I need to add a circuit to a vehicle for a dashcam and the only reasonable viable choice is in a fuse panel where the sides of the panel extend right next to and too far beyond the fuse socket to be able to use one of those add-a-fuse deals that have the wire out the short side of fuse. In other words, the fuses are down inside a 1-1.5" deep channel, snug of the sides of the row of fuses. Hoping someone has a source or suggestion for a rig to work around this.

For context, these are full size, not mini, auto fuses. I could use an add-a-fuse type design if the wire for second source came off the long-side of the fuse, or one where the extra wire somehow extended straight out away from the block. I've never seen such an animal and can't find one.

Alternatively if I could rig a fuse-like plug with a wire off the end I can come straight out the block I have an unused but powered block in the panel block that I could plug into. Only one, and it is in the same deep channel area. Of course I only need the hot lead, will ground to frame. In my younger years I'd have already just shoved a soldered piece of wire in there and sort it out later, but I'm trying to do a little better than that.

I'm working in the front passenger/glovebox area fuse panel on a '14 ML350. Still in warranty so I'm also hesitant to start hacking away at wires in that area hunting for a switched hot lead.

Ideas?

BTW - only think I've found close is this, from AMZN. I might could make something like that work, but it seems sketchy....

I've used a spade-tipped piece of wire with an inline fuse holder in the wire. Wouldn't that work for you?

So obvious but so good. A spade may not fit but cut half off a two legged post connector and I’ll be golden!

Thanks for freeing up my brain impaction!

Would this work?



or this?



These are available for the glass type.

If all you're doing is tapping off one contact to the fuse as in the picture above, you're bypassing the utility of the existing fuse.

If you're looking to add an inline fuse, there's no need to do it at the power box or fuse box; you can do it inline. You can choose a glass inline fuse, or a plastic square automotive style fuse like is seen above. All you need to do is to determine which line you want to add the fuse, cut it, and use butt splices to install the fuse holder and fuse inline. Simple. Crimp, and you're done without having to mess with the fuse box. Additionally, the only wire affected by that fuse is the one into which you've spliced, and not other fuses or circuits back at the fuse panel.

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:
If all you're doing is tapping off one contact to the fuse as in the picture above, you're bypassing the utility of the existing fuse.

False.

One side will be a direct battery connection.
The other side will be protected by the installed fuse.

You could always use the battery side and install an inline fuse.

Really you have to hit the fuse panel. I know its easy and would be my first choice but I bet there are zillion leads off it that you could tap. This is a really,really low amp load. 12v plug in the area, radio lead, heck lamp somewhere you can get to.

Just tap the wire that powers your rear view mirror. I did that for my radar detector.

I also tapped the wire for the 12 volt cigarette plug for my GPS.

quote:

Originally posted by Excam_Man:

quote:

Originally posted by sns3guppy:
If all you're doing is tapping off one contact to the fuse as in the picture above, you're bypassing the utility of the existing fuse.

False.

One side will be a direct battery connection.
The other side will be protected by the installed fuse.

You could always use the battery side and install an inline fuse.

I actually have an empty fuse slot that has powered connection at base, on just one side of course. Simplest answer is going to be to tap there rather than jiggering around with one of the existing fuses.

The second thing Excam posted would be perfect, just in a standard rather than narrow width fuse connector. Any chance I'll find this at a auto parts store, or am I going to have to beg around a car audio shop? And what the hell is the name of such a connector?

quote:

Just tap the wire that powers your rear view mirror. I did that for my radar detector.

I'd be trying this if not for the remaining yearish on warranty. My luck would be the mirror would go kaput and dealer blames the rigging there.

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:
Just tap the wire that powers your rear view mirror.

What kind of George Jetson hovercraft are you people driving?

Don't tell me that you press a button to move the mirror. Don't tell me that.

My 2011 outback has a powered auto-dimming rearview mirror it is quite a life-changing device.

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:
Just tap the wire that powers your rear view mirror.

What kind of George Jetson hovercraft are you people driving?

Don't tell me that you press a button to move the mirror. Don't tell me that.

Button? pSHaw! You just think it and it moves!

Seriously, the power to many modern mirrors is to power the auto-dimming feature if it exists, Homelink, map lights, etc. It's pretty amazing how much crap is crammed into the mirror pod on a lot of cars now.

quote:

Originally posted by parabellum:

quote:

Originally posted by Aeteocles:
Just tap the wire that powers your rear view mirror.

What kind of George Jetson hovercraft are you people driving?

Don't tell me that you press a button to move the mirror. Don't tell me that.

Many cars have power to the mirrors for the auto dimming feature, and others have power there for the built in garage door opener. My Subaru also has a little electronic compass there.

Power comes from a wire that is run in the ceiling. Usually there's a plastic console up there with the overhead dome and map lights, sometimes a sunglass holder. The wiring for all that stuff is behind that plastic console, just pop the console out.

I did have a Mercedes that had a motorized mirror though. You moved the mirror manually, but the car would remember the position and store it into memory along with the seat positions. When you switched drivers, the mirror would move back into position automatically for that driver.

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:

The second thing Excam posted would be perfect, just in a standard rather than narrow width fuse connector. Any chance I'll find this at a auto parts store

Have never come across a wider version.

NAPA,
Fuse Tap NW 785133

https://www.wirthco.com/tapsfo...nmini-fuseblock.html

https://www.waytekwire.com/pro...Holder-Type=Fuse-Tap

*If you can't source one locally, e-mail me your shipping address.

I would use an inline fuse holder. There are many types:

https://www.grainger.com/produ...jRz:20180307160110:s

https://www.alliedelec.com/lit...KEAQYAyABEgKZ2fD_BwE

quote:

Originally posted by Georgeair:

quote:

Just tap the wire that powers your rear view mirror. I did that for my radar detector.

I'd be trying this if not for the remaining yearish on warranty. My luck would be the mirror would go kaput and dealer blames the rigging there.

You could also tap the power from the overhead lights.

They make wire taps that don't even require you to cut the wire... Its just a clip that bites though the sheathing. Easy peasy.

this is what i used when i put in my dash cam.

https://www.amazon.com/Vehicle..._encoding=UTF8&s=car

they make them for the larger ATC fuses as well.

AS 41 pointed out above, there are many in-line fuses that don't require you to interface with the existing fusebox at all. I have used them for various accessories over the years.

Are you insisting upon using the existing fusebox for some reason?

quote:

Are you insisting upon using the existing fusebox for some reason?

Only due to ease of access. Wrenching the plastic bits of the trim around mirror/lights gives me heartburn/concern about snapping a piece of $5 plastic that will cost me $400 to replace. Tapping wire under dash is challenging without disassembling a lot of trip pieces as well - there is a complete cover over pretty much everything. A far cry from being able to lay on my back in a '93 Suburban and have my way with any one of a number of wires.

You may have an easier time using an add a fuse in the engine bay fuse box, if there is one. Then fish the wire through an existing grommet in the firewall, again if there is one.