappable Enginerd |
That's not a primary supply for power I'm guessing, more like a wake up and pay attention signal. Pick the lowest rated fuse for switched power, like maybe fuse 19 in the interior box? __________________________________ NRA Benefactor I lost all my weapons in a boating, umm, accident. http://www.aufamily.com/forums/ | |||
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| Smarter than the average bear |
If you don't have a DMM (digital multi-meter) you should get one. Even if it's a cheapo from Harbor Freight. Then you can verify which fuse is constant voltage and which is ignition. Another thing, I hope you have actual fuse taps. It is universally agreed in the 12 volt community that wrapping wire around the leg of a fuse as shown in the instructions is poor practice. And make sure each of your wires is properly fused. | |||
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| As Extraordinary as Everyone Else  |
Couldn’t you use something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Pixnor-...a-307234676336&psc=1 I am in the process of figuring out the wiring requirements for a BCDC charge controller for powering a second battery in my overland rig and one of the wires I have to run is to a fuse that is enabled by turning on the ignition and they suggest using something like the above... ------------------ Eddie Our Founding Fathers were men who understood that the right thing is not necessarily the written thing. -kkina | |||
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| If you see me running try to keep up |
That tap a fuse is what is usually used, it makes install easy. | |||
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| Member |
I’ll be using this circuit tester. https://www.amazon.com/Jastool...efix=circuit&sr=8-12
Agreed. This is what I’ve chosen. https://www.amazon.com/Pico-15...id=1601564394&sr=8-4
They are. The wiring harness that came with the unit has them built in. Thanks again for all the help and advice! There isn’t anything that cannot be accomplished by this forum! I have learned so much in this space! Truly thankful! Now to get to it! | |||
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| Member |
Save yourself the work, get one of these bad boys, recommended by another forum member. Literally plug and play https://www.dongartechnologies.com/#products | |||
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| Member |
Yeah, I saw those from the dash cam thread. Nifty solution for sure. Unfortunately, I do not have a “powered” rear view mirror, so no where to plug that into. | |||
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