It's been a while since I've tried to make any headway on furthering my power distribution upgrade. Some may recall when I bought my house that I added a sub-panel and migrated a lot of things to it in order to abandon the edge distribution from my main panel. I'd like to get to the point where the main panel replacement would be easier and then hire someone to get it done. I am not comfortable with my main panel as -- others have pointed out -- it does not have a single location shut off.

Anyway, I want to make sure I'm nowhere near overloading my new sub panel before I migrate the 20A 22v oven. My question is, should I pony up for a higher end meter like a Fluke, or are the ones on Amazon at Harbor Freight accurate enough for my purposes. I assume a +/1 1A is probably even ok in this scenario. The possibility to catch induction draw/load/spike (whatever it's called) when the AC is starting etc is pretty compelling I suppose.

Planning to measure on the big feed wires (if I recall correctly, I used #4 wire).

#4 = 90a, it should be #3 Cu or #1 Al.

I doubt you need a meter, but any old cheap one will do this is a relatively inexpensive, but good quality one. If you will only use once, buy the cheapest you can find at HD or Lowe's.

You are not likely overloading the panel from a glance. It looks like you have two 2P 30a circuits and the rest are all single pole, very unlikely to ever overload it under normal circumstances.

PS get rid of the Homeline breaker and put a GE in there.

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
PS get rid of the Homeline breaker and put a GE in there.

Is there something wrong with using Homeline, or is it just not appropriate to use the Homeline breaker in a GE panel? I have always leaned towards using Schneider Electric products, although I've usually used QO panels, mostly because Dad always did. Is GE better now?

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:
Is there something wrong with using Homeline, or is it just not appropriate to use the Homeline breaker in a GE panel? I have always leaned towards using Schneider Electric products, although I've usually used QO panels, mostly because Dad always did. Is GE better now?

I was told by the electrical contractor to use the brand breaker for the brand box. It shouldn't cause any issues if you don't but insurance companies can/will use it to refute a claim in the event something goes wrong.

My memory had faded. It is indeed #2 copper.


The contractor for my AC installed that 30A. It's a Homelite? Is it this one? I'll get a 30A GE and replace it for sure! Thanks! Both of the two poles are my two AC systems.

Yeah, that’s a Square D Homeline breaker.

As for a clamp on meter, Harbor freight is fine for occasional use, but Fluke if you plan on using it a lot. This is the one I have: https://www.amazon.com/Fluke-3...ds=fluke+clamp+meter

quote:

Originally posted by sigcrazy7:

quote:

Originally posted by Skins2881:
PS get rid of the Homeline breaker and put a GE in there.

Is there something wrong with using Homeline, or is it just not appropriate to use the Homeline breaker in a GE panel? I have always leaned towards using Schneider Electric products, although I've usually used QO panels, mostly because Dad always did. Is GE better now?

UL does not test breakers to use in other manufacturers panels. They will work, but have never been tested to. All equipment used must be listed for the use you are using it for, so in addition to not having been tested to work together it's also a code violation.

Hi Jesse, is the breaker I just put up in the pic the one you are referring to? That should be changed to GE?

The breaker in question is the one in the picture with the square d logo and HOM on the label. As was stated above the UL listing of the panel (and ultimately your safety) is dependent on using the correct breakers for the panel. It's a pia for some older panels but oddly most are still available.