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Three Generations of Service ![]() |
My 1994 model John Deere LX178 is acting up...again...and I'm getting more than a bit tired of chasing the problem. Also, it's seeming like a good excuse for a new toy and I have approval from the CFO. I'm in favor of water-cooled engines from a longevity standpoint but a quick scan of John Deere offerings doesn't include any, at least in my price range ($5000 max). I'm not locked in to Deere, but I've had awfully good luck with them, so... I am NOT in the market for a Big Box Store MTD/Yardman/AYP cheapo. I do not need or want a zero turn, I don't mow that much grass. Things I DO want: Minimum 2 cylinder 18 horse or greater. Preferably NOT a Briggs and Scrapiron. In fact, it'd have to be a hell of a deal to talk me into a B&S. Honda or Kawasaki would top the list. Hydrostatic trans, two-pedal type. NOT one of the cheesy throw-away models, a good one, ideally with a filter system and the ability to change the fluid occasionally. 42 or 48 inch, 2 or 3 blade deck. Solid frame and front axle (as opposed to stamped/folded/mutilated sheet metal) Minimum of electronic bullshit. Experience with specific brands/models appreciated, especially from folks that mow a lot of ground or mow commercially.This message has been edited. Last edited by: PHPaul, Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | ||
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The Constable |
I think JD quality has gone down hill these past 20 years or so. Far more plastic and thin stampings than real metal. The transmissions are a weak point too. But fixable. I had an older JD 38" 14 hp from the late 80's that I traded inn on a 2000 18 hp. That first one had real metal, thick paint, looked good after 10+ years of use. The new 42" immediately had issues. Within 3 or 4 years the paint was faded, plastic parts cracking and the Transmission slipping on hills. Two years back bought a new 48" Kubota zero turn. Real steel and seems to be engineered and built with longevity in mind. The JD is parked in the weeds rotting away. I envy you as I love my lawn machines and enjoy getting a new one. But I'd be very wary of JD. | |||
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Three Generations of Service ![]() |
That's been my impression as well, especially looking at the units the Big Box stores sell. I was hoping the upper tier models at the dealer (X300 series) wouldn't be as watered down.
Hadn't thought about a 'Bota, I'll have to check it out. If I knew I could fix the LX178 once and for all, I'd just keep it. Not a THING wrong with it otherwise and as you said with a little wax still looks like new. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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paradox in a box![]() |
I have the x 350. Love it so far. Only had it since March and haven’t done a lot yet. It’s got the Kawasaki engine. I paid $6300 with the bagger, snowblower attachment, utility cart, weights and tire chains. These go to eleven. | |||
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Member |
https://boston.craigslist.org/...ctor/6895796333.html Too big? I know it's over your budget too. https://maine.craigslist.org/g...-448/6900632193.html 18hp Onan. Hydraulic drive and lift. Well within your budget. A beast of a tractor. The tractor itself is 700 pounds. All attachments are Tenneco built | |||
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Too soon old, Too late smart |
If you do decide on a JD I recommend a 42 two blade since you don't have much grass to cut. I have the JD 48" 3 blade and it's a gas hog. 2010 model and overall it's not been a bad tractor. Only major problem was replacing the clutch _______________________________________ NRA Life Member Member Isaac Walton League I wouldn't let anyone do to me what I've done to myself | |||
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Member![]() |
My LX176 had the Kawasaki engine. I loved it, and it finally gave out after about 20 years or so. I couldn't get the Kawasaki replacement, so I ended up with a B&S (love the nickname you gave it, Paul!). Darned thing leaks oil like a [stereotypical] Harley, and has since day one. Each time I start it, the oil "dribblins" get hot and the front end smokes like it's on fire for about a minute. Good grief, I want want my Kawasaki back! God bless America. | |||
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Member |
I keep nursing my old JD GT 275. I ended up replacing the motor 7 years ago, but since then, it has run like a top. It has a busted hood and generally looks like shit, but mows the grass as good as ever. | |||
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Go Vols!![]() |
I’ve been eyeing a JD x350 with the Kawasaki engine to replace my LX176. Looks like a nice tractor. My LX has the Kawasaki too. | |||
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Member |
Still have my old JD GX 345 from 2003 or so. Had to buy a new carb couple years ago (ouch!!!) but still does good. Bought myself a Kubota BX25D couple years ago, love it. They offer a lot of smaller ones, look like quality. Even my Deere dealer says their stuff has gone way down in recent years. | |||
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Legalize the Constitution![]() |
Like frayedends, I also have the X350. I didn’t buy all the accessories he did, but did get a 48”, 3 blade mower deck. This is its second season. I like it. I have 3 acres and about 2 acres of it is native prairie grass. I leave it alone in the spring for the benefit of ground nesting birds, and it has the power to muscle through fully mature grass 24” tall. I believe it was $3600 ETA: Went back and read the post about a Kubota recommendation. Years ago, when I was doing ranch work, we had a medium-sized (40 HP?) Kubota. It was a great tractor and part of the reputation they built for reliability. My neighbor has two Kubotas, a zero-turn mower and a tractor. Both have been anything but reliable. Electrical problems are especially prevalent, switches, relays and the like. _______________________________________________________ despite them | |||
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The Constable |
TMats....And I'm the other end of the Kubota spectrum. Have the ZTR a mere 2 years butt zero issues. Also have a 26 hp tractor, with front end loader and a way too large bush hog that should be on a larger unit. And in 10 years had a battery die, that has been it. | |||
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Prepared for the Worst, Providing the Best![]() |
I've got a JD GT262 that I got for free off a guy because it wasn't running right. It's been a pretty good tractor, but it's wearing out. The deck is getting holes in it, and I doubt it has much more than a year of life left in it. Last time I was at the dealer for parts I priced new ones...even the lower-end models cost more than I've ever paid for a car (the last vehicle I spent $3000 on has given me over 100,000 reliable miles...spending that kind of money on something to cut the grass just doesn't compute)! And I concur with what others have said about the cheap stamped metal parts and disposable transmissions. If I was you I'd put some time into that old LX and sort out the problems, then keep running it until it does. If you buy new, you're going to spend a lot of money on something that's not as well made. I think when my deck finally goes I'll be looking for something older and used on Craigslist. | |||
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Three Generations of Service ![]() |
I am reluctantly coming to the same conclusion. The deck is in excellent shape because I scrape it down to bare metal and coat it with Rustoleum Rusty Metal Primer ever Fall before I put it away. The whole machine is stored indoors unless in actual use. All the plastic is original and crack free, just a little sun faded. The problem is that it randomly starts surging and losing power. If I don't stop and turn off the deck it will quit. Sometimes it will come out of it and continue to mow for the rest of the day. Other times, it won't go away until it cools off completely and will come back as soon as it gets hot again. I don't recall it ever doing it unless it was up to operating temperature. My initial assumption is that it's a fuel problem. I've cleaned (sonic cleaner) and adjusted the carb multiple times, purged the fuel system and refilled with fresh gas, made sure the tank cap was venting properly and made sure it has a new, clean fuel filter. The "hot" thing has me confused. A carb/fuel supply problem shouldn't be temperature dependent. An ignition issue (coil getting hot and breaking down is the classic) shouldn't go away after idling for a minute as it sometimes does. Right now I'm cleaning the carb again and I replaced the mechanical fuel pump because I had a new spare on hand. Governor is operating freely and correctly as far as I can tell. If this doesn't fix it, I may source a new coil and see if that helps. Not a big fan of troubleshooting from the parts department, but I don't know what else to do. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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Member |
Did you replace the fuel line? Is there something floating around in your tank? Take a small gas can and rig it up to sit above the carb so you have a direct shot of gas to the carb. This will tell you if it is fuel related. Do you have a spark tester? Hook it up and check for spark after it acts up. There should be a test procedure for your coil some where. You will need to know the resistance range for a good coil. It could be your points and condenser also. If you have them and have not replaced them. You can try dumping some Seafoam in your gas tank to aid in cleaning things up. | |||
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Crusty old curmudgeon ![]() |
Paul, don't write off B&S engines altogether. I have an 08 Toro LX426 with the B&S Intek 20 HP engine and it's been flawless in those 11 years. No issues at all. It runs and starts like the day I bought it. It's a shame that Toro no longer makes riding mowers except for Zero Turn units because I'd sure recommend them if they did based on my experience. I'm in the same situation as TMats with 3 total acres with 1 that I mow. Jim ________________________ "If you can't be a good example, then you'll have to be a horrible warning" -Catherine Aird | |||
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Three Generations of Service ![]() |
Good thought on the spark test, I'll grab a tester. Electronic ignition, so no points/condenser. Be careful when following the masses. Sometimes the M is silent. | |||
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Go Vols!![]() |
Mine has a small silver square on the side that caused all kinds of weird issues running when it went bad. Replaced and ran perfect ever since. I forget what it is called but it is in the ignition circuit. 1” square flat silver component mounted on the outside. | |||
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Member |
Change the fuel line again with ethanol rated marine fuel line. I've seen the inner core of a lot of fuel hose separate from the outer core, and once hot the inner core will collapse. Provided the vent is free (try loosening the gas cap when it does this and see if it immediately wakes back up), change the fuel hose and all fuel hoses on the engine. It's cheap and worth a shot. | |||
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SIGforum Official Eye Doc ![]() |
Stay away from big box mowers. I wouldn’t dismiss zero turns out of hand; they can cut mowing time in half. | |||
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