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Both GM and FORD call for and use red thread locker on their drive shaft bolts on trucks. I am not a Ford or GM engineer, so I followed their instructions and used red loctite as specified in GM and Ford's shop manuals. If you were even remotely professional, you would look in the shop manual for the proper torque specification for the drive shaft bolts and use a torque wrench to install them as well. Everyone else has done it again, for calling me out on something that the manufacturer calls for in their shop manual. When they have NO knowledge that GM does indeed use red thread locker on their 2500HD drive shaft bolts AND calls for it's use in the (2500HD) trucks shop manual. The reason GM calls for it is vibration can loosen the bolts in various situations that you use a truck in, such as towing. I'd really rather not have to defend myself from several petty people that constantly make false accusations, when what I posted is true and in the GM shop manual instructions. Yet, they have no direct knowledge nor have ever probably worked on a HD2500, or ever looked in a shop manual. | |||
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The Unmanned Writer |
As Jimmy is muted on my login let me guess, he is [again] giving an inaccurate diatribe about he's not wrong "because ..." and is trying to show how much he knows using at least 200 words - minimum [again]?This message has been edited. Last edited by: LS1 GTO, Life moves pretty fast. If you don't stop and look around once in a while, you could miss it. "If dogs don't go to Heaven, I want to go where they go" Will Rogers The definition of the words we used, carry a meaning of their own... | |||
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| His diet consists of black coffee, and sarcasm.  |
 What exactly is wrong about using thread locker on a drive shaft bolt? It's something you really don't want to come loose, is it not? You can still use red, it will just be a little harder to remove next time (if needed). And I'm here to tell you that Ford uses a hellacious thread locker on theirs. I use a special socket on a 1200-ft.-lb. impact gun and it sometimes struggles a bit.This message has been edited. Last edited by: egregore, | |||
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Only the strong survive |
I agree and have read many articles where loctite was used both blue and red. I checked my 1990 C2500 manual and it says, "Fasteners that are not reused and those requiring thread locking compound will be called out." 41 | |||
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A Grateful American |
My apologies to Jimmy. My comment was on application of red liquid "locker" on the U-bolt nuts as they are (physically) locking nuts with low torque requirement, and are not prone to loosening. Jimmy (and others) were discussing flange bolts, and they so have higher torque and clamping loads, and do not have a physical "locking" so do (often) require thread locking compounds as recommended by manufacture(s). Everything Jimmy stated is 100% correct. (I failed in comprehension of the actual type of U-Joints being discusses). And FWIW, I was not attacking Jimmy or his information, but pointing out that there is a difference between the red dri-loc that is factory applied to new bolts, and the liquid read Loc-tite. Even though both are "high hold", the dry requires much less torque to break loose than the liquid red product. Looking back at the entire thread, my comments were not germane to the OP's type of equipment. "the meaning of life, is to give life meaning" ✡ Ani Yehudi אני יהודי Le'olam lo shuv לעולם לא שוב! | |||
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Member |
When in doubt follow the Factory Service Manual. Generally all the hardware that I work with that has pre-applied goo on it is a one time use bolt. Internal engine bolts, u-joint bolts, etc. In the field on a road call I will reuse the cap bolts if I don't have a set on me, I just clean the threads and apply whatever color liquid locker it had on it. Anymore on u-joint bolts I just start out heating them up a bit with a propane torch and don't fuck around. It doesn't have to be red hot, just enough to release it. The new high torque u-joint caps with an 18mm 12 point head are a real motherfucker as it is. | |||
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| Member |
Let's see, OP's vehicle is a GMC, so I don't think he really cares what Ford does or doesn't do for that matter. The links you provided in your first post are for aftermarket parts, not OEM products and the AC Delco # 26036835 is incorrect (such number is listed as "front drive axle inner shaft housing bolt"). In the link below, it's # 18 (Nice try). https://www.wholesalegmpartson...061743/26036835.html And here... https://www.gmpartsgiant.com/p...t-scre-26036835.html The OEM strap kit # 45U0505 is a 6 point bolt with no locktite applied to the threads. See for yourself at the (4) links below: https://bbpdiesel.com/i-244841...ref=category:1267121 https://www.amazon.com/ACDelco...a-493442388433&psc=1 https://www.autozone.com/drive...trap-u-bolt-retainer https://dmaxstore.com/products...1679&product_id=4844 Further, the manufacturer's service manual doesn't list the bolts as a one time fastener or call for any thread locking compound. Now, tell me I don't know what I'm talking about: I just proved your info is inaccurate and provided accurate links. Also, re-read the OEM service manual. As far as knowledge or experience goes, I just finished rebuilding a 2500/3500 Chevy axle and the drive shafts (u-joints). | |||
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