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blame canada |
Link. Please, no one buy this out from underneath me... https://juneau.craigslist.org/boa/6062721352.html Owner is a coastie, a helicopter mechanic. I've got about 30 pictures. Price is still negotiable. It's going to cost $2-3K to get it to me. Slight background...I just bid on a rather large state job that requires a boat of this size. IF we win the bid (we're one bidder of 3, and we find out in 1 week from friday), I'll have to borrow about half of the price to make the purchase (and still leave enough operating capital for the business to do the jobs, completed job (for the state of Alaska) pays over 90 days, and is 3x the current asking price of the boat). I still have to beg from family to make it happen, the alternative is chartering a floatplane or helicopter...and still a boat (22 parcels spread across SC Alaska). We'll end up spending half the boat cost in chartering fees. Of course we wouldn't be stuck with a boat money pit afterwords.... Any specific experience with 1990 era bayliner boats like this? I realize NADA is about half the asking price. The total package is close to the appropriate market price for our region. We're already in contact with a local marine surveyor for an inspection prior to agreeing to a price or purchase. MOSTLY what I'm asking, is who has experience with this era of bayliner boats (in this size or similar), who can tell me about specific things that I should be running away from. Also...how seaworthy do we consider these boats to be? I've been in some 8-10' seas in my 22' custom aluminum boat previously, but it was virtually unsinkable. The way I understand these boats, the cockpit drains to a bilge and is pumped overboard. Its a system destined for failure. I don't see skupper drains that drain through a one way valve directly overboard. That concerns me. I've submarined into waves previously, scary...but my previous boat kept going. It has a 383 stroker upgraded motor in it, but no performance numbers. I really need to be able to do 100 mile trips within the rule of thirds. Experienced thoughts and advice are welcomed and encouraged. Pic for some attention: Feel free to state the obvious, I have semi-thick skin. ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "The trouble with our Liberal friends...is not that they're ignorant, it's just that they know so much that isn't so." Ronald Reagan, 1964 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ "Arguing with some people is like playing chess with a pigeon. It doesn't matter how good I am at chess, the pigeon will just take a shit on the board, strut around knocking over all the pieces and act like it won.. and in some cases it will insult you at the same time." DevlDogs55, 2014 ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~ www.rikrlandvs.com | ||
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Member |
I would much prefer a heavier built boat such as an Orca or similar boat. Price is good on that boat, but remember that gas engines use a lot of fuel, probably get about 1.5 mpg. Any time you buy a used boat, plan on upgrading 'a few' things. Would be a good idea to have a boat mechanic look at the engine, etc. Boat has to be reliable if you are using it for work. Here is a better boat, but of course costs more: http://www.boattrader.com/list...t-orca-xlc-102831492 PS old style where water drains to the bilge is not that bad, as you can install a 3,500 GPH bilge pump. -c1steve | |||
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posting without pants |
I suppose it comes down to a few basic questions. 1. Is this going to to be the only type of job you do like this? a) Will you be able to use this in future jobs that will make such jobs of the type profitable as you have already gone through the experience/expense of buying the boat? b) If not, can you easily resell the boat? Are there risks to the boat's value due to damage or wear in the current job? 2. Is THIS the best boat for the job, especially if you want to keep it and keep doing work that may require the boat? I mean, if the answer is no to the above, I'm not sure I'd even take the job in the first place... Since the boat is such an expense, and a one time deal (potentially) then it doesn't seem like it is a cost worthy undertaking. Now, if you are undertaking the expansion of the business into such work, then sure, it might be worth it. Strive to live your life so when you wake up in the morning and your feet hit the floor, the devil says "Oh crap, he's up." | |||
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Member |
Go to thehulltruth.com and do some research. Down here Bayliner rightfully has a poor reputation. Wire, electrics, hull are all made to a price point. If I recall that era has balsa coring both on deck and below the water line. Stay away. Lots of other manufacturers that will be a better choice. “Forigive your enemy, but remember the bastard’s name.” -Scottish proverb | |||
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Member |
Ditto "poor reputation" in SE Georgia for all of the same reasons. You need a boat that is 100% reliable and seaworthy for the conditions you will experience. Look around no see what the others doing same type work are using. A brand/size/type hull will start to become evident a few days into your research. I don't like inboards in salt water; I made that mistake twice. | |||
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SIGforum Official Eye Doc |
Talk you out of it? OK... It appears to be an I/O...that's a big hole below the waterline. If there are rough seas, I would prefer a deeper V hull, and twin outboards. Do you need a cabin/living space, or will it be day use for the job? Just a few thoughts... | |||
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"Member" |
My impression of Bayliners is they're bought by people who don't know boats. Used a season or three, then sit in their yard till they turn to seed. _____________________________________________________ Sliced bread, the greatest thing since the 1911. | |||
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Bent but not broken |
When I was in the Coast Guard you know if he's to call Bayliners? Bottomliners. If you are going to use it in protected waters (think lake) it might be ok but up in Alaska? Email me and I will send you my cell number if you want to discuss it. | |||
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I started with nothing, and still have most of it |
On a relative basis, Bayliners of that era were poorly made boats, which is why I never owned one. I did comparison shopping and avoided them for saltwater use. If you did a scale of 1 to 10, and had Grady White at or near the top, then the Bayliner would be near the bottom, maybe a 2 or so. Thin hulls, not much fiberglass in the mix. Sorry, but this is common knowledge for salt water boaters in the South. Hope it all works out for you. "While not every Democrat is a horse thief, every horse thief is a Democrat." HORACE GREELEY | |||
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Step by step walk the thousand mile road |
Have a competent marine surveyor perform a proper survey. He will find any faults and note anything that is unsafe or unseaworthy. I'm not sure this vessel is adequate for 10 foot or higher swells. As another said, if high seas are your normal conditions, look for a deep V hull with more than one engine and generator. Nice is overrated "It's every freedom-loving individual's duty to lie to the government." Airsoftguy, June 29, 2018 | |||
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Go Vols! |
Figure 1 mpg at cruise. Will this be on the ocean? Seems a bit small for that. Twins would be preferable. That kicker may not get you home. If an inland lake or a bay it may be ok. The dinghy is a nice bonus though. Make sure the surveyor thoroughly checks for rot. | |||
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Member |
This. I would also steer clear of a gas inboard and stern drive, especially if you're going to keep the boat in the water. I'd rather have a diesel and then a 4 stroke outboard if I couldn't get a diesel. | |||
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Joie de vivre |
When we were actively boating we called them Clorox Bottles, they tended to roll in a good beam sea. With that much roll it had to be unpleasant for the people on board. | |||
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Member |
Bayliners are near or at the bottom of the quality barrel. I would never go offshore with one. There are for sure better used boats available for what you need. On the other hand the comments about the I/O drive are simply wrong. If you need 300hp its the best and most reliable way to get it, and replacing one is very economical (doesn't sound like that's an issue for you, but its a risk). A new outboard will be 30K and a brand spanking new Mercruiser will be 10K with max 1500 needed to completely revamp the outdrive. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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Member |
I manage yachts and gas inboards are always a headache, overheating, spark issue, fuel issue. Too many components to go wrong. Plus exhaust manifolds and risers that need to be changed every 5 years in salt water, raw water pumps, fuel pumps, fuel filters, accessories. Add to that and a stern drive and you're in a world of mess. If you keep a stern drive in Saltwater, they get eaten alive, again a lot of things to go bad. Lower unit seals, trim rams, gimble bearings, etc. Plus the premium for gas over diesel on the water. Diesel inboard would be the way to go, outboards would be my second choice.... | |||
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crazy heart |
If you need a boat for offshore work...oh hell no on that Bayliner. Hell no. | |||
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Green grass and high tides |
The only thing this boat has going for it "might" be the current owner. I would not buy it. It won't nickle and dime you. It will thousands you to death. I am unsure of your need because it is pretty vague. I would consider a much smaller but higher quality boat with an outboard. I have someone in Sitka considering shipping a boat I have up to him fwiw. "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
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Needs a check up from the neck up |
I'm not a life long boater or anything but I have been in 8-10 footers a dozen times or so, and no way in hell would I do it in a boat of that hull type/design, and to rely on it for a paycheck, that seems like a recipe for trouble. __________________________ The entire reason for the Second Amendment is not for hunting, it’s not for target shooting … it’s there so that you and I can protect our homes and our children and and our families and our lives. And it’s also there as fundamental check on government tyranny. Sen Ted Cruz | |||
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Member |
I guess I don't follow your logic in this case. I've run a series of boats of ever kind of power for 50 years. I live and work in a fishing community where everyone (mostly) needs a boat to make a living and everyone discusses costs of operation. I fully agree the optimum choice for almost any purpose is a diesel inboard. But that's also the totally max initial cost. Here we are talking about buying a low cost boat for a project. I've seen no evidence that new gas I/O's have anything like the kind of reliability problems you mention. Modern ones simply don't have any issues that are material to your list when maintained properly. Diesels have bad fuel, bad fuel filters, raw water pumps, impellers that suck junk, manifolds etc. And newer ones have all kinds of electronic issues. Everyone I know who runs a gas I/O for a serious money making purpose pulls the whole thing out every 5-7 years and replaces it. And what I said is completely true, you can do that for the least capital cost. For sure you ultimately lose the savings in fuel cost and life cycle costs, but this is a short term project. If you buy a boat with a pair of outboards, or a decent 300hp diesel and have issues it will cost you at least 2-10 times the cost of just installing a new Mercruiser which will work fine. “So in war, the way is to avoid what is strong, and strike at what is weak.” | |||
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Alea iacta est |
Agree with most of the above. While I'm certainly no expert on boats, Bayliners never had a good reputation back home when I was growing up on the great lakes (we had a Marathon - not the best, but I have 3 siblings and dad really wanted a boat). In any event, the number 1 thing that would make me stay away from that boat is the fact that it has only one engine. 15 miles from shore and the engine dies, well, you're in for a REALLY shitty day. As I'm sure you're aware, that 8hp kicker isn't going to get you back to shore in anything less than 2 days, if at all. The second thing that would make me stay away from that boat is that it's gasoline-powered. | |||
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