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My 2010 Tundra has an issue with the rear possibly going bad and while its been a good truck the cost to rebuild the rear came in at around 3600 bucks and from my perspective it doesn't make sense to spend that kind of money on a truck that is 15 years old and has some rust issues underneath. Local dealer has a low mileage, 58000, 2015 Ram Big Horn that looks like a nice truck. Any issues regarding the 2015 RAM with hemi engine, any known faults to be aware of? I use the truck to haul/tow my bike out west from PA so need something reliable that's going to last another 75000-100000 miles without becoming a money pit. My daily driver is a Toyota Camry so the RAM won't be driven everyday. Im also looking at a used 25 Tundra for 45 grand with just under 5000 miles and a brand new 2025 RAM 1500 Tradesman with the V6 for 41 grand. Since Im retired Id rather not have a 800 dollar per month car payment for the next 5 years.
 
Posts: 2181 | Location: USA | Registered: December 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I would do a search online for problems that people are having with the Ram. Your current Toyota will have the need for parts to be replaced, and that's only because of wear and tear, and age of vehicle. If you add up the cost of a rear end rebuild and other miscellaneous things needing to be replaced, it's still cheaper than buying a new truck. I'm a little biased because I have a 2012 4Runner which is still going strong.
 
Posts: 2346 | Location: Fitchburg, WI | Registered: March 24, 2009Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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For a used vehicle with miles, the key will be service records. Without that it's a crap shoot. And check to see the vehicle ever lived in the rust belt. That would be a hard no for me. Once its been in the rust belt that's kills the deal. 58k miles is a good package, but if they never chaned the oil or only changed it every 20k miles, that's a hard no, as an example. Whatever you do pay a trusted mechanic real money to check out the engine and drivetrain deeply, including scoping under the valve cover for cleanliness vs sludge (bad oil change intervales, a dead giveaway), comprehensive computer anlysis of fule trims, o2 sensors, the whole nine yards. Out of spec parameters or lots of edge case parameters show zero maintenances since it left the factory. Those kinds of things. But a well maintained truck at 58k miles is a solid package IF all of those things are good, notwithstanding your own research about that particular year/model/engine issues, like the recent recall of GM trucks with the big V8 with improperly ground/cleaned piston rod bearings that destroyed engines, etc.

And whatever you do, do not use manufacturer recomended oil change intervals and super-light viscosity ratings. Most of those specified recommendations in the US are pure bullshit. And, don't ignore all the other fluis, like pretty much everybody does.




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Posts: 9995 | Location: Nowhere the constitution is not honored | Registered: February 01, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by wrightd:
For a used vehicle with miles, the key will be service records. Without that it's a crap shoot. And check to see the vehicle ever lived in the rust belt. That would be a hard no for me. Once its been in the rust belt that's kills the deal. 58k miles is a good package, but if they never chaned the oil or only changed it every 20k miles, that's a hard no, as an example. Whatever you do pay a trusted mechanic real money to check out the engine and drivetrain deeply, including scoping under the valve cover for cleanliness vs sludge (bad oil change intervales, a dead giveaway), comprehensive computer anlysis of fule trims, o2 sensors, the whole nine yards. Out of spec parameters or lots of edge case parameters show zero maintenances since it left the factory. Those kinds of things. But a well maintained truck at 58k miles is a solid package IF all of those things are good, notwithstanding your own research about that particular year/model/engine issues, like the recent recall of GM trucks with the big V8 with improperly ground/cleaned piston rod bearings that destroyed engines, etc.

And whatever you do, do not use manufacturer recomended oil change intervals and super-light viscosity ratings. Most of those specified recommendations in the US are pure bullshit. And, don't ignore all the other fluis, like pretty much everybody does.


Good info and if I go with the 2015 RAM I will definitely take it to my mechanic for a detailed inspection plus do a Google search for known issues for that MY. I always get the oil changed at 5000 miles on my vehicles just to be safe. I'll also ask for maintenance records and that online FOX report. I swung by the dealership this evening and the truck does look like its in good shape but couldn't look underneath the body or hood.
 
Posts: 2181 | Location: USA | Registered: December 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by ptruck:
I would do a search online for problems that people are having with the Ram. Your current Toyota will have the need for parts to be replaced, and that's only because of wear and tear, and age of vehicle. If you add up the cost of a rear end rebuild and other miscellaneous things needing to be replaced, it's still cheaper than buying a new truck. I'm a little biased because I have a 2012 4Runner which is still going strong.


You're correct in that the cost to rebuild my Tundra is significantly cheaper than buying a new car but Im not sure its wise to drop almost 4 grand into a truck that's 15 years old and just over 120000 miles. My concern with repairing my Tundra is once I get it fixed will I be faced with another costly repair a year or two from now? I got lots to think about and need to weigh all my options before making a decision.
 
Posts: 2181 | Location: USA | Registered: December 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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My Tacoma has 234,000 miles. Your Tundra should be good for that after the repair. I’d have your mechanic do a “new vehicle “ inspection on your Tundra to see if you have anything else facing you down the line. If not, I’d fix it and save the money.


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Posts: 12980 | Registered: October 13, 2002Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Chrysler sucks. We've had every type of electrical issue imagineable with our 2016 and 2018 Rams at work, as well as cooling system issues and very expensive suspension problems. That Bighorn is also going to be loaded with all manner of fancy doodads that will break as well, if they aren't broken already.

If your Toyota is otherwise solid, $3600 is a drop in the bucket compared to the price of a new vehicle. 120K miles is barely broken in and absolutely no reason to walk away from it if you've been maintaining it properly (especially considering it's a second vehicle that you're not driving every day). And even if you do have to do some more repairs in the next couple of years you'll likely still be money ahead compared to the purchase price of a "new" used truck that may well have its own looming issues.


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Posts: 11885 | Location: In the Cornfields | Registered: May 25, 2006Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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If the rear end is bad you'll have to sell or trade it for less than if it was in good shape or rebuilt. So I think I'd rebuild the rear end and keep the Tundra. No way I'd buy a newer Tundra with the problematic turbo V6.

For a new 1/2 ton I'd probably buy a Ram 1500 with the turbo I-6.


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Posts: 8414 | Location: Northern WV | Registered: January 17, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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You say your Toyota has an “issue with the rear end possibly going bad”. I’d take it to a couple of additional shops to have it diagnosed before I bought a replacement vehicle. You might just have a bad U joint or transmission mount. You also might find that the rear end can be rebuilt, if necessary, for less than the price you were quoted.

If I was going to pay something to move from a Toyota I know the history of to a Dodge I don’t, there’d have to be a definite reason.
 
Posts: 27702 | Location: SW of Hovey, Texas | Registered: January 30, 2007Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by calugo:
quote:
Originally posted by ptruck:
I would do a search online for problems that people are having with the Ram. Your current Toyota will have the need for parts to be replaced, and that's only because of wear and tear, and age of vehicle. If you add up the cost of a rear end rebuild and other miscellaneous things needing to be replaced, it's still cheaper than buying a new truck. I'm a little biased because I have a 2012 4Runner which is still going strong.


You're correct in that the cost to rebuild my Tundra is significantly cheaper than buying a new car but Im not sure its wise to drop almost 4 grand into a truck that's 15 years old and just over 120000 miles. My concern with repairing my Tundra is once I get it fixed will I be faced with another costly repair a year or two from now? I got lots to think about and need to weigh all my options before making a decision.


You only have 120k miles on the Tundra? Absolutely replace the rear end. You would be doing yourself no favors going to a Ram or any other pick up for that matter.

If you are at all mechanically inclined you can easily remove your center housing and take it to a shop for the rebuild and reinstall yourself saving you a decent chunk of money.


————————————————
The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad.
If we got each other, and that's all we have.
I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand.
You should know I'll be there for you!
 
Posts: 26813 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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All these repair options depend on how bad this "rust issue" is. If not structural (holes or cracks in the frame, cab collapsing, etc.) then absolutely repair it. Even the high figure of $3600 is three payments (out of 60, 72 or even more). The U-bolts holding the diff to the leaf spring might give some trouble. And I sure wouldn't pick a Ram as a replacement.





"The Almighty, He put some livin' things on this earth so a man can eat." - Festus Haggen, Gunsmoke
 
Posts: 31682 | Location: Johnson City, TN | Registered: April 28, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Toyota to Dodge isn’t normally a wise move.
 
Posts: 7443 | Location: WI | Registered: February 29, 2012Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Never been a Dodge fan myself but given GM, Ford, and Toyota's various engine problems, Ford and GM's transmission problems, it's the lesser of the evils now.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DyWlnvQFKK4


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Posts: 8414 | Location: Northern WV | Registered: January 17, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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As for $3600 that is likely to rebuild/replace the entire rear end from Axle to Axle. Which from the sounds of it is not needed. Just rebuilding the 3rd member should not cost that much.

quote:
Originally posted by egregore:
All these repair options depend on how bad this "rust issue" is. If not structural (holes or cracks in the frame, cab collapsing, etc.) then absolutely repair it. Even the high figure of $3600 is three payments (out of 60, 72 or even more). The U-bolts holding the diff to the leaf spring might give some trouble. And I sure wouldn't pick a Ram as a replacement.


There is no reason to remove the whole axle housing.
Just remove the 3rd member clamshell assembly, the it to be rebuilt and reinstall.



————————————————
The world's not perfect, but it's not that bad.
If we got each other, and that's all we have.
I will be your brother, and I'll hold your hand.
You should know I'll be there for you!
 
Posts: 26813 | Registered: September 06, 2003Reply With QuoteReport This Post
Master-at-Arms
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quote:
Originally posted by Black92LX:
quote:
Originally posted by calugo:
quote:
Originally posted by ptruck:
I would do a search online for problems that people are having with the Ram. Your current Toyota will have the need for parts to be replaced, and that's only because of wear and tear, and age of vehicle. If you add up the cost of a rear end rebuild and other miscellaneous things needing to be replaced, it's still cheaper than buying a new truck. I'm a little biased because I have a 2012 4Runner which is still going strong.


You're correct in that the cost to rebuild my Tundra is significantly cheaper than buying a new car but Im not sure its wise to drop almost 4 grand into a truck that's 15 years old and just over 120000 miles. My concern with repairing my Tundra is once I get it fixed will I be faced with another costly repair a year or two from now? I got lots to think about and need to weigh all my options before making a decision.


You only have 120k miles on the Tundra? Absolutely replace the rear end. You would be doing yourself no favors going to a Ram or any other pick up for that matter.

If you are at all mechanically inclined you can easily remove your center housing and take it to a shop for the rebuild and reinstall yourself saving you a decent chunk of money.


This!



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Posts: 7620 | Location: Stuck in NY, FUAC  | Registered: November 22, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have a 2019 Ram 1500 with the V6 and have had no issues, the thing that made me go to Ram is the 8 speed transmissions are very good. If your Toyota was not rusty, then it makes sense to do the rear end. Dropping big money into a rusty truck is not something that I would do. The Ram trucks are very comfortable to drive.
 
Posts: 668 | Location: Kansas | Registered: August 28, 2020Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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I have a 2017 and it is absolutely one of the best trucks I have ever owned. It’s paid for and I have no plans on buying a new one for quite a while.

Pay no attention to anyone who tells you to steer clear of XYZ brand because they have issues at work. With the exception of probably Crown Vic’s, you can find an agency ( like mine) that has zero problems out of their Ram trucks, and nothing but trouble out of Explorers. Or vice Versa.


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Posts: 38542 | Location: Logical | Registered: September 12, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by Calif Phil:
I have a 2019 Ram 1500 with the V6 and have had no issues, the thing that made me go to Ram is the 8 speed transmissions are very good. If your Toyota was not rusty, then it makes sense to do the rear end. Dropping big money into a rusty truck is not something that I would do. The Ram trucks are very comfortable to drive.


Good info from someone who owns a RAM, thanks
 
Posts: 2181 | Location: USA | Registered: December 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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quote:
Originally posted by jljones:
I have a 2017 and it is absolutely one of the best trucks I have ever owned. It’s paid for and I have no plans on buying a new one for quite a while.

Pay no attention to anyone who tells you to steer clear of XYZ brand because they have issues at work. With the exception of probably Crown Vic’s, you can find an agency ( like mine) that has zero problems out of their Ram trucks, and nothing but trouble out of Explorers. Or vice Versa.


Thanks
 
Posts: 2181 | Location: USA | Registered: December 11, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
PopeDaddy
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I’ve got a 2010 Ram 1500 Hemi and I can’t ever sell that truck because it’s been darned near perfect. 200k miles.

Oil, brakes, shocks, wiper blades, battery, alternator, PCV and gas. That’s about it.

Bought a 2022 Ram ordered without etorque just the way my 2010 was put together because of my reliability experience with the 2010.


0:01
 
Posts: 4408 | Location: ALABAMA | Registered: January 05, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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