Hi Folks,

We had some crazy shear winds here a couple of days ago and they left us this present.



I have a tractor so I can pull this off but I want to cut the tree at the fence so I don't have to remove the fencing.

Here is a bit of a close up of the tree.



The tree is not hard on the ground. There is space underneath it.

Believe it or not I have reached the age of 60 without using a chainsaw but this looks like a good opportunity to get one.

This will probably be the biggest project I will need it for but there are a bunch of smaller tasks to be tackled. I know the bigger you go the more unwieldy they are so I would like to get the best size that will let me do this comfortably but not be too big later on.

My best estimate of the diameter of the the tree is 18 inches. I might be off by a little but not much. It looks a bit bigger as the cottonwood bark is really thick.


We have a couple of Stihl dealers close by so that is probably what I would go with.

Recommendations?

Helpful hints?

All recommendations are welcome.

I will be buying safety gear.

I'd say smaller/ lower power is better

There's a reason the Farm Boss is one of the best-selling chain saws of all time. the 40cm bar should be fine.

Stihl or Husquavarna 18-20" bar. Just a WAG.

I bought a stihl a couple of years ago. I don't remember the model but it's a 16" bar and has the tool free chain adjuster and the easy start. That's just the ticket for us older guys who don't plan on felling trees but need one around for trimming, cleanup etc.

Have not read the responses. I use a chain saw quite a bit, and on some stuff that is more than 20 inches thick.

My selection of chain saws is a Poulon, 50 cc engine, 20 inch bar and chain. I would get at least one extra chain. Running the chain into the dirt dulls it very quickly.

Might also be worthwhile spending about $40 at Harbor Freight to buy a chain sharpener. You can touch up a chain in about 10 minutes, and definitely much cheaper than paying someone to sharpen them, or work yourself to death trying to cut with a dull chain.

One word of advice, since you say you have never use one before. Assuming you are right handed, your left hand should be on the front end of the engine. Keep that arm/elbow straight. Will prevent the saw from coming back up and hitting you if it catches. As I recall it is called kick back.

Good luck with your cutting, read the instructions that come with the saw, and follow them.

I paid $190 for my new saw and with the added displacement (few CCs) it is really much better than earlier versions.

Unless you plan on going into the lumbering business, you really have no need for a Stihl.

I have always had a smaller stihl saw. My dad had borrowed mine recently. He lives in another state. I decided to rent one for the day. They only had a big saw. Now I will say that the big saws do get heavy during a full days work, but man do they cut. So much so that i called up my dad that day and told him he could keep that saw. I went down that day and bought a new one. I think my old saw was a ms180. I rented ms3xx. I purchased an ms271. Wish I would have went bigger but my wallet said stop. None of these saws mentioned are really big saws. More like medium to small.

I have a Stihl 320? Farm Boss with an 18" bar. We used it to cut up a 48" oak that was estimated to be about 200 years old back in 2008. I don't use it a lot, but when I need a saw, it works. With the tree we were cutting up, I wished it were a 24" bar, but it did get the job done. HERE is Stihl's comparison chart for all their saws. Do a cost comparison and get the most powerful saw you are willing to pay for, you won't be sorry.

Check craigslist in your area if chainsaws are not too commonly used. You may find yourelf a gem and for a good price. Even new Stihl's are not what they used to be.

Yeah, the numbers may change some over time, I have an 029 and a MS360, both Stihl.

I've cut some big wood with my older 029, the 360 has a 20" bar. The biggies are that it is sharp, then has the power to cut the wood, more so than just bar length.

If you have' cut before start out slowly. Accidents can happen if a spinning chain touches twigs or of course gets a bit & kicks back. It sounds like you want to get acclimate for future cutting anyway.

I'm a Stihl fanboy, though a few others are fine choices too. A saw dealer can give you some tips, as they push you towards a sale.

I use mine quite a bit and have 16 & 18" Stihl's.
if I was buying another it would be smaller, not bigger. Most of the cutting could be done with a very small saw and the weight gets to you after a while.
Be very careful cutting that tree that's off the ground. Start on the small end and get all the small stuff out of the way first. Cutting from the underside is when you are at greater risk of kickback but you'll need to cut from below or the saw will pinch.

I have a Stihl, about 6 years old, its an MS290, which is the next size up from the Farm Boss. Rated at 4 hp, with a 20 inch bar. It will cut anything I will need in my lifetime. It is 13 pounds, and will tire you out. It is also powerful enough to really hurt you if you get kick back.

Husquvarna is also a good saw, and I have heard good things about Jonsered (Tractor Supply is a dealer).

A note about chainsaws; always cut at full power. The chain is less likely to catch if moving fast. Cut as close to the motor as you can, no screwing around with the tip. The tip is what makes things go bad, and causes kickback. Gloves, safety glasses at a minimum (face shield is better) and ear protection. The note above about keep your left arm straight is very good advice. If it binds, jack up, wooden wedge or move the tree, don't fight the saw. When the saw is new, the chain will wear and stretch a lot during the first few uses. Make sure it doesn't get too loose when you are using it, or it may jump the bar. This is unlikely to cause injury, but can bind things up pretty badly.

Chain saws are very easy to use, very effective, but they can bite you if you aren't real careful.

If you have modest work to do, I would go with 3 to 4 hp, and a 16 to 20 inch bar. If it will be used infrequently, and the work is close to your house, a decent electric chain saw is worth considering. They are lighter, quite effective, always start after a long period of non-use without pulling your shoulder out, and don't require mixed gas. A good dealer will help guide you to the machine you need for the work you will do.

Good luck.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: ArtieS,

I would suggest a 45 cc to 50cc saw with 18" bar as an all around saw.
Don't buy at Home Depot or Lowes.
Get a good name brand commercial saw at a shop that does their own repairs. If you are not working it daily five days a week a used refurbished commercial saw from a reputable shop will do just fine.

I would suggest you invest in a pair of kevlar chaps and heavy leather steel toe boots and a helmet with eye and ear protection. After your first incident the value will be apparent.

I've got a Husqvarna 455 Rancher, but if you have Stihl dealers close by, I would definitely go that direction. If, as you say, this deadfall is the biggest job you'll do, I'd look for a factory rebuilt saw. I know Husqvarna has them and I'm sure Stihl does as well. I think I would still go at least 16" bar.

quote:

Husqvarna

I've got two Husqvarna saws, the kind you can't buy at a big box store, and run them frequently. I would recommend you rent a saw for your purpose, and buy one later if you need it based on your experiences cleaning up that tree. Most people who buy "Farm" sized saws really don't need anything that big.

I cut trees for a living. If you haven't felt the need for a saw until now you really don't need much saw. I suggest getting a low end Stihl with a 16" bar and see how you do. If you are the least bit competent avoid the tool free chain adjuster and any of the silly starting aids. If after a bit you find yourself wanting more saw then you can evaluate.
The best overall smaller saws in the current stihl lineup for overall 'real' use imo are the 261 (I use this when I have to hike into the area where I am cutting and carry two saws), the 362 (the best overall saw they make with an 18" bar) and for real trees (not your issue 661's).
The recommendation for looking at the classifieds is a good one. If you can find the prior generation Stihl saws in good shape it will be cheaper and you will get a better saw. I buy every Stihl 361 I see that's not junk.
In general if all you have is that one tree (ish) getting a neighbor who has a saw or even paying someone is likely the cheapest route.

I have a Stihl 028 Farmboss. It was bought by me, new, in 1988. It still runs great, I used it the other day.

A couple of suggestions.

18" is a pretty good size, deceptively heavy. Have a friend that has chainsaw experience cut this trunk for you. Watch and listen carefully to his advice.

Buy a smaller Stihl for all your other work. Start small, gain experience and learn on lighter stuff.

My saw is a medium size. It started with a 16" bar, I upgraded to an 18 and then a 20" bar. It gives me reach and capacity, but adds weight.
It is likely you could get by with a 16" bar for just about all your needs.

With my saw I do not go by the "full throttle all the time" theory. It is powerful enough that I just ensure I am not stalling the chain while it is working. Full throttle is rarely necessary for me when cutting.

A smaller, lighter saw, even a Stihl, will likely need more speed and throttle when compared to something like my 028. Nature of the beast. Little dogs make more noise.

Finally, the 028 is a great machine. Old ones are bringing prices they cost new. It is a model I would recommend, even with a 16" bar.

 
Be aware of what you can start. As I'v gotten older, I find I am unable to pull larger saws past their compression, so I stick to the smaller engines. Stihl, of course.
 

Any decent larger saw will have a compression release for this issue.

If this is the only time you are going to use it I'd either buy a used saw, rent one or borrow one.