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| stupid beyond all belief  |
Ok, Ill try to explain this best I can. -Clothes front-load washer was leaking. -I know this because I would wake up and water would be in the drum. -I turned off the hot and cold water since i thought it was an internal leak -Today to do laundry I turned them back on. -Hot works just fine -cold does not have water come out. -I removed the hose to confirm it wasnt the hose to the washer -the cold is tied in the basement to my sink and other things that work just fine. -one thing I notice is the cold valve upstairs seems really easy to turn. -seems the cold valve may be stuck closed. any ideas how to rectify the situation? Alright I looked at the valve when it is in the open position. all I see is metal, so I am presuming it is stuck or disconnected from the valve handle. How would I fix that?   This message has been edited. Last edited by: Deqlyn, What man is a man that does not make the world better. -Balian of Ibelin Only boring people get bored. - Ruth Burke | ||
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| Member |
There are dozens of styles of valves. Post a picture or a link to one to get an accurate answer. | |||
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Member |
Well had to say but I'll get the ball rolling here maybe... A Pic of the valve might help. What type of valve, are you sure it's open? Old Gate valves require several turns to open and often have a round or two of play when backing out. It may feel like it stops but further turning is required to actually open it. But then I have no idea what kind of valve you have... Sound like you may just need to replace the valve. Does the handle keep turning round and round or does it stop at some point like it is open all the way? The handle itself could be stripped, can you tell if the stem turns or just the handle? Collecting dust. | |||
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| stupid beyond all belief |
Its only a quarter turn to open. If u notice the hot valve is in open and to close it you just need to be perpiniducular. The cold valve does quarter turn however it feels "loose" when compared to the hot. I took the second shot with the valve open. It looks closed to me internally but im no expert. I took the handle off just to see if I could manually turn the stem? With a wrench. It does turn but the view into the faucet remains the same. THe metal you see above. What man is a man that does not make the world better. -Balian of Ibelin Only boring people get bored. - Ruth Burke | |||
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| Member |
Open it a little with the hose off of it and see if water shoots out! It's either the valve, or the water solenoid (or electrical stuff) on your washing machine. The fact you mentioned the drum fills itself, I'd guess the water solenoid on the washer. But open the cold valve first with the hose off, have a chamois or towel or put a short garden hose on it and route it into a sink or whatever and see if the valve is opening. | |||
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Nosce te ipsum |
In your first image the flat sides of the valve stem are perpendicular to the wall. In the second picture the ball looks "open", but are you saying the cold is closed in the second image? You cannot stick a straight object thru the valve? If you stick something into the cold valve as pictured in the second image and it hits the ball in the closed position, then you turn the stem 90˚ from what it is pictured in Image #1, and still cannot insert an object thru the valve (i.e., the ball does not rotate to the "open" position), then the stem is broken off the ball. Righty-tighty. Lefty-loosy. If it is closed, quarter turn anti-clockwise should open it. But as you point out, it feels loose. We call that "broken" in the industry. Personally, I like exposed copper coming down a wall to ½" ball valves to ½" CXF lug elles. Boiler drains (hose cocks) screwed into the elles. Easy to service. | |||
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| Member |
To me it looks like the valve handle to stem fit is striped on the handle. take off the hot water valve handle and compare to the cold handle. You may be able to buy a new handle, if not measure the stem on the valve and purchase a new valve then put the new valve handle on the old valve. | |||
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| stupid beyond all belief |
Yes no matter which way the handle is the ball is still blocking the valve so I assume its broken. I just left Home Depot and the guy said the same thing that I am effed and have to tear out the dry wall to replace this. I actually dont mind dry wall work and I am also thankful a shutoff valve is put in so I dont have to turn the water main off. Seems it is resolved for now. Thank you all for the help What man is a man that does not make the world better. -Balian of Ibelin Only boring people get bored. - Ruth Burke | |||
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Member |
If you are turning the stem with pliers and the ball is not turning it's broken as stated above. The only way to change the valve coming into the washer box is to open up the wall under the box and install a new valve by 1. turn off water supply. 2 cut pipe going into valve with tubing cutter( if it's copper) 3. Install new valve. Different pipe will require different fittings suitable for what is inside of the wall. NRA Life member NRA Certified Instructor "Our duty is to serve the mission, and if we're not doing that, then we have no right to call what we do service" Marcus Luttrell | |||
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| stupid beyond all belief |
I was hoping so too but i turned it without the handle via wrench both ways and no water came out. What man is a man that does not make the world better. -Balian of Ibelin Only boring people get bored. - Ruth Burke | |||
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| Member |
The valve looks like it is a threaded valve. If you look at the side picture where you can see the bottom of it, it has a hex spot on it for a wrench. If the hot is threaded the cold probably is too. I'd shut the water main off and see if it's threaded and it will unscrew, you might have enough clearance if it's threaded to not have to tear apart drywall. | |||
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| Just for the hell of it  |
Those valves usually are thread/solder. Meaning the installer can tread on a FTA or solder right into it if the house is copper piping. Turning the valve out could cause more damage without knowing how everything is connected. I would cut out a square below the box. Cut the pipe once the water is off and drained. You will still get some water so be prepared when you cut the pipe. Get a new valve from HD/Lowes ect. Try and match what you have or something that will work with that box. Get the new valve a short piece of pipe and a Shark Bite type conector. There are other ways but that would be the simplest and easiest. If you have any questions I've installed many of those type of boxes for washers. _____________________________________ Because in the end, you won’t remember the time you spent working in the office or mowing your lawn. Climb that goddamn mountain. Jack Kerouac | |||
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| stupid beyond all belief |
The piping underneath is PEX. I'm off to get a second valve to replace the hot as well since I'm going to have to open the wall. I will leave the piping a little more outside so it can be changed if this happens again and buy the valve with the extension. At least I think that's what I need to do. What man is a man that does not make the world better. -Balian of Ibelin Only boring people get bored. - Ruth Burke | |||
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| Ammoholic |
That doesn't look like drywall. It looks like a plastic cover / housing. Pull the washer out of the way and have a good look. You may be able to remove a few screws and pull the cover off without having to do any drywall work. Agree that you may be able to unscrew the valves and replace, but please don't try it without holding whatever they are screwed into (preferably with an appropriate wrench, even a line wrench if they're in your toolbox, but channel locks can do in a pinch). Good luck! | |||
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| Member |
That's a plastic cover not drywall. There probably is enough flex in the pex that you can pull the plastic cover out enough to get to the valves/connections behind the plastic covers. | |||
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| stupid beyond all belief |
NO can do unfortunately Jimmy, the drain pipe is glued in, Since I have the dry wall open now, I am going to replace the hot valve as well. I have the new extended valves ready but the current ones are up against the plastic box and are a beast to get loosen. I have a second set of hands coming over. Once it gets loosened I will cut the Pex to desired length and use the new valves which should be much easier to tighten and as they will screw in well below the box. I love the shark bite stuff. I thought about smashing the plastic and just going brand new but it has become personal now  What man is a man that does not make the world better. -Balian of Ibelin Only boring people get bored. - Ruth Burke | |||
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| Nosce te ipsum |
I'm gonna hit Meridy's for a breakfast steak in a couple weeks. Russell is only 20 hours due west! | |||
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| stupid beyond all belief |
lol well that was interesting and a long problem to solve. So with the added wrench hand I got the valve loosened and undone. However, it also had an inaccessible plastic nut that could not be loosened. So after a little dremeling and drilling the nut broke off. Got the old valve out of there. Dropped the new valve with extended "hook-up" that left me plenty of room to wrench everything on and tie it to the pex via sharkbite. Dropped the dry wall in, good to go... As hard as the cold water was I didnt mess with the hot water hook up. Its a mismatch but I dont care. No to call the washer guy and fix the internal leak I have going on. Thanks everyone for the help and suggestions. What man is a man that does not make the world better. -Balian of Ibelin Only boring people get bored. - Ruth Burke | |||
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