So recently we had our countertops replaced and now, the Air-Gap overflows. (Before it did not.)

The Air-Gap is physically in the same location as the previous. I've gone through to ensure the hose has no kinks and is a straight shot to the gap. Have already replaced the old Air-Gap. No joy.

Any thoughts, ideas, etc?

TIA

Sounds lime you have a clog. Did they replace the tailpiece and not make sure the opening is open?

quote:

Originally posted by petr:
Sounds lime you have a clog. Did they replace the tailpiece and not make sure the opening is open?

"They" is me.

I did replace the hose (one of those Air-Gap kits from either Lowe's or HD.

When you wrote "tailpiece and not make sure the opening is open?" what do you mean?

I replaced the hose where one side of the "Y" fitting goes to the dishwasher and the other end feeds into the garbage disposal. The ends were self explanatory. Can't mix them up.

Did you have a new garbage disposal installed?

In the same line as Brian's question. Did you previously have the line from the air gap going into a T in the drain and now you've connected it to the fitting on the disposal?

To answer both; new disposal and plumbing is routed same as previous. Also, inlet plug on disposal was removed.

I would first make sure the drain line flows water. Perhaps look a garden hose nozzle to the hose going to the garbage disposal, from where it attaches to the air gap and see if it backs up in the sink or drains, if it drains properly try a different brand of air gap, at $10 they're pretty cheap. Is it possible the air gap is directional and hooked up backwards?

Look inside the plastic piece where the overflow water comes out. Mine was overflowing and that piece was clogged up.

If it drains into a disposal, and the disposal can’t handle the volume of flow, it comes out the air gap.
I removed that. I run a drain line to the disposal. I don’t want some fitting puking dish water on the counter or into the sink.

quote:

Originally posted by Beancooker:
If it drains into a disposal, and the disposal can’t handle the volume of flow, it comes out the air gap.
I removed that. I run a drain line to the disposal. I don’t want some fitting puking dish water on the counter or into the sink.

Well if it ddin't mean having a hole in the really, really nice, brushed black granite top...lol

It the recommendation to route the D/W drainage to the disposal without the air-gap in the system?

What might be the downside of doing this?

quote:

Originally posted by LS1 GTO:

quote:

Originally posted by Beancooker:
If it drains into a disposal, and the disposal can’t handle the volume of flow, it comes out the air gap.
I removed that. I run a drain line to the disposal. I don’t want some fitting puking dish water on the counter or into the sink.

Well if it ddin't mean having a hole in the really, really nice, brushed black granite top...lol

It the recommendation to route the D/W drainage to the disposal without the air-gap in the system?

What might be the downside of doing this?

No downside if you run the drain from the DW as high as you can under the sink and secure it so it stays in place, then directly into the disposal.

quote:

Originally posted by Snapping Twig:

quote:

Originally posted by LS1 GTO:

quote:

Originally posted by Beancooker:
If it drains into a disposal, and the disposal can’t handle the volume of flow, it comes out the air gap.
I removed that. I run a drain line to the disposal. I don’t want some fitting puking dish water on the counter or into the sink.

Well if it ddin't mean having a hole in the really, really nice, brushed black granite top...lol

It the recommendation to route the D/W drainage to the disposal without the air-gap in the system?

What might be the downside of doing this?

No downside if you run the drain from the DW as high as you can under the sink and secure it so it stays in place, then directly into the disposal.

This is how every dishwasher I've ever had in several different houses, was run. No air gap. Dishwasher drain hose cable tied near the underneath of the counter top and directly to disposal.

quote:

It the recommendation to route the D/W drainage to the disposal without the air-gap in the system?

It's accaptable by code in many places now to just run a "high loop" instead of an air gap.

quote:

Originally posted by LS1 GTO:

quote:

Originally posted by petr:
Sounds lime you have a clog. Did they replace the tailpiece and not make sure the opening is open?

"They" is me.

I did replace the hose (one of those Air-Gap kits from either Lowe's or HD.

When you wrote "tailpiece and not make sure the opening is open?" what do you mean?

I replaced the hose where one side of the "Y" fitting goes to the dishwasher and the other end feeds into the garbage disposal. The ends were self explanatory. Can't mix them up.

Make sure the opening for the dishwasher drain is open. Most likely plastic? Make sure there is no slat left in the little hole that can plug up.

In looking at the other responses, your disposal my not be able to handle the flow and back up your air gap.

You wouldn't be the first plumber to plug up an air gap with plumbers putty.

An air gap already exists, as the discharge is, 99% of the time, into an indirect drain of sorts. (Except when a sink of water is being emptied or the kitchen drain backs up). I never liked the air gap device and if an inspector was not inspecting, I'd probably say, "Lets leave it out for now' we can always add it in later". And use the hole for something else.

I never knew what those things were, I had to google it. I haven't seen one in years.

No downside. Make sure the drain hose rises above and then down to the disposal.

As for the hole, add a hand soap dispenser.

I’m 62 years old and never lived in a house that had an air gap for the dishwasher. This leads me to believe that they may not be essential.

quote:

Originally posted by arfmel:
I’m 62 years old and never lived in a house that had an air gap for the dishwasher. This leads me to believe that they may not be essential.

It raises the "flood rim level" of the dishwasher discharge. Say your sewer main backed up (anywhere after a combined kitchen and 2nd floor bathroom stack and there was no opening after the stack, for example) and Mad Uncle Charlie kept flushing the upstairs toilet anyway.

The sewage rising in the kitchen sink would overflow the rim of the sink (flood rim level of the sink) and run across the countertop (onto the floor) before backing up into the dishwasher. Ain't that convenient.

quote:

Originally posted by petr:

quote:

Originally posted by LS1 GTO:

quote:

Originally posted by petr:
Sounds lime you have a clog. Did they replace the tailpiece and not make sure the opening is open?

"They" is me.

I did replace the hose (one of those Air-Gap kits from either Lowe's or HD.

When you wrote "tailpiece and not make sure the opening is open?" what do you mean?

I replaced the hose where one side of the "Y" fitting goes to the dishwasher and the other end feeds into the garbage disposal. The ends were self explanatory. Can't mix them up.

Make sure the opening for the dishwasher drain is open. Most likely plastic? Make sure there is no slat left in the little hole that can plug up.

In looking at the other responses, your disposal my not be able to handle the flow and back up your air gap.

Going through and reading what others have added here, I am beginning this is the issue. I recall this is a Waste Kang disposal and maybe nuances exist with flow?