The shower head supply pipe is too short for a new handheld shower head. The pipe is 22 years old and likely stuck in a fitting behind the wall.

The fitting may not be properly anchored to a stud.

The pipes are plastic crimped to metal.

I could use a wrench to remove, but fear it being stuck will mean I twist the entire fitting and fracture the in wall pipe, or create a leak at a crimp.

Would it be better to use extension to locate shower head away from wall?

I would prefer a new through wall pipe about four inches longer. I also worry that the new pipe will not seal to its fitting and be oriented vertically as well.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: 4MUL8R,

Cut an opening in the drywall behind the shower head then you’ll know.

Most showerheads are piped from the control up and to an 90° that has ear(called a drop eared 90)and are nailed to a backer board or brace a 2x4 or some sort. Then threaded out to the shower head
In this pic you are looking at the drop eared 90° that’s threaded, from the shower side.

You can remove the thru wall pipe, buy a longer one, add Teflon tape and just thread it into the existing threaded90°.

God speed 4MUL8R. Plumbing looks so simple but I have had little success in my plumbing projects. When I moved my shower head I used PEX connections (rented the tools). I also used a TON of WD-40 and patience to free up the old connections. That was a success, don't ask me about my failures. Patience worked very well for me but we didn't need the shower the next morning nor did we need to turn off the water to the house.

What you describe sounds link Polybutylene Piping, but that was banned in 1995. Are you sure on the material/connection method? Definitely not PEX? If Polybutylene, you risk opening a can of worms screwing around behind the wall, so I'd tread VERY lightly! That said, if the 'showerhead supply pipe'/thru-wall extension is connected to a metal fitting in a plastic piping system, it would most certainly need to be properly anchored to a stud/brace as 'MikeinNC' indicates. Do you have access (or can you create access?) on the other side of the wall?

Also if you're intending to install a handheld shower head, I'm not following the need for a longer supply pipe as the handheld shower head would have a relatively long hose connected to it, and certainly that could be swapped out for something longer if needed. It could be me, but your mention of a 'new through wall pipe' while having concerns on vertical orientation is confusing as the orientation of pipe would/should be horizontal, correct?

Pics would VERY beneficial here...

Is your pipe gray or black? If not, then it's probably PEX. Poly-b was mostly gray and black. It is also stamped PB. It is most likely done up just like MikeinNC pictured. His pic shows a PEX-A connection. Most homeowners will be working with PEX-B, which uses a copper or SS crimp ring instead of expanding the pipe over the fitting. The tool for PEX-A is pricey.

Most likely you will be able to unscrew the pipe and screw in another.

I have replaced one of these and, if you are like me. you're always fearful, expecting the old thing will twist and collapse. I put a rag around a long screwdriver, slipped it into the pipe and just sort of carefully started to try to start a turn, gauging the effort needed. Before it did turn, it had to sort of pop loose. Then, using the screwdriver for leverage, it turned right out.

I finally found and ordered an 'S' shaped replacement that moved the output both up about 4 inches and away from the wall about 3 inches.
So it doesn't drip on the faucet and controls.

Moving it up 4 inches was necessary for my main objective, being able to stand under the shower head without crouching.

Definitely worth the effort.

quote:

Originally posted by MikeinNC:
Most showerheads are piped from the control up and to an 90° that has ear(called a drop eared 90)and are nailed to a backer board or brace a 2x4 or some sort.

This.

Sounds like you're worried about it being loose, but have you tried give the existing extension arm a rattle/pull, to actually verify how loose or secure it is?

quote:

Cut an opening in the drywall behind the shower head then you’ll know.

Or by sliding the escutcheon plate down a bit (you may or may not need to use a utility knife to slice some silicone around the outside of the plate), you may be able to see inside and verify that it's secured to a backer, without having to cut further into the wall. Depends on how much of a gap they left in the wall for the arm.

I've replaced several, and all had elbows that were screwed in place, even with PEX supply pipes. Like so:


So all I had to do was just unscrew the old extension and install a new one (don't forget the teflon tape).

Like 83v45magna said, I like to use a padded long screwdriver, rather than a wrench that will mar up the outside of the exposed arm.

Thanks everyone