We want to install an iron fence (not wood) around the perimeter for security and also to prevent deer and coyotes from entering the yard (and the occasional neighborhood escaped dog who may or may not be friendly).

I've never installed a fence before and know nothing about them. I don't know what to specify or look for in a quote.

Need to have an iron fence with bars that doesn't obstruct views (wooden fences that obstruct views are not allowed per CCR). I guess these are "wrought iron" in appearance but not in material (sounds like real wrought iron would be prohibitively expensive but not sure).

I'm open to all recommendations to include in the quote. But some specific things I wonder about:

0. What do I look for in a contractor to install a fence?

1. property has a slope. Should I fence on the slope along the property line? Or should I keep the fence to the ridge line? Both are okay for me but not sure how to determine which path I should take.

2. I think I want at least 5' or 6' high for security - harder for people and deer to jump over. Is there a standard, recommended height?

3. What should be specified for posts? Concrete poured into the ground? Any specifics?

4. What material should I specify? Steel? Coatings or treatments? Anything besides "iron fence" like percentage composition or gauge? I just want a simple, black design with horizontal support rods at the top and bottom.

Maybe something roughly like this (is Al okay?): https://www.homedepot.com/p/Tu...en-US&fp=ggl#overlay

5. If real wrought iron is too expensive, is steel or aluminum better (considering security and cost)? And do I want welded or bolted joints between panels and posts?

6. I need a gate that will allow a large landscape dump truck to pass through (we occasionally order 10 yards of mulch or other landscape material). I would like this gate to be lockable w/ combination (not key) available on both sides. If combination is not viable, then double cylinder deadbolt may be okay (actually, at this point, even single cylinder w/ blank exterior may be okay). Given the gate will be about 20' wide, should I request that this be two pieces? Sliding gate not possible since one end will be the house, the other end will be at slope ridge.

How do I specify the lock type (household type? mortice type? other?) and that they be replaceable with standard locks off the shelf (commonly available at HD or locksmiths).

6. How do I specify that there should be no gaps between fence and ground despite ground undulations (including drainage paths)? What's the best way to not have gaps? Should the fence bottom be underground by a few inches? Or there some pre-installation ground grading that is required?

But also don't want weird rise and falls in fence height either.

7. What's the average cost per linear foot that I should expect for all this? $30? $60? $100?

Not looking for fancy. Just neighborhood presentable / friendly and security effective. (And durable - don't want to mess with it for a good 30-50 years, if ever).

Anything else to specify in the quote?

Thanks!!

Updates per guidance here:
0. TBD.
1. Get quotes for both but decision criteria tbd.
2. Check w/ CCR restrictions. Check neighbor fence height.
3.
4. Since this is partially for security, steel is more robust. Leaning towards steel but curious relatively how weak and how much cheaper Al would be. Bolted joints seem common; other than incremental security hardening why weld? Leaning towards bolted joints for ease of future repairs.
5. Trending toward double cylinder deadbolt (mortice?), perhaps Medeco, for the big gate. Still prefer some combo lock for the smaller people gate, at least on interior side.
6. Not sure. But maybe just have the fence installed w/ minimal gap as possible. Then install additional soil to close any gaps as needed. Also, there is something called puppy fence with smaller gaps between rods on the lower part of the fence, standard pitch above. Perhaps this is good for critter prevention. Seems there are three pitches: 1) standard, 2) royal(?), 3) puppy.
7. Guessing about $60 per linear foot. Hopefully cheaper. And then additional costs for tbd slope installation and gates.

This message has been edited. Last edited by: konata88,

You might want to verify the timeframe (including start date) that it’s to be completed in. I have had issues with that in almost all of the jobs I’ve had done here. Often times contractors (understandably) will take on multiple jobs at the same time, but for me at least I would always be too laid-back and end up waiting far too long for the finished product while they worked on somebody else who was cracking the whip a lot harder.
Now’s the time to get your quote if you want it done in the summer! Good luck -I am sure it will be beautiful.

Check municipal ordinances and your HOA. Our township limits fence heights to 6'. Our HOA has "rules" as well but since the HOA regs didn't convey with the deed, they have no enforcement power. That doesn't stop the local Karen from calling the building inspector.

quote:

Originally posted by irreverent:
You might want to verify the timeframe (including start date) that it’s to be completed in. I have had issues with that in almost all of the jobs I’ve had done here. Often times contractors (understandably) will take on multiple jobs at the same time, but for me at least I would always be too laid-back and end up waiting far too long for the finished product while they worked on somebody else who was cracking the whip a lot harder.
Now’s the time to get your quote if you want it done in the summer! Good luck -I am sure it will be beautiful.

Good point. I'm a little forgiving on the start and end dates but don't want them to be too protracted. How is this typically worded to allow some flexibility but to force completion by a reasonable date while not allowing for quick, shoddy work?

quote:

Originally posted by SPWAMike0317:
Check municipal ordinances and your HOA. Our township limits fence heights to 6'. Our HOA has "rules" as well but since the HOA regs didn't convey with the deed, they have no enforcement power. That doesn't stop the local Karen from calling the building inspector.

Will check the CCR. I think we need a permit before work starts anyway. I'll check fences in the neighborhood as well - the area is mostly fence free except for when people have pools (many do except poor me - eh, I wouldn't use it much anyway).

You need to also think about the neighbors/property boundaries.

What is called a 'good neighbor' fence generally is put right on the property line, both neighbors pay equally and have to agree on the details of the fence.

If that's not in the cards, you may need to set the fence a certain amount inside your actual property boundaries.

This may depend on jurisdiction, but that was my experience in Silicon Valley in the '90s, anyway.

That's one of the decisions I need to make but likely costs are out of my pocket alone.

1. Rear - neighbor installed a fence for which I paid half. Asshole neighbor btw, glad he moved.

2. Side - one side already fenced.

3. Side - neighbor installed fence well into his property inside the property line. I need to decide whether to fence along the property line (on a slope) or fence along a ridge line above the slope. No fencing at the property line. I would pay for either route. Property line would be a longer (and perhaps more costly for labor). Leaning toward ridge line but not sure how to decide.

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:

3. Side - neighbor installed fence well into his property inside the property line. I need to decide whether to fence along the property line (on a slope) or fence along a ridge line above the slope. No fencing at the property line. I would pay for either route. Property line would be a longer (and perhaps more costly for labor). Leaning toward ridge line but not sure how to decide.

IDK the lay of the land, so to speak. But if the money is there, I'd fence the slope and maintain the property line-it might matter to the next owner. Get bids for both locations and let that help decide.

Good point - will get both quotes. But if cost indifferent, still not sure how to decide. I'm not sure I'm influenced by the next owner preferences though. Hard to know what they would prefer or even care. They could change that section as they want - I don't think it would materially change the selling price.

Putting the fence on a ridge makes it a more daunting jump for animals and people (a little more secure?).

Our neighbor installed one like you mentioned at HD. They make sections that are adjustable for sloped property so that shouldn’t be a problem.

On the other hand make damn sure you know where your property lines are. My neighbor installed the line along our adjacent property and then wanted me to start cutting down trees that she believed were impacting her lot. One of those were, what I believed at the time to be, on her property. To make a long story short aid hired a licensed surveyor and come to find out her fence was 15 feet ON MY PROPERTY!!!

The surveyor told me that in NC if the fence isn’t moved in a timely manner she would eventually own my section that was within her fenced area.

I gave her 30 days to remove it and now she doesn’t talk to me ;-).

quote:

Originally posted by konata88:
I'm not sure I'm influenced by the next owner preferences though. Hard to know what they would prefer or even care. They could change that section as they want - I don't think it would materially change the selling price.

It depends on how much it might reduce your lot size...which will affect the selling price

If you're not doing a good neighbor fence, it's always a good idea to get a property survey before building. The marks when they built your tract aren't usually known for accuracy

Metal fencing comes three ways around me.

Wrought Iron, Aluminum, and steel.

There are a lot of old houses that use Wrought Iron to keep the antique look.

Aluminum is used a lot because it has the lowest maintenance.

Steel is use for better security and strength.

Quotes are all over the place depending on how busy a company is.

Decide your material first then go get a bunch or quotes.

The difference was 1000s of dollars.

I used Wrought Iron.

My only offering in this matter is to tell you this:

Around here six foot walls don't even slow the coyotes down. They go over six feet easily. In fact, as they're block walls the coyotes get up on top & use them to traverse the terrain.

Wow. Impressive. Looks like the 22lr range....

Do you happen to know what rod pitch is sufficient to keep coyotes out? Standard pitch good enough? Or need something tighter like the Puppy fence pitch?

Perhaps the fence might be more challenging w/ rods rather than solid wall? And 1" width top vs (I don't know) 6" on top of mason walls? Or not.

Maybe that's a case for fencing on the ridge line - running uphill and more vertical for the same fence height? Although I guess the same could be true on the slope depending on, well, the slope.

Maybe 5" pitch would do.

Maybe. I'm guessing they would still go over it, but not stop on top.

There are examples of people using PVC pipe as a roller on top, but I've never seen it in use.

If you’re thinking about not fencing to your property line, and your neighbor isn’t fenced to his property line, take into consideration who is going to take care of the “no man’s land” area between the fences, and how much trouble will it be.

Okay, I'll check on the standard pitch and the optional pitches. I can perhaps get a fence w/ pointy ends up top. Not sure if that would add significant cost or not. I see one neighbor who did that (just noticed it).

If neither the side neighbor or I fence to the property line, I think we'll continue to both take care of the annual weedwacking in that area. He's actually been very kind and considerate in doing some of our yard when he does his. He's younger than me but it's very nice of him to do so.

In any case, we'll take care of our property side, I expect he'll do the same for his.