quote:

Originally posted by hunter62:
Thanks guys!

I see mixed reviews online with Webber. Some say they don’t rust, others complain about them rusting. I am guessing the stainless Genesis® II S-310 Gas Grill would be the one to get to help with rust, but again, a little pricey at $950.

The large BGE is $849, but then you need the nest for $160. Buy a couple of accessories and your walking out of there at $1300 after tax.

I love the flavor charcoal grills produce, but sometimes gas is easier when tossing 2 burgers and a hot dog on for the family.

I bought the Weber S 330 stainless, same time as the other grill was bought (2 years ago). I live 1/2 a mile from the beach in a straight line. All of the insides of the grill are perfect. But the stainless does get/have surface rust staining all over the exterior. Nothing that you can run your hand over and feel, but you can see it. You can polish it out with nevrdull pretty easily, but it comes back after several months. The porcelain coating on the E 330 at the house 1/2 a mile south of me is flawless still.

I had a Weber genesis for many years that work great. I can’t say enough good things about their customer service. It’s awesome. I moved to a salt air environment and the innard and base started to rust away. This could also be because it was over 10yrs old and corrosion was probably accelerated. When I started to price out everything to rebuild it was going to be more than 1/3 of a new one. The search for new grill started. When I called Weber to ask what grade stainless they used I was just told it was “proprietary”. No worries. I’m ok with that

I finally purchased a Napoleon and couldnt be happier. It’s equally as good quality as the Weber and they use too notch stainless. 5 years in salt air and still nothing is rusting. It is covered when not in use

I also have a BGE

quote:

Originally posted by snwghst:
I had a Weber genesis for many years that work great. I can’t say enough good things about their customer service. It’s awesome. I moved to a salt air environment and the innard and base started to rust away. This could also be because it was over 10yrs old and corrosion was probably accelerated. When I started to price out everything to rebuild it was going to be more than 1/3 of a new one. The search for new grill started. When I called Weber to ask what grade stainless they used I was just told it was “proprietary”. No worries. I’m ok with that

I finally purchased a Napoleon and couldnt be happier. It’s equally as good quality as the Weber and they use too notch stainless. 5 years in salt air and still nothing is rusting. It is covered when not in use

I also have a BGE

The easiest way to tell if stainless steel is a good grade or not is to see if a magnet sticks to it. If a magnet sticks to it, it's crappy stainless.

I've heard really good things about the Napolean, but think they're outside of the OP's price range.

My Weber is 20+ years old, lives outside on the patio in the Pacific Northwest.
The body is cast aluminum and obviously doesn't rust.
The burners are stainless, and do rust to some extent, and I have had to replace those every few years, but I buy the cheap knockoff's..

No other problems.
Weber is the only BBQ I will buy. I can't affor a Big Green Egg..

Weber Genesis

mine is 15 years old, 13 years in NH weather, 2+years here in AZ

still has ALL original parts with no sign of wear

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
I bought an old Weber for $30. Pre-runner to a Genesis, but with 5 flavorizer bars instead of 13.
Cleaned it up, looks brand new. It’ll last another 30 years, and the Weber grills work like a dream. No flame ups and great heat control.

I just checked our local classifieds, and there’s three just like mine for under $50. It seems they get dirty and people don’t realize how nice it can be.

This. It's amazing how cheap you can find a good used Weber grill.
Every once in a while you will have to replace the burners, but they aren't that expensive.

This grill is 20 years old and has outlasted the deck it once sat on!

I went the BGE route because of the rusting issues. Plus, as a grill starts to rust, the burners get hot and cold spots and flare a lot.

If I would have stayed with gas, I'd have bought Weber.

They all rust, or become crusted wth fat and ash, but keeping it in the garage slows the process way down.

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:...

The easiest way to tell if stainless steel is a good grade or not is to see if a magnet sticks to it. If a magnet sticks to it, it's crappy stainless.
...

Again, talking out your ass.

Some of the best quality and high resistance to corrosive environments are highly magnetic.

The magnetic properties are affected by cold working, alloying and some of the "less magnetized, and be returned to a "more magnetic state" by heating and quenching which allows the crystalline structures to re-orient or normalize.

Corrosion of "non-magnetic" stainless can be just as high as "highly magnetic". The Corrosion resistance is based on physical properties not directly associated by magnetism.

Metallurgy is a little more involved than "playtime magic with magnets".

The OP would be better served with links to professional reviews or from people who have actually owned the grills they do or do not recommend.

Having a friend who grilled your steak might not be quite the same thing.

quote:

Originally posted by sigmonkey:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:...
If a magnet sticks to it, it's crappy stainless.
...

Again, talking out your ass.

Some of the best quality and high resistance tocorrosive environments are highly magnetic.

The magnetic properties are affected by .....

Thank you SM, you just saved me from throwing away all my Henkel knives. I had read the earlier post and went to testing all my very expensive kitchen knives with a magnet, and they were all highly magnetic. I figured I got knock off ones. Whew.

quote:

Originally posted by sigmonkey:

quote:

Originally posted by jimmy123x:...

The easiest way to tell if stainless steel is a good grade or not is to see if a magnet sticks to it. If a magnet sticks to it, it's crappy stainless.
...

Again, talking out your ass.

Some of the best quality and high resistance to corrosive environments are highly magnetic.

The magnetic properties are affected by cold working, alloying and some of the "less magnetized, and be returned to a "more magnetic state" by heating and quenching which allows the crystalline structures to re-orient or normalize.

Corrosion of "non-magnetic" stainless can be just as high as "highly magnetic". The Corrosion resistance is based on physical properties not directly associated by magnetism.

Metallurgy is a little more involved than "playtime magic with magnets".

The OP would be better served with links to professional reviews or from people who have actually owned the grills they do or do not recommend.

Having a friend who grilled your steak might not be quite the same thing.

I deal with stainless steel, every single day of my life. Mostly 316L fasteners and a lot of welded and waterjetted stainless steel that is polished to a mirror finish, but also other grades. BUT, if you need proper education, here it is

"There are three main types of structures in stainless steel—austenite, ferrite, and martensite. When you see stainless steel labeled as 18/8 or 18/10 this is telling you how much chromium and nickel is in the steel. The first number indicates 18% chromium, and the second 8% or 10% nickel. The nickel is the key to forming austenite stainless steel. Both the 18/8 and 18/10 are therefore austenitic.

nd there is a good reason for this—austenitic, or nickel-containing, non-magnetic stainless steel, is highly resistant to corrosion, which is super important if you’re cooking directly on it. If the piece was fully magnetic stainless steel, it would corrode and not last very long without the nickel to stabilize the metal. "

butterbeliever.com/how-to-tell-quality-of-stainless-steel-cookware/

The NICKEL in the stainless steel is what makes it NON- Magnetic and also stabilizes the metal so it does not corrode. Here is a handy table which shows you what grades are non magnetic and they also tend to be the best grades of S/S (the 300's). Kitchen knives are a totally different animal because they use magnetic steel because it holds an edge better, top grade S/S (in the 300's) will not hold an edge worth a darn.

https://www.engineeringtoolbox...ess-steel-d_383.html


Since we are talking grills and high heat, non magnetic austenite stainless steel, is the grade you are looking for so it doesn't corrode.

Jimmy. You are still wrong about this, in spite of your google-fu.

I work with people who deal with computers every day of their life, all day and some of them can't put the batteries in the mouse by themselves.

I have worked with people who were "experts in their field, and had high academia behind it, yet were still lacking in their field to get through the day without screwing up and having others (often folks "beneath" them) solving the problems they could not fix, made worse, or created in the first place.


Almost all of them are engineers.

I have owned my Weber Genesis for the last 23 years, and it still works 100% and will clean up and look like new. I have never had a gas grill this good......and I have owned a bunch of gas grills.

quote:

Originally posted by sigmonkey:
Jimmy. You are still wrong about this, in spite of your google-fu.

I work with people who deal with computers every day of their life, all day and some of them can't put the batteries in the mouse by themselves.

I have worked with people who were "experts in their field, and had high academia behind it, yet were still lacking in their field to get through the day without screwing up and having others (often folks "beneath" them) solving the problems they could not fix, made worse, or created in the first place.


Almost all of them are engineers.

Like I said earlier. I deal with tons and tons of stainless steel (literally), every single day of my life. Different grades, different purposes, etc. Nickel is what gives it the ability to resist corrosion in stainless steel that is also high heat resistant, such as the grades you should use to build a BBQ grill out of. BUT, those grades are more expensive than cheaper grades.

Being that S/S is an alloy, there are all different grades (and mixtures of metals that comprise each grade) depending on what purpose of S/S you are using for.....very hard but brittle, corrosion resistance, able to hold an edge, strong but not brittle, high heat, cheap, etc. etc.

316L is strong and has great corrosion resistance, but isn't worth a darn as a knife material that will hold an edge (for example).

Well, it looks like I can’t get what I want in my price range, so I will need to step it up. Right now I am about $550 into my current grill (includes first round of replacement parts) that is 5 years old and have to put another $120 and hope it lasts another 3 years.

Do we think the newer Weber grills are just as good as the old ones? Seems nothing is made like they used to. Anyone have any thoughts on this specific Weber? 10 year all parts warranty sounds pretty good.

Genesis II S-310

One reason I love the Charbroil RED was the very even cooking and no flare ups. Despite my best efforts, my wife likes all her steaks/burgers/etc completely well done. But she doesn’t want any burn marks or char. This proved difficult with previous grills.

The BGE seems great, but I quickly go from the $859 price to $1200+ out the door with a nest, cover, and other accessories.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: hunter62,

Let's see if my Google-fu is better.

"Magnetism and corrosion resistance are not connected. Corrosion resistance depends on how much chromium and (sometimes) molybdenum is in the stainless steel. The higher the chromium and molybdenum, the better corrosion resistance.

The magnetism myth is because the common magnetic grades of stainless steel, 409 and 430, don’t resist corrosion as well as the common non-magnetic grades, 304 and 316. You can’t expect them to. Grade 409 has 11% of chromium, which is plenty for automotive muffler systems.

Grade 430 has 16% of chromium, and is mostly used indoors. Grade 304 has 18% of chromium, which makes it suitable for general purposes, including outdoor exposures. And in marine environments you need Grade 316, which has 16% chromium and also 2% of molybdenum to help it resist the attack of salt. 316 is known as marine grade.

So the Common non-magnetic stainless steels have better corrosion resistance than the common magnetic grades because they have more chromium and molybdenum."

LINK

Thanks again SM, up until today I believed the myth.

For the record, I've had a Weber Genesis e-320 going on ten years now. I used to cover it, but the cover wore out. I couldn't keep the porcelain coated cast iron grates from rusting even though I took care of them by the book. Weber sent new ones the first time and gave me a good discount on the stainless steel ones the second time. I've replaced the flavorizers bars with heavier aftermarket ones, although I'm sure Weber would have taken care of those as well. I need to replace the plastic wheels, but ten years on pavers seems ok.

Other than that, the grill looks and works great. I'll buy another one when this one wears out if I don't give up the ghost first.

quote:

Originally posted by hunter62:
Well, it looks like I can’t get what I want in my price range, so I will need to step it up. Right now I am about $550 into my current grill (includes first round of replacement parts) that is 5 years old and have to put another $120 and hope it lasts another 3 years.

Do we think the newer Webber grills are just as good as the old ones? Seems nothing is made like they used to. Anyone have any thoughts on this specific Webber? 10 year all parts warranty sounds pretty good.

Genesis II S-310

One reason I love the Charbroil RED was the very even cooking and no flare ups. Despite my best efforts, my wife likes all her steaks/burgers/etc completely well done. But she doesn’t want any burn marks or char. This proved difficult with previous grills.

The BGE seems great, but I quickly go from the $859 price to $1200+ out the door with a nest, cover, and other accessories.

No reson to believe they are lesser quality than the older ones, possibly the lower economy models, but Id doubt anything else is. Id not worry about it as...

Weber stocks parts going back 50-60yrs. the CS is top notch

Kamado style is the way to go. I love my vision grill.

If angasser is what you want, consider a Wilmington grill.

I have a Weber Genesis 310 that’s about 5 or 6 yrs old. I’ve got the copper colored enamel one. No rusting on top or doors. Looks great. Until you open it up.
The grates have been rusted and flaking for the last couple years. They need replaced. Immediately. The flavor bars are completely rusted. They need replaced immediately. The igniter on the left needs fixed.
Between the 3 things that need fixed, it’s about 40% of the original purchase price. That’s going with Grill Grates, and having new flavor bars made at a local fabricating shop. If they’ll make them. I don’t want to keep replacing things.
I keep it covered but outside. I live in the rust belt. It is what it is. Damn.

quote:

Originally posted by nhracecraft:
Broilmaster - The Most Durable Grills Known to Man!

From the website: "Reward yourself with a Broilmaster Premium Grill – designed to perform and built to last."

"While other grill brands have come and gone – and many have gone overseas – Broilmaster soldiers on as one of the few grills still made in the USA. The brand is now owned by Empire Comfort Systems, which produces Broilmaster Premium Grills in its plant in Belleville, Illinois."

These Grill DO NOT Rust! I believe I originally purchased the my Broilmaster Grill in 1999, and I replaced the Burner for the first time a few years ago. The replacement was covered under the Limited Lifetime Warranty, which is quite impressive!

Broilmaster Premium Grills Warranty - LIMITED LIFETIME Warranty Against Rust-through
Covers ALL Major Components: Aluminum Grill Housing (except paint), Stainless Steel Cooking Grids and Stainless Steel Griddles, Select Stainless Steel Components – Cart, Mounting, Bowtie Burner, Side Burner, Side Shelf, and Warming Rack.

I believe I paid around $900 for mine, back in 1999. The Grills they sell today look exactly like mine, and mine looks like I bought it last summer! Obviously NOT cheap (Buy Once, Cry Once!), but it will be the last Grill you ever buy!

www.broilmaster.com

We have had two of these over the years and they are the best!

My father-in-law used to install them as his part-time job for Atlanta Gas years ago while being a fireman.

These are the literal bomb of grills!