So, at 56, I am looking to build a 1BR 1 bath metal building with living quarters inside. I will live in this about half the year and the rest I will be overseas. I have NO experience with metal buildings, barndominiums if you will. I need about 1300 sq feet living space and a shop space able to park two cars in. I am thinking a 30x60, 29 gauge steel so far.
Any suggestions , I have even considered making it ADA compliant for the future. i am just needing suggestions as to best method of build and Do's and Donts.

thank you !

This message has been edited. Last edited by: golddot,

Sounds like a good game plan. Except 1300 sq. ft is plenty of room for 2 bedrooms. I would definitely do that.

Actually I would do 1200' of living area. Still plenty for two bedrooms and do 600' of garage space.
I would also consider 12' walls and do 10x10' garage doors.

I have 14' walls and 12x12 garage doors and love it.

Best of luck.

Put the dryer vent on an outside wall.

No roof penetrations for anything. Take it all out through a wall. Standing seam roof. Make sure the corner trim and soffits are well constructed to prevent water intrusion in the living area. Barn construction is often just enough to keep most of the weather out. Rock wool insulation for sound deadening. Go the extra mile on the floor slab, thickness, flatness, good reinforcement.

All good suggestions. I think I'd go 2 bedrooms as well in case of a house guest and for resale. 9' ceiling seems proportional for a 1200' house. Personally I like at least 12" overhangs and an 8' deep covered porch. Insulate it well and heat/cool with a couple mini splits.

Making it ADA is an excellent idea.
I'd also oversize the garage. On the custom home we built we went 3' wider and longer. Makes a huge difference in the functionality of a garage and its cheap space to build. Plenty of electrical outlets in the garage as well.
Have you ever heard anyone complain about having too much garage space?
Especially with this being a seasonal home where you may need the extra stroage space.

All great indes fellas ! thats what I love about SF, so much wisdom here , I am considering "upping" the space in the garage,

as to the concrete, what PSI? 4" or 6"
Also will have gas heat AND a wood burning stove , but I guess it needs to go on the outside wall and NOT thru the roof ??

I will want to park both of my "good" cars in there while I am away travelling, I also thought about having my washer dryer out here to cut down on noise and heat.
I really need pointers on the metal building, such as
welded VS bolted
also why do they not put the large frame steel poles INTO the concrete foundation versus just bolting them down ?!?

If you are thinking about a vehicle lift for the garage, then you should check out the concrete requirements for the lift you are thinking about.

Assuming you are ordering a prefab building, the guys assembling the building have no control over the concrete work. It's easier for them to bolt it down rather than adjust all the prefab parts if the poles are not in the right places.

You can put the stove exhaust thru the wall, we did it n the mountains, but dad had to put the stack up even with the roofline (2stories up) to get it to draft away from the side of the first floor, the stove was in the basement.

Or that can be to only roof penetration besides vent for plumbing. But definitely put the washer and dryer against an exterior wall and go thru it. It’s more efficient for the dryer.

Here’s my list
6” walls
Sprayed closed foam insulation
ADA doors (lever vs knob)
Smooth transition shower
Polished concrete or vinyl plank (easy cleaning)
Insulation around the bathroom and solid door(cuts down toilet noise)
More garage than you think-long enough to park a f150 super cab with long bed
Frost free exterior faucets (it does freeze in TX)

Trapper, no lift nedeed. just a place out of the weather from the rain and rats to keep my car in good shape,

maybe a dumb question, but i thought bolting down steel to concrete would not be structurally sound?

and yes MikenNC, will most likely go thru the wall , my current home has the hole thru the roof and in VERY bad rain (once a year maybe) it will leak a bit

the good news is I have a budget that allows me to purchase quality items and cost it not to big of a deal. I want this house to last 30 years

I have also considered buying commercial grade appliances

I’ll echo the standing seam (hidden fastener) for the roof, 100%. Ag metal with neoprene washer exposed fasteners always ends up leaking, at least a little. It’s not if, it’s when and how much. We even had a manufacturer rep cautioning us against using ag metal on homes, or buildings with finished interiors.

I am assuming it will be a pitch roof. Do 5/12. Looks better than 3 or 4/12. You will want to put your stove pipe through the roof.
No one in wood burning country goes out the side.
If you build with high walls you will be able to put a lean two on the side(s). You cannot have too much covered space and it will be cheap to do so. Just gravel the covered area.
I would not kit it. Ours have been built with 6x6" treated posts and real wood heavy trusse's. I also framed in the walls with 2x6" lumber in a grid pattern and used R19 insulation. Put a 2x6 ceiling in it and blew in ceiling insulation also. I have 14' walls. Put 4x8' sheets of plywood vertical from the floor up. Then sheet rocked the other 6' and sheet rocked the ceiling as well. Have 3 12x12' insulated garage doors.Metal roof and wood sheeted exterior. Has been up for over 20. Has been a great building and still is.

quote:

maybe a dumb question, but i thought bolting down steel to concrete would not be structurally sound?

I really don’t know, but a professional engineer signed off that ours is rated for 160mph winds, the county building department approved it, and it’s survived two hurricanes so far.

This one was definitely made to be installed by a small crew with limited experience who would have had zero ability or capability to deal with the initial concrete work not being right.

I had a steel building franchise as part of my construction company several years ago. Let me address a few issues that have been brought up.

The reason your metal frame is not sunk into the concrete is because the steel is not designed to be immersed into concrete. It will eventually rust. Secondly, the rebar requirements for each “post” will likely go down several feet into the ground and tie into the rest of the slab.

I’m curious why you are choosing 29 gauge sheeting. We used 26 gauge almost exclusively. Be sure to check what is required in your area.

You might want to investigate a Galvalume roof. It will last much longer that conventional roof sheeting and IMHO it’s worth the upcharge.

You should seriously consider insulating the whole building. The heat from these metal buildings can be intense. You would then add additional insulation to the living quarters to make it more comfortable.

wow, so so much good info here,
i considered the heavier guage as I thought i tmay last longer?

i have done some research and understand (a bit) better as to why NOT to put the steel in concrete

Do i need to have 18" footers ? a freind stated this and I am not sure what that entails,

I will research the Galvalume roof also, and YES I would much rather the wood burning stove go out the roof

Outnumbered and ORC, great info thank you for chiming in

I feel like dirt work/prep and concrete should be first order of biz , I also have scheduled an appt with a architect