quote:

Originally posted by PASig:

Oh screw you

No thanks, even though it's 2023, I don't swing that way.

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
If I’m wrong about stuff I post then I’ll shut up and go away.

Yet, you're still here.

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
But you seem to like going out of your way going after me like this, you’re still butthurt about that whole Pex vs Sharkbite thread no matter how you try to say otherwise it would seem.

You couldn't be further from the truth (which I've stated before).
I called your BS out in that thread, as I did in this thread.
Notice how both are HVAC related? Cuz I simply ignore your stupid ass shit in other threads. But I will continue to try help make the trades better.

quote:

Originally posted by PASig:
Congrats on being the first person to earn a spot on the ignore list since 2007, feel free to do the same buddy.

First, I'm not your buddy.

Second, if you can't stand the heat get out of the kitchen.

Third, only thin skinned people block the very people in which they could learn something from.

Forth, you might not see this or any of my future posts, but one thing is for sure... I will continue to call you out for the BS you post in HVAC related threads, as I will not let you mis-lead or mis-imform someone.

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:
I've never had algae buildup in any of my houses' condensate lines, despite only flushing with vinegar once a year. But I could see how doing it more often might be necessary in the far South.

I don't even have AC, but why not use bleach? It may not be advisable to have that sitting in the condensate tray (not sure), but I would think it would be more effective in keeping the condensate drain/line clear, wouldn't it?

quote:

Originally posted by nhracecraft:

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:
I've never had algae buildup in any of my houses' condensate lines, despite only flushing with vinegar once a year. But I could see how doing it more often might be necessary in the far South.

I don't even have AC, but why not use bleach? It may not be advisable to have that sitting in the condensate tray (not sure), but I would think it would be more effective in keeping the condensate drain/line clear, wouldn't it?

Sodium hypochlorite is very corrosive, I use the tablets made for this. I used to use bleach in my drain pan but it seemed to accelerate corrosion.

I initially used bleach, but was advised to switch to vinegar years ago. Vinegar has been just as effective, without the corrosive concerns of bleach.

I don't pour anything in the pan . The condensate drain has a vent sticking up and I pour an ounce or two in there . The drain is PVC so bleach won't hurt it .

Same here, I pour the vinegar into the open vent on the top of my drain line.

But while bleach won't hurt the PVC drain line itself, my condensate drain empties out ~6 inches away from my exterior condenser unit. The way it was explained to me, bleach droplets emptying out the drain can make it onto the exterior unit and corrode the metal there. Whereas vinegar is just as effective, and doesn't have that issue.

quote:

Originally posted by selogic:
I don't pour anything in the pan . The condensate drain has a vent sticking up and I pour an ounce or two in there . The drain is PVC so bleach won't hurt it.

This is/would be my understanding. If the Condensate Pan doesn't drain properly, that's obviously an issue, and one that would need to be corrected as that would lead to other issues. Assuming it drains properly, I wouldn't have suggested pouring bleach into the pan due to it's corrosive properties, especially since the life of the pan can be an issue, but rather, directly into the drain. To Rogue's point, maybe use a syringe? My question re: bleach is knowing that there is ZERO chance of mildew if you're using bleach. I'm not sure if that's the case w/ vinegar.

quote:

Originally posted by RogueJSK:
Same here, I pour the vinegar into the open vent on the top of my drain line.

But while bleach won't hurt the PVC drain line itself, my condensate drain empties out ~6 inches away from my exterior condenser unit. The way it was explained to me, bleach droplets emptying out the drain can make it onto the exterior unit and corrode the metal there. Whereas vinegar is just as effective, and doesn't have that issue.

My condensate drains into the sewer sytem of the house via a vent stack in the attic . Nothing goes outside .

I have the service plan with the company that installed the system. They come out twice a year and go over it. It is about $175.00 a year.
I do it for a couple of reasons;
1. I'm lazy, this way it ensures it gets done.
2. Its always fishing season here.
3. They do not charge me for emergency service calls and I get priority scheduling. Recently the control module for the air handler blower went out, we noticed it around 6am. It was fixed by 10am and I only paid for the new board.

OP: pardon the thread drift. I do think my question would add to the thread though.

A question for Excam_Man; Are Soft Start Kits for single/two speed HVAC systems a valuable upgrade/modification?

Your thoughts on the pros/cons would be appreciated.

Thanks.
-TVz

This thread was a good reminder. I took the covers off my two outside AC units to see what kind of capacitors and contactors were installed. Then went and ordered the parts to have on hand. Both units use the same contactor, but use different capacitors. I now have spares of those two parts. I've always wanted to order them but been too lazy.

Next I think I will order the Micro Air soft starter kit so I can start my AC with my generator in a power outage.

The Micro-Air starter kit is what I'm considering. I don't have a generator but having these would be a requirement for my situation.

-TVz

quote:

Originally posted by bubbatime:
This thread was a good reminder. I took the covers off my two outside AC units to see what kind of capacitors and contactors were installed. Then went and ordered the parts to have on hand. Both units use the same contactor, but use different capacitors. I now have spares of those two parts. I've always wanted to order them but been too lazy.

Same here . Weekend Crash Kit .

How much bleach or vinegar is needed for the lines? I’ve got three units, one in the attic drains via gravity, the other two have pumps. The main floor (largest) unit has had the trap clog up previously, but the others have never had an issue.

quote:

Originally posted by barndg00:
How much bleach or vinegar is needed for the lines? I’ve got three units, one in the attic drains via gravity, the other two have pumps. The main floor (largest) unit has had the trap clog up previously, but the others have never had an issue.

Most places seem to say 1/4 cup to 1 cup.

I just fill an empty water bottle mostly full from the gallon jug we have in the kitchen. I'm guessing about 12 ounces.
I pour it at the opening where the drain pan meets the PVC pipe, then flush it thoroughly with the garden hose.

Thanks, annual maintenance taken care of today. Sprayed out the outdoor coils (they were filthy!), trimmed the surrounding bushes, changed filters, and added vinegar to the condensate drains. Also, ordered a contactor to have on hand. I already had the necessary capacitors, but didn't think about the contactor, thankfully all three units use the same one, cheap insurance. I ordered the spare capacitors after one went out a year after we bought the house, and the HVAC tech was kind enough to explain what happened and how to change it myself if it happened again. Of course, now nearly 12 years later, since I'm prepared, they've been fine.

Having a spare capacitor and contactor is what I personally consider a minimum, they are pretty easily swapped end user parts. Plus, I'm an electrical guy, which means I keep nails around that compliment my hammer.

Just a quick note on contactors:
Always replace with like parts, which sounds overly simple, but it may not be.
The spare I purchased is clearly marked on the box as a 1 pole contactor. But it's actually NOT. On the device itself it's marked "2P-30A", which means it's actually a 2 pole 30A contactor. If you remove a cover over the contacts, you can actually see both sets of contacts. Both poles are being switched...

Why that matters:
A lot of manufacturers use that un-switched pole to power the crankcase heater, via a thermostat. This matters in colder climates where this heater is required/installed to prevent pooling of refrigerant, which greatly reduces compressor life. You may replace the contactor to "fix" your system, but accidentally doom it to early failure.

Work-around:
Most HVAC guys will carry 2 pole contactors, but on applications that require only 1 switched pole, shunt/jumper that leg on the contactor.

If you're unsure, by all means replace it to get your system running, but contact a qualified service guy as soon as reasonably possible to verify your work.

Do the outside coils need any cleaning agent or is spraying with plain water ok?

I've always just used plain water, but I stay on top of my maintenance by rinsing the coil 1-2 times per year. If it's been years since yours was cleaned, a cleaning agent might be more necessary.

Be sure to just use a normal hose nozzle on something like the flat or spray setting, not a jet nozzle or especially a pressure washer. The fins are flimsy and easily bent, including by just high pressure water.