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Picture of Jelly
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quote:
The problem is, even if I set it manually with angle tools, the stock doesn't reflect the blade angle that was set before I spun up the blade and made the cut. I can't depend on any markings for acceptable precision.


Is it consistent? If so, adjust it to what it takes to get good cuts on test material.
 
Posts: 2681 | Registered: March 15, 2004Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of wrightd
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Wow, I think you guys, Darth and Sig, probably just figured it out, regarding bad bearings or the blade deflecting under load for other reasons related to the motor, mount, bearings or other parts of the saw just wearing out, allowing unwanted dynamics of the blade under load. I would bet that is what's going on my my Rigid saw, considering the use I've put it though over the years.

Arc, regarding tool use of single user versus a crew, that's welcome advice. Says a lot about how tools are used and treated, I didn't know that, though it make sense. I know that about hand tools for auto mechanics since I do that work as DIY, but I never thought about that for power tools like saws etc. Your brand for specific tool classes is much appreciated.

Based on your previous recommendation and some research I've done since you posted about your Dewalt compound miter, I think that's what I should end up getting. I read some reviews of a Makita saw that competes with you saw, but runs a 10 inch blade, and has a zero clearance backside with the tubular bearing tracks going out front (and a few other brand/models that are like that for space advantages), but it is apparently a little imbalanced, the implication that the more traditional 50/50 tubular slides half-way out back and half-way out front, as on your Dewalt model, are less likely to go out of alignment with time, particularly when combining bevel and miter cuts near the end of travel, messing up the cuts.

I also read about Festool, apparently that brand is the best of the best, but too expensive for my DIY use. So I'll prob. end up with the Dewalt given your good experience with yours. The Benjamins are a little high, but I know you get what you pay for, as most of my power tools are Milwauke, Makita and Dewalt across the board, with a few exceptions, and so far those exceptions have not held par with those other brands.

Darth, Sig, and Arc, thanks a bunch.




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Posts: 9079 | Location: Nowhere the constitution is not honored | Registered: February 01, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of wrightd
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An update - I bought a new 12 inch Dewalt track saw w miter & bevel capability. I don't have good enough squares to true up the blade yet, but it is light years ahead of my old saw in terms of true cuts. So today I cut 37 balusters and some prime 2x4 stock for the 2nd half of my porch replacement and all the cuts were nicely square and true. My old saw was not able to do this, even for 2x2 nominal balluster stock. The saw is powerful and the build quality is impressive.

I paid $200 less then street price on a last unit sale, otherwise I wouldn't have bought it so soon. My guess is at some point everyone may have to drop their price on this model since the normal street and internet price for the saw seems too high to me.

So thanks Arc for the recommendation of the big Dewalt, it's working out as good as I had hoped.




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Posts: 9079 | Location: Nowhere the constitution is not honored | Registered: February 01, 2008Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Sorry I am so late to the discussion. If you are using one of the thin kerf saw blades its possible it got overheated and warped. Take the blade off and hold a straight edge against it, if you see light it has "turned over" or warped. Anyway enjoy your new DeWalt, it is a good saw.
 
Posts: 602 | Location: Glide, Oregon | Registered: March 23, 2005Reply With QuoteReport This Post
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Picture of wrightd
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I didn't know that. Thanks Brooks. I'll remove the blade from my old saw and put it on a straight edge. Thanks man.




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