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| You're going to feel a little pressure... |
I have built a reloading table on a Kreg base with a maple butcher block top 25" x 96". I'm looking for ideas on the work surface wood finish. So far, I've given it 3 coats of Danish oil, sanding twice. The color is beautiful and the top is fairly smooth. My question is: What to do next? I want the surface to be durable, water resistant, and clean up easily. Would you put Butcher's Wax over it, after several days of curing? It's good enough for bowling alleys. Shellac? Polyurethane? One more sanding and another coat of Danish oil and call it good? I still haven't figured out a new way to post pics so email me if anyone wants to post pics for me  Bruce "The designer of the gun had clearly not been instructed to beat about the bush. 'Make it evil,' he'd been told. 'Make it totally clear that this gun has a right end and a wrong end. Make it totally clear to anyone standing at the wrong end that things are going badly for them. If that means sticking all sort of spikes and prongs and blackened bits all over it then so be it. This is not a gun for hanging over the fireplace or sticking in the umbrella stand, it is a gun for going out and making people miserable with." -Douglas Adams “It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free." -Niccolo Machiavelli The trouble with fighting for human freedom is that one spends most of one's time defending scoundrels. For it is against scoundrels that oppressive laws are first aimed, and oppression must be stopped at the beginning if it is to be stopped at all. -Mencken | ||
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| Member |
I wouldn’t do anything more. Over time, should it get dirty you can use solvent or sand it and then put on more danish oil. | |||
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| Stuck on himself |
For a workbench-grade finish I’d do a couple coats of satin poly and call it good. Probably would’ve skipped the danish oil but it certainly didn’t hurt the aesthetics I imagine. Then again I don’t care if my reloading brass is shiny either.  | |||
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Member |
Couple coats of tung oil, use nitrile gloves then rub it down with oooo steel wool. Touch it up as needed. | |||
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| Member |
I'd stick with the oil. Workbenches get scratched, gouged, burned, etc. No finish can really hold up to the abuse, so I like something that can be sanded and touched up easily. Danish Oil works well for that | |||
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| Just because you can, doesn't mean you should |
I found some that were kind of beat up. I sanded them until I got all the marks out and coated with 3-4 coats of polyurethane, sanded between coats. They look great, better than the original oiled finish. ___________________________ Avoid buying ChiCom/CCP products whenever possible. | |||
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| You're going to feel a little pressure... |
The Danish oil is purty. Bruce "The designer of the gun had clearly not been instructed to beat about the bush. 'Make it evil,' he'd been told. 'Make it totally clear that this gun has a right end and a wrong end. Make it totally clear to anyone standing at the wrong end that things are going badly for them. If that means sticking all sort of spikes and prongs and blackened bits all over it then so be it. This is not a gun for hanging over the fireplace or sticking in the umbrella stand, it is a gun for going out and making people miserable with." -Douglas Adams “It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free." -Niccolo Machiavelli The trouble with fighting for human freedom is that one spends most of one's time defending scoundrels. For it is against scoundrels that oppressive laws are first aimed, and oppression must be stopped at the beginning if it is to be stopped at all. -Mencken | |||
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| Green grass and high tides  |
Attach sheet metal  "Practice like you want to play in the game" | |||
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quarter MOA visionary |
Since you already used Danish Oil I would stop there. If you Poly over the top it will scratch up and be harder to touch up. If it is just for show and not use the a top coat is fine. When it wears down just touch it up. I would have used Waterlox on bare wood and touch up as you go. If you do poly the top I's use General Finishes Enduro-Var poly but make sure your Danish oil is completely dried out as the Enduro-Var is water Based and much harder than oil based Poly. | |||
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| Ammoholic |
Did that with the shop on Mom’s ranch. It has some definite advantages for a shop surface. If doing it again, I’d use stainless or at least galvanized rather than the mild I did last time. Don’t think I’d use a metal top on a reloading bench though. I have no experience reloading, but it occurs that any sparks from a metal tool dropped or scraped across a metal surface might be unwelcome in a reloading environment. I’d go with polyurethane, but that’s just me. | |||
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Alea iacta est |
Danish oil. Done. I have a park bench that I did years ago in danish oil. Many a year of Washington state weather it endured. Still looks great, aside of where I got too close with the pressure washer. Now it gets the opposite and has to battle the AZ sun. Might refinish it when I get a house that is my own, and I’m not in a damn rental. Hopefully that is soon. =) The “lol” thread | |||
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| Member |
Pour table top epoxy on it, it will self level to a very smooth, very durable surface, that's easy to clean. Like this www.bestbartopepoxy.com/table-...in%20-%20Table%20Top | |||
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Quit staring at my wife's Butt |
by danish oil I'm guessing watco ? if so make sure you don't pile those rags up in a trash can or you wont have a shop to come home to. they will burn all by themselves. | |||
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| You're going to feel a little pressure... |
Yup, and thanks for the reminder. Rags are laying out flat on the rocks, outside. Bruce "The designer of the gun had clearly not been instructed to beat about the bush. 'Make it evil,' he'd been told. 'Make it totally clear that this gun has a right end and a wrong end. Make it totally clear to anyone standing at the wrong end that things are going badly for them. If that means sticking all sort of spikes and prongs and blackened bits all over it then so be it. This is not a gun for hanging over the fireplace or sticking in the umbrella stand, it is a gun for going out and making people miserable with." -Douglas Adams “It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free." -Niccolo Machiavelli The trouble with fighting for human freedom is that one spends most of one's time defending scoundrels. For it is against scoundrels that oppressive laws are first aimed, and oppression must be stopped at the beginning if it is to be stopped at all. -Mencken | |||
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| You're going to feel a little pressure... |
That looks pretty neat and easy to clean. I don't know if I would like the feel of it. "Wood under glass" just doesn't feel like wood, anymore. I think the Danish oil will be it. Bruce "The designer of the gun had clearly not been instructed to beat about the bush. 'Make it evil,' he'd been told. 'Make it totally clear that this gun has a right end and a wrong end. Make it totally clear to anyone standing at the wrong end that things are going badly for them. If that means sticking all sort of spikes and prongs and blackened bits all over it then so be it. This is not a gun for hanging over the fireplace or sticking in the umbrella stand, it is a gun for going out and making people miserable with." -Douglas Adams “It is just as difficult and dangerous to try to free a people that wants to remain servile as it is to try to enslave a people that wants to remain free." -Niccolo Machiavelli The trouble with fighting for human freedom is that one spends most of one's time defending scoundrels. For it is against scoundrels that oppressive laws are first aimed, and oppression must be stopped at the beginning if it is to be stopped at all. -Mencken | |||
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Go Vols! |
My workbench has a couple coats of satin poly. It’s not thick. It’s not going to chip off or anything. It cleans up easily. | |||
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| Member |
It's super easy to clean. It's epoxy and strong. Usually you put enough that when it dries, it is a smooth surface and the epoxy is thick so you're right you don't have any wood grain feel to it. It's very popular here in Florida on tables used at restaurants that have water on them and people dropping stuff on them all of the time. One chain (Flanigans) puts marine charts and pictures on the table and seals it in the epoxy. It's pretty cool, but doesn't sound what you're looking for https://www.bing.com/images/se...ist=0&vt=0&eim=1,2,6 You could use West system epoxy (or similar) and do it thinner and still have the wood grain feel, but protection of a very durable surface. The beauty of finishes these days and wood, is there are so many options you can do depending on the desired result. | |||
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