I came across an old square with a bubble level, I assume it's my dad's. I don't really have a need for one, but I kinda dig its looks. Does anyone know a place that restores hand tools like that?

This message has been edited. Last edited by: AllenInAR,

What does it need?

Metal or wood?

Are the bubble vials intact?

I think it just needs surface rust removed, a good cleaning, maybe repainting the black parts. I just lack the place to do it. Pretty sure the kitchen would not be ideal. LOL

Find someone to GENTLY bead blast the metal, mostly the rule. I'm talking glass beads NOT sandblast.

They could probably carefully clean up the level/square assy as well. Just mask off the bubble.

How about this:http://antique-engines.com/electrol.asp

That looks like the one I use everyday.
It's not that old and it's not in bad shape.
I'd just use some steel wool to knock off the rust and throw some oil on the slide part .
THEN use it!

What you have is a combination square, a handy tool.
Naval Jelly will remove the rust from the rule and knurled knob then keep the bare metal oiled. It won't look like new due to the pitting. I wouldn't use abrasive blasting of any sort.
The part with the angles looks like it could be aluminum or some non-ferrous alloy in which case it's a less precision homeowner or wood working version (can't tell from the photo). The higher quality ones would be an all steel toolmaker version and the more precision surfaces ground flat.
Unless this has a lot of sentimental value, I wouldn't spend a lot of money on it. The same type are available new and very common.

Use Evaporust.
It is a chelating agent, no acid or harsh chemicals.

It will only remove the rust itself, not any "good" metal, and does not require any neutralizing, only wash with water and dry.

On that, it might require about an hour of soaking.

The metal will be clean and natural.

I use it on tools and classic car parts.



https://shop.advanceautoparts....kfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Along a similar line of thought, once a tool is de-rusted is there anything that can be used in the toolbox to keep it from rusting again?

I have a Husky portable toolbox that has a product already added to the plastic to prevent rust, but what about something for the larger rolling toolboxes with their multitude of shelves?

I second the Evaporust recommendation. Can order on Amazon. Look at videos on their website.
If that doesn’t do it you can always use brute force (steel wool, glass beads). Naval Jelly has not worked well in my experience on something I wanted to look good at the end.

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:
That looks like the one I use everyday.
It's not that old and it's not in bad shape.
I'd just use some steel wool to knock off the rust and throw some oil on the slide part .
THEN use it!

This is what I would do

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:
That looks like the one I use everyday.
It's not that old and it's not in bad shape.
I'd just use some steel wool to knock off the rust and throw some oil on the slide part .
THEN use it!

This.

Antique tools shouldn't be made to look like new, but returned to the condition that they would be in if in use by a craftsman. If you're going to store it, Renaissance Wax is awesome and what museums worldwide use to preserve metal objects.

ETA: If you want to search on Amazon, Fleabay, Google, etc. It's called a 'combination square'.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: Jim Shugart,

You could also use a solution of citric acid and water to remove the rust from the blade. Unless the portion containing the bubble is made of cast iron/steel I wouldn't immerse it in a citric acid solution.

The powdered citric acid is available in many grocery stores (canning supplies) or from Amazon. Use about three heaping tablespoon fulls to a quart of water and immerse the blade for 12 to 24 hours. Remove the blade from the solution, wipe dry and polish with steel wool or a wire brush.


This is the same powdered citric acid solution many of us use to "brighten" brass cartridge cases when reloading.

Try your favorite gun oil. Slip 2000 removes surface rust. I have one just like that but very little rust. Maybe bought it 45 years ago. I always clean & spray my tools after use before putting in the tool box. I used to use WD-40 but in recent years I use Rem Oil spray.

quote:

Originally posted by marksman41:
Along a similar line of thought, once a tool is de-rusted is there anything that can be used in the toolbox to keep it from rusting again?

I have a Husky portable toolbox that has a product already added to the plastic to prevent rust, but what about something for the larger rolling toolboxes with their multitude of shelves?

I use camphor crystals in plastic 35mm film canisters. Punch a hole or three in the can with a paper punch, drop a marble-sized chunk of camphor in, cap it and toss it in the drawer. Camphor will need to be replaced occasionally.

Both camphor crystals and plastic film canisters available on Amazon.

To the OP: What The Monkey said. Nothing rare, unusual or particularly old about it, clean it up and use it.

You can wax the blade with car wax to help keep it from rusting.

Nice find.

While not rare those old school ones are rock solid compared to the plastic and aluminum ones you find today.

I have both and the newer ones are crap compared to those older steel ones.

I watch this guys videos all the time. It's therapeutic in a way.

Maybe you can send it to him and he'll do it just so he can video it for youtube. Maybe he'll ask for cost of supplies, or maybe he'll not want to get involved.

It would be cool to have a video of it being resurrected if it has sentimental value.


https://www.youtube.com/channe...G9kJWi1eVxM0QkyqKVJQ

You can get toolbox tray liners. Rubber mats with "Zrust". I use them and keeps tools from sliding and no rust. Lowes has them.

Evaporust is carried by most auto-part stores.

You can pour it in a shallow pan (pyrex is perfect, or drape plastic trash bag. Set you part(s) and cover, you can check on it every once in a while.

Parts need to be immersed, since it will only chelate the rust, it does not matter how long you leave it.

I do not recommend chromed steel parts, as it can discolor or attack the plating bond if there is any rust on the base metal. That is a problem with older parts.

Then you pour it back in the bottle and use it over and over until it takes too long to get results.

I have used it until it turned black, and the only thing is it starts leaving a black layer deposit, that washes or wipes off as the particulates build up and settle out.

I have not tried filtering through a couple of coffee filters, but that may work.

quote:

Originally posted by smschulz:
That looks like the one I use everyday.
It's not that old and it's not in bad shape.

Well, like I said, it's most likely my dad's. He died in 1985, and I'm sure he got it back when I was a teen or so....that makes it maybe 30-40 years old.