Originally posted by Mustang-PaPa: Wow jimmy you have done it again. Another off topic pissing match with fourteen chapters.
To back things up a bit here “Does the Op GMC need loctite/thread loc on it drive line bolts”?
Not every bolt needs to be secured with thread locker and to make a blanket statement to apply it to every application without knowing is simply bad advice and this is generally what gets all these pissing matches started.
Per the op no thread locker was seen so none was applied on re-assembly.
Both GM and FORD call for and use red thread locker on their drive shaft bolts on trucks. I am not a Ford or GM engineer, so I followed their instructions and used red loctite as specified in GM and Ford's shop manuals. If you were even remotely professional, you would look in the shop manual for the proper torque specification for the drive shaft bolts and use a torque wrench to install them as well.
Everyone else has done it again, for calling me out on something that the manufacturer calls for in their shop manual. When they have NO knowledge that GM does indeed use red thread locker on their 2500HD drive shaft bolts AND calls for it's use in the (2500HD) trucks shop manual. The reason GM calls for it is vibration can loosen the bolts in various situations that you use a truck in, such as towing.
I'd really rather not have to defend myself from several petty people that constantly make false accusations, when what I posted is true and in the GM shop manual instructions. Yet, they have no direct knowledge nor have ever probably worked on a HD2500, or ever looked in a shop manual.
October 19, 2019, 07:00 PM
LS1 GTO
quote:
Originally posted by Mustang-PaPa: Wow jimmy you have done it again. Another off topic pissing match with fourteen chapters.
To back things up a bit here “Does the Op GMC need loctite/thread loc on it drive line bolts”?
Not every bolt needs to be secured with thread locker and to make a blanket statement to apply it to every application without knowing is simply bad advice and this is generally what gets all these pissing matches started.
Per the op no thread locker was seen so none was applied on re-assembly.
As Jimmy is muted on my login let me guess, he is [again] giving an inaccurate diatribe about he's not wrong "because ..." and is trying to show how much he knows using at least 200 words - minimum [again]?This message has been edited. Last edited by: LS1 GTO, October 19, 2019 08:27 PM
Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it.
"If dogs don't go to Heaven, I want to go where they go" Will Rogers
The definition of the words we used, carry a meaning of their own...
October 20, 2019, 08:00 AM
egregore
What exactly is wrong about using thread locker on a drive shaft bolt? It's something you really don't want to come loose, is it not? You can still use red, it will just be a little harder to remove next time (if needed). And I'm here to tell you that Ford uses a hellacious thread locker on theirs. I use a special socket on a 1200-ft.-lb. impact gun and it sometimes struggles a bit.This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore, October 20, 2019 09:02 AM
October 20, 2019, 10:45 AM
41
quote:
Originally posted by egregore: What exactly is wrong about using thread locker on a drive shaft bolt? It's something you really don't want to come loose, is it not? You can still use red, it will just be a little harder to remove next time (if needed). And I'm here to tell you that Ford uses a hellacious thread locker on theirs. I use a special socket on a 1200-ft.-lb. impact gun and it sometimes struggles a bit.
I agree and have read many articles where loctite was used both blue and red. I checked my 1990 C2500 manual and it says, "Fasteners that are not reused and those requiring thread locking compound will be called out."
41
October 20, 2019, 11:08 AM
sigmonkey
My apologies to Jimmy.
My comment was on application of red liquid "locker" on the U-bolt nuts as they are (physically) locking nuts with low torque requirement, and are not prone to loosening.
Jimmy (and others) were discussing flange bolts, and they so have higher torque and clamping loads, and do not have a physical "locking" so do (often) require thread locking compounds as recommended by manufacture(s). Everything Jimmy stated is 100% correct.
(I failed in comprehension of the actual type of U-Joints being discusses).
And FWIW, I was not attacking Jimmy or his information, but pointing out that there is a difference between the red dri-loc that is factory applied to new bolts, and the liquid read Loc-tite.
Even though both are "high hold", the dry requires much less torque to break loose than the liquid red product.
Looking back at the entire thread, my comments were not germane to the OP's type of equipment.
"the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" ✡ Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב!
October 20, 2019, 12:12 PM
powermad
When in doubt follow the Factory Service Manual.
Generally all the hardware that I work with that has pre-applied goo on it is a one time use bolt. Internal engine bolts, u-joint bolts, etc.
In the field on a road call I will reuse the cap bolts if I don't have a set on me, I just clean the threads and apply whatever color liquid locker it had on it.
Anymore on u-joint bolts I just start out heating them up a bit with a propane torch and don't fuck around. It doesn't have to be red hot, just enough to release it. The new high torque u-joint caps with an 18mm 12 point head are a real motherfucker as it is.
October 21, 2019, 12:11 AM
Excam_Man
quote:
Originally posted by jimmy123x: FORD uses red locktite on their driveshaft bolts as OEM. They use 12 point, 12 MM bolts as well. This is fact. When you buy new bolts, they come with red Loctite on them. The AC DELCO 26036835 bolts that are for the OP's truck, come with red locktite on them from the factory. As does the GM shop manual's recommendation for the installation of driveshaft bolts on an HD2500. SO, until YOU actually know what the hell you are talking about, please stop calling me out.
END of quoted text from Jimmy's FIRST POST Second post below:
Both GM and FORD call for and use red thread locker on their drive shaft bolts on trucks. I am not a Ford or GM engineer, so I followed their instructions and used red loctite as specified in GM and Ford's shop manuals. If you were even remotely professional, you would look in the shop manual for the proper torque specification for the drive shaft bolts and use a torque wrench to install them as well.
Everyone else has done it again, for calling me out on something that the manufacturer calls for in their shop manual. When they have NO knowledge that GM does indeed use red thread locker on their 2500HD drive shaft bolts AND calls for it's use in the (2500HD) trucks shop manual. The reason GM calls for it is vibration can loosen the bolts in various situations that you use a truck in, such as towing.
I'd really rather not have to defend myself from several petty people that constantly make false accusations, when what I posted is true and in the GM shop manual instructions. Yet, they have no direct knowledge nor have ever probably worked on a HD2500, or ever looked in a shop manual.
Let's see, OP's vehicle is a GMC, so I don't think he really cares what Ford does or doesn't do for that matter.
The links you provided in your first post are for aftermarket parts, not OEM products and the AC Delco # 26036835 is incorrect (such number is listed as "front drive axle inner shaft housing bolt"). In the link below, it's # 18 (Nice try).
Further, the manufacturer's service manual doesn't list the bolts as a one time fastener or call for any thread locking compound.
Now, tell me I don't know what I'm talking about: I just proved your info is inaccurate and provided accurate links. Also, re-read the OEM service manual.
As far as knowledge or experience goes, I just finished rebuilding a 2500/3500 Chevy axle and the drive shafts (u-joints).