What should I worry about? Figured I’d jump it with StaBil in tank. Anything else?

Old fuel. Gasoline should be good for a year, but not a guarantee. It will become unusable goo in the carb, lines and tank. It will leave a black sediment that contaminates everything it touches. That's your first concern.

In addition to the fuel issues (I'd just dump it, BTW, and run clean stuff all the way through), how's the battery? If it's been sitting unattended for a year, and wasn't new when last run, I'd plan on a replacement. It most likely won't hold a charge.

Oh, there was a thread here a year or two ago, complete with pics, that showed the hazards of waking up rattlesnakes under the hood. Just say'n.

Pop off the air filter cover and spray some starter fluid into the carb with the choke OFF. Fire her up and it should start. You may have to re-adjust the choke at that point. Pour some Seafoam into the tank and let it run for a while. You should be fine after that.

If it's just been one year I'd just try and fire it up and see what you get, then go from there.

It might need to crank a little bit but I would not be surprised it it fired up and ran.

Might need to charge or jump the battery. Especially if it wasn’t in good shape last time it was run.

You may have to pull the fuel lines off and make sure they are not clogged. Sea Foam added to fresh gas should be used to clean the carb but in my experience will not clean the clogged lines.

They say ethanol gas has a shelf life of three months so it is wise to dump the old fuel.

It likely will just need a jump to start, as long as the battery was in decent shape at he end of the season last year. Although it possibly could have fuel issues if it won't start. A fuel stabilizer should always be added at the end of the season.

If you can get the float bowl off or if it has a bleed screw I'd make a point of letting a cup of fuel run through. I'd be inclined to collect it too, just to see what the condition is. If it looks like cottage cheese or is full of chunky shit I'd think about starting over again after a good off the machine cleanup of that carb. Right now the jets might be clear but sucking a bunch of shit in them is no bueno.

I have started a bunch of small motors using WD-40 as a starting fluid, propane was always the propellant and the liquid is both flammable and a lubricant. (I was very nearly a farmer in my former life, I used what was at hand)

Wd 40 much better than starting fluid.. As that motor is already dry.. And starting fluid is hard on a dry motor.

don't forget to check the oil.

How big a tractor? 1 or 2 cyl? Some have oil pumps. You might pull the plug wire / wires and crank it over a bit to splash / pump some oil around first.

I'm in the drain or siphon the old gas, pour in some fresh gas school. But I always run my mower, chainsaw, or weed eater til the tank is dry before storing it for even a month or two. I've not had good luck with stabilizer.

I would pull the spark plugs and fill the cylinders with some marvel mystery oil and bar it over without the plugs in it (or use the starter and bump it) to lubricate the cylinders. I'd also drain all of the old gas and put fresh gas in it before I attempted to start it.

quote:

Originally posted by arfmel:
I'm in the drain or siphon the old gas, pour in some fresh gas school. But I always run my mower, chainsaw, or weed eater til the tank is dry before storing it for even a month or two. I've not had good luck with stabilizer.

It's not good to run 2 cycle completely dry. The gas/oil mixture lubricates the bottom end of the motor (crankshaft, bearings, etc.) run you run it dry, all of the bottom end runs dry before the engine shuts off creating extra wear.