Set some 6 by 6 pressure treated posts in the ground yesterday. One of them's got a pretty good crack in it. We're in a remote location and it just wasn't an option to get another one. So we went ahead and and installed it the crack starts about 2 ft up from ground level and goes up maybe three or four feet. I'm looking at trying to reinforce that. I was thinking about some half inch plywood screwing it to the Post. I'm wondering if you guys have any suggestions. Thank you

I think I'd screw in a steel angle bracket....maybe two, one each way.

Am I correct in assuming that your 6x6 is pressure treated pine?

If so, that’s not uncommon. If you are still concerned than you might want to pull both sides together with appropriate lag screws. I would not use plywood in an external application.

Something like Ledger Lok screws would be good..

https://www.fastenmaster.com/v...ural-wood-screw.html

Would drilling a hole for a large-ish threaded bolt, big assed washers and nuts on both sides torqued down work well? Maybe a small piece of flat metal underneath the washers/nuts help spread the hold down force?

Assuming you could get a long enough drill bit?

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:
Would drilling a hole for a large-ish threaded bolt, big assed washers and nuts on both sides torqued down work well? Maybe a small piece of flat metal underneath the washers/nuts help spread the hold down force?

Assuming you could get a long enough drill bit?

Bingo...I agree with this.

Bolt with washer plates on either side.

Inject it with a modern two part epoxy glue.

For example, West System, when mixed with the correct filler, is actually stronger than the wood it binds too. On more than one occasion I used a big syringe of West System epoxy fix cracks in wood.

Ok guys, good info. All you

quote:

Originally posted by OKCGene:
Would drilling a hole for a large-ish threaded bolt, big assed washers and nuts on both sides torqued down work well? Maybe a small piece of flat metal underneath the washers/nuts help spread the hold down force?

Assuming you could get a long enough drill bit?

This is what I would do. BUT be sure to use apprpriately coated hardware.
The chemicals in PT would will quickly destroy plain steel.

Plenty of good advise above, but what hasn't been said is: plywood & screws ain't gonna do shit.

Why does it need reinforced? what's the load it's going to see?
If no real load, epoxy/glue to keep crack from running (if anything at all).
If load is a concern, I'd choose drilling & through bolt over lag screws, but if you're that concerned, I'd replace it as soon as you can.

What are you using it for?

A certain amount of checking and splitting is allowed by lumber grade alone. Then by how the piece is being used. PT can look ugly and work.

If the crack is either all the way through or all the way to one end, the piece should have been discarded.

I do not recommend epoxy or anything else, as seasonal expansion and contraction will not play nice.

Did you use Coppercoat or a similar product on the end you buried? That will matter more.

I have dealt with extending a 6X6 pole to get greater height on my skinning post. We nailed and Gorilla glued a PT 2X6 on both sides of the splice and then through bolted the whole sandwich together with 1/2 inch galvanized carriage bolts. It is still solid as a rock 10 years later

sistering it is a perfectly good and acceptable practice. or a flitch plate.
You don't say what is the use and any restrictions on size, shape aesthetics, etc. but the easy method it to take some 2x material (PT) and through bolt it on either side. Depending on the loads involved you can double the 2x. Or you can take a piece of steel plate and do the same thing one or both sides depending on the loads, or course needing to isolate it from the PT due to corrosion issues.

ok guys back from the job. The project is a 12x16' lean two stucture. Six post's. The two beams are 2-2x6 with a piece of 1/2" plywood sandwiched between running the full 16' plus an extra foot on each end. There will be 9-2x6 rafters for the bones of it. 5/8" sheeting for the roof. The building is being made hell for stout. Overkill really. But that is how I like stuff.
While the post in question in not ideal I do not feel it will affect the structural integrity of the building. I may impose a remedy mentioned. Will need to get further along to assess. It would be a precautionary measure if I do. I appreciate all the input.

The post's were put in at approx. 3' and dry pack sackrete cement mix was put in the hole with the post. 3x80lb bags per post. I know some will dispute this technique. Here is will probably last at least three generations. Ymmv.

If you go with the bolt through with nuts and washers, I highly recommend you use stainless steel ones.

quote:

Originally posted by Sig2340:
Inject it with a modern two part epoxy glue.

For example, West System, when mixed with the correct filler, is actually stronger than the wood it binds too. On more than one occasion I used a big syringe of West System epoxy fix cracks in wood.

This would be the best option. West 403 is a super strong thickener, that post would be very strong after the repair. A few fasteners would also help.

Would the epoxy adhere effectively to a treated post?

I'd do nothing at this time.

quote:

Originally posted by Gene Hillman:
Would the epoxy adhere effectively to a treated post?

I would let the treated post dry properly for at least 90 days before I tried. But do think West would adhere properly if the wood is relatively dry. Without seeing it, I'm more inclined to leave it alone and do nothing. If I was to drill it and put bolts and washers, I'd put3'+ 2x6's on both sides to sister it.

I have never met a PT 6x6 that would offer good adhesion to epoxy with out a very long (way greater than 90 days) period of drying. They are (at least in my area) wetter than snot. In any case as someone with lots of experience with west system, west system and filler are not really structural by themselves . And in this case where we are talking out in the woods the best answer is as you suggest, just sister the thing with some 2x6 pieces(which you are going to have around for the rafters) screw in with some decently size PT compatible GRK's and be done with it.