It seems my laundry water valve is leaking. Please help....

1) I'm looking at HD website and there are 1000 valves. I'm scrolling through but not sure what type of valve I'm looking for.

What type of vavle is this? Do I want to replace with the same or something different (like a ball valve)?

2) Only the cold is leaking but should I just fix / replace both? Or just the one?

3) Is this something where I repair the valve with new parts (keep the valve in place and just take off the top and replace parts)? Or do I replace the valve?

4) If replace the valve, what does it entail? Is it some standard like pipe thread? Do I use the plumbing thread compound or Teflon tape? Is there something to use a wrench (nut) on both the pipe side and the valve side>?

I would just go to HD and show them pictures, they can give you valve.
Turn off water to house, use backup wrench on fixture, and unscrew valve. Wrap with Teflon tape or pipe dope, and install new one.

Is valve leaking, or possible that hose is loose?

I would replace hoses with SS braided while you are doing this anyway.

Good luck.

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Originally posted by Dreamerx4:
Is valve leaking, or possible that hose is loose?

Or possibly gasket inside the hose. Does it leak in the OFF position? If no you can look inside the hose? I can't really see any water.

If it is leaking from under the handle there may be a packing nut you can tighten up.

It *looks* like the valve unscrews from a female adaptor which is mounted to the box. If that is the case, then the valve can be removed, and a "regular boiler drain", like a ½" hose cock, can be put in its place.

In my house I have a pair of exposed copper pipes with ball valves on them leading to two ½" sweat x female elles. Then there are regular hose bibs screwed into the elles. If I ever have to change a washing machine supply valve, I can shut off the water at the ball valve and unscrew the hose valve from the female elle. Extra work to install, and I've never needed it.

Those "ready boxes" for newer construction, I've never been a big fan of them. But I do not do new construction, where everything is geared to fast and cheap.

My brother has a similar valve (but a single lever) which started leaking. The local DYI had one of the same manufacture but 15 years newer. Sure enough, I could not swap parts. Had to cut the old one out and put the new one in with fresh copper fittings.

Most of those washing machine boxes are soldered into the valve. You will need to open up the wall under the box to tell for sure.
I do not believe that type of valve has any way to tighten the packing/stuffing around the stem. If it is indeed leaking out the top of the valve and NOT around where the hose goes onto the valve, the valve will need replaced.

Thanks guys. Ok, got a plumber on the way since I can't solder. Looks like the valves are sold as kits including the surrounding white box.

Buy and install two of these (your water line looks to be a 1/2" female connection)... https://www.homedepot.com/p/Ev...2113-_-205811593-_-N and replace the hoses with stainless braided ones and call it a day.

The drywall below the valve is wet - I can press it in a little. The floor is wet in some areas - not flooded but there are wet areas where the water is coming through the wall near under the baseboard I think.

The paint is a little bubbled below the valve.

Am I going to have to replace and paint the dry wall? Or can I just put a heater and fan in the area and dry it out? I don't care about cosmetics much (it's behind the washer). But just wondering if the dry wall is shot or if it'll dry out fine.

quote:

Am I going to have to replace and paint the dry wall? Or can I just put a heater and fan in the area and dry it out? I don't care about cosmetics much (it's behind the washer). But just wondering if the dry wall is shot or if it'll dry out fine

Depends on how long it has been leaking. I had a similar problem, hit it with Kilz and repainted with no problem. If you have a plumber coming change the hoses as noted above. Since the big charge is for the trip, think of anything else you need done while he is there.

I think it's been leaking about 3-4 days. Fast drip? The floor is not completely covered in water but there are areas where the water has pooled.

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I think it's been leaking about 3-4 days. Fast drip? The floor is not completely covered in water but there are areas where the water has pooled.

Should be fine. Be sure it dries before you use Kilz.

Cool. Thanks.

I'm just hoping we don't need to move the Speed Queen. If we do, that might be a problem. I'm not sure the plumber and I can move it alone. It must weigh > 200 / 250 lbs.

Plumber fixed it. Turns out, the top was a removable valve (above the white plastic) that just screws onto the pipe (pipe thread).

Just replaced both the hot and cold valves w/ new ones.

$200. Wasn't sure if I should include an 'emergency' fee and/or 'holiday' fee. Or maybe it's built into the cost? I figure the materials were about $30. So, $170 for 1 hour of labor (plus transit time/costs)?

Anyway, he always does a good job albeit a little pricey. Fixed and done. Whew.

Part of the price is education - I think I can do it myself next time.

I've replaced two sets now myself. Both times with an Oatey kit from Lowe's.

https://www.lowes.com/pd/Oatey...-Outlet-Box/50163627

It does require soldering and some drywall work for access below the box.

Looks like your hoses are basic rubber ones, I believe cheap hoses are the weak point and cause of most laundry room floods. Might want to look at upgrading to better quality stainless steel lines, they're not that much more expensive.

Have you thought about replacing the hoses?

I’ve used the stainless steel hoses and have been very happy with them.

Should have had him replace those rubber hoses with braided stainless steel ones, as has been suggested.

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So, $170 for 1 hour of labor (plus transit time/costs)?

Anyway, he always does a good job albeit a little pricey. Fixed and done. Whew.

Part of the price is education - I think I can do it myself next time.

Overhead is higer than you'd think. In a friend's area a basic handyman is a flat $65/hr, from the moment he walks in the door, and bills the same for getting material.

Nearby an electrician is so busy he has a strict 2 mile rule. He takes no work more than 2 miles from his house.

The thing about the valves, spinning a valve out of its female adaptor, is properly holding back on the adaptor while you spin the valve. Lest the whole pipe turns and breaks the copper to which it is attached. Or, God forbid, a PEX line. Then the reverse for spinning the new valve into the adaptor.

A good first project is replacing a hose bib outside. Or a trap on a laundry tub.

Two pair of ChannelLocks, Models 430 and 440, are the usual tools (or two pair of 430s).

stainless steel braided hoses are a good Idea.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K...e9-8b23-7f522031bab0

in the 60's they made very good rubber washer fill hoses ,

but
like almost everything else, quality , since then has diminished.

I am surprised the plumber did not recommend these ( above, )for another $55.00.

this swap you will be able to do yourself.

hand tighten them with your fingers , then another 1/3 - 1/4 turn with the pliers.

do not over tighten !

Hi guys,

So the valves and leak are fixed. The drywall below the valves got soaked. This is an exterior wall so the insulation probably got soaked (like a sponge?) too. I've had a fan on the wall for several days and the water meter (pinless) is measuring 100% in the area still.

Need some help on what to do. Seems like I should hire a drywall guy to come out and remove the drywall below the valve. Dry out the wall area with a fan for a few days then have the insulation and drywall replaced and painted. I'm guessing this is about $50 parts, $450 labor (3 hours work?) - $500 job?

1) I have about 3-4" baseboard at the floor. Should I be having that removed as well or is cutting the drywall above the baseboard sufficient?

2) I suspect that the water in the wall made its way to the right, past a 2x4 stud and behind a sink/cabinet in the laundry room. The sink is right next to the washer. Am I going to have to demo the cabinet and replace the insulation and drywall behind the cabinet? Or do you think I can get it sufficiently dry once I open up the wall behind the washer?

Thanks guys.

ETA: I don't care about cosmetics much. My real concern is mold. Is mold really a big concern in this type of case? It's tap water which is a bit chlorinated, right? If it was just a week's worth of leaking, do I just need to let it dry out (may take weeks)? Or do I really need to replace the wall and insulation? I'm leaning toward the latter to be safe but could really benefit in not having a spendy repair if not needed. What if I drilled some holes into the dry wall and rented a dehumidifier?

ETA2: Oh, btw, I had the plumber look at the hoses and he said they looked new (they are new - installed last year w/ the Speed Queen). I asked about replacing them and he suggested to just use them for another few years and then replace them.

I had something similar happen a few years ago. I tore out the drywall in the affected area and removed base trim and insulation. I dried everything out with a fan, installed new insulation. I then cut a piece of plywood to fit back in the hole instead of drywall. Now I have an access panel instead of drywall in case something happens again in the future. I painted both sides of the plywood so it will not absorb water. It is completely covered by the washer / dryer so you cannot see it.