While installing struts on my 2010 Silverado, I leaned on the fender and the paint literally peeled off in 6" strips. I have approximately and 8"X12" area where this happened. The base (primer) coat below it is intact and shows no signs of rust. My guess is it was prepped bad or got contaminated before paint. My son finished his first year of auto body and just pulled out a dent in his car and painted it and it looks very good. My problem is now that school is on summer break, I can't have him buy the paint and clear coat from school. He doesn't know what paint they use. I need less than a pint of each so he can sand the fender and spray it. Any recommendations on a brand paint and who sells it. Looking on the internet it is difficult to figure out what to buy. I have the paint code WA8624.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: rtquig,

I think your truck was made in Indiana, which would mean it was made with DuPont paint, or its called Axalta now. What color is it? Your best bet is to go to a local body shop and have them order or make you a gallon to match. It won't be cheap.

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Originally posted by Lord Vaalic:
I think your truck was made in Indiana, which would mean it was made with DuPont paint, or its called Axalta now. What color is it? Your best bet is to go to a local body shop and have them order or make you a gallon to match. It won't be cheap.

paint color codes should be on your door tag.

I know the paint code which I listed in the OP. You find it on the glove box. I have a body shop up the road, but I am not going to need a gallon. My son was able to buy pints at school. I don't want to wait until school opens in September.

We have at least two automotive paint stores in our town. I bet you could find similar nearby.

Scuff up the o.e.m primer, re-prime, finish sanding primer in 600 grit. Tack off, Scuff pad or 600 the o.e.m paint, spot (blend)the color to hiding. Lightly tack panel, you'll need to clear the entire panel. Usually 3 coat swill give you enough uv protection.

You most likely have base clear coat. A pint will be plenty as you'll most likely reduce it 100 to 150%. The clear will require a different reducer & a hardner / catalyst. Material is not cheap. Some paint jobbers will offer a votech discount. Don't be afraid to ask for a little price break. Get some strainers & stir sticks too.
Best of luck to you both.

Ps...I forgot to remind you or your son to ask for the product data or product info sheets. They are guides to use for the products you're buying.

The major paint companies also have a second, less expensive offerings. Color match will not be as close but usually blendable. This project will certainly test a freshman in the body / painting field.

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Originally posted by recoatlift:
Ps...I forgot to remind you or your son to ask for the product data or product info sheets. They are guides to use for the products you're buying.

The major paint companies also have a second, less expensive offerings. Color match will not be as close but usually blendable. This project will certainly test a freshman in the body / painting field.

Thanks, all good information.

We have a Sherwin Williams Automotive paint shop and I have used their stuff and been quite happy with it.

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Originally posted by Black92LX:
We have a Sherwin Williams Automotive paint shop and I have used their stuff and been quite happy with it.

I'll second that. I'm no pro, but I've used Sherm's auto paint several times and have been very happy with its performance.

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Originally posted by darthfuster:

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Originally posted by Black92LX:
We have a Sherwin Williams Automotive paint shop and I have used their stuff and been quite happy with it.

I'll second that. I'm no pro, but I've used Sherm's auto paint several times and have been very happy with its performance.

There is a Sherwin Williams in our town, I will see if they can get auto paint. This afternoon I am stopping by the auto collision up the street to see what they would charge to paint it or if they would sell me the paint. I am going to bring my son who can also ask for a job.

Jeff Gordon said to tell you, "DuPont."

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Originally posted by TMats:
Jeff Gordon said to tell you, "DuPont."

Although I don't watch round round, I would let Danica give me a lesson on how to use it.

OOf. Sounds like you have a delamination issue. This happened on a vertical panel right? Since it's a solid white color, are you just going to have him strip the entire fender and panel paint it or blend into the door and hood?

I would like to have the fender blended but I think the right way would be the fender and hood. Yes, it just delaminated on the section above the headlight.

Today I took the truck to a local auto body shop to see what they would charge. Owner said $350, but thought this was a problem with the entire paint on the truck and will most likely happen in other places. Recommended that I contact the dealer. I made an appointment for 7/6. Auto body guy said even though it is out of warranty, this is clearly a bad paint bonding and hopefully the dealership will make good. I am pessimistic but you never know.
Other wise I will see if school can repaint it.

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Originally posted by rtquig:
I know the paint code which I listed in the OP. You find it on the glove box. I have a body shop up the road, but I am not going to need a gallon. My son was able to buy pints at school. I don't want to wait until school opens in September.

The paint that is on your code will NOT match the paint that is on your truck. Paint changes color as it ages. Best bet is to take a 2" piece of the paint that peeled off to an automotive paint supplier or body shop and have them match you a pint or quart. But then you're also going to need the appropriate amount of catalyst and appropriate amount of reducer. It only takes about 3 quarts of paint to paint an entire suburban (plus the catalyst and reducer).

You can test for adhesion by firmly putting duct tape on suspected problem area & yanking the tape up fast, or try the quarter car wash pressure spayer. We stripped many GM peelers down to the primer using the pressure washers. Usually it was the flat panels...hood, roof, trunk & tops of fenders& quarters that peeled.