Just had my new Westinghouse 9500DF Generator delivered. I’m going to get it running this weekend and was curious about the engine break in procedure. Nowhere in the User Manual is it addressed, but I’m going to do something before putting it under load for who knows how long. How many hours should I run this machine before an oil change? I was figuring 3-5 hrs. then a swap over to synthetic oil (ok per manual). Thanks to all.

I'd follow the manufacturer instructions. Beyond that, if it doesn't require a break in oil change, then I'd run under no load for an hour, then run loaded for a few hours and do drain and refill. I wouldn't bother doing filter unless directions say so. Either way follow instructions for most and do above reqs not below.

My big Champion said 5 hours varying load, then change oil.

I am under the impression that you shouldn’t run a generator without load for very long.

quote:

Originally posted by Voshterkoff:
I am under the impression that you shouldn’t run a generator without load for very long.

This is true.....I'd run it 30 mins with no load, an hour with a light load, then another hour with half load.......go up to a lot of load for an hour, then back down to 50% and then 20 mins......but after 5 hours I would change oil and filter (won't hurt), also make sure to check volts and hertz when you first start it and with various loads......

I don’t think running with no load is a problem for spark ignition engines. They won’t wet stack like a diesel will. Newer Tier IV diesels don’t require the load that diesels used to need to avoid wet stacking, so even diesels can run lighter than the past.

I’d probably do as Jimmy suggests, varying the load over a few hours.

quote:

Originally posted by tigereye313:
My big Champion said 5 hours varying load, then change oil.

My trusty old Briggs I just sold last weekend was 5 hours initial and then every 50 hours after that. I always started it with the breaker tripped (i.e. no load), and once again before shutting down ran a few minutes without load.

In practical terms, changing every 50 hours means that a prepared person should go to the store (e.g. Wally World) and buy a 5 Qt bottle of motor oil (e.g. $14 Super Tech Full Synthetic SAE 5W-30 Motor Oil).

I work on generators for a living. Get a couple of space heaters and run it till it warms up then vary the load for 3 to 5 hours then change the oil and if you didn’t put non ethanol Fuel in it then put some stabil marine in it. The secret to all gas generators is run them monthly or bi monthly for an hour or so with some load on it. I run mine every month or so while I’m cutting the grass.
Also pick up some spark plugs. Make sure to get the correct spark plug as some have a resistor in it and the control looks for that spark signal and if you put a generic plug in it they will not run. Look at the exhaust and you will see a screen on most portables that is the spark arrestor. Make sure it stays clean or it will create back pressure and it will not run or will not carry a load.

Thanks guys. Thanks kg, great info there especially about the spark plug.

quote:

Originally posted by apf383:
Thanks guys. Thanks kg, great info there especially about the spark plug.

Fuel will be your biggest issue with it. I'd recommend only non-ethanol fuel and stabilizer in it, and run it every 2-4 weeks with a load on it......and rotate the fuel out every 2 months.......maybe 3 at most. Then just dump the fuel in your cars tank and refill the can(s). Also don't forget to have good HD extension cords that are rated for 15 amps (if you're running something heavy like a refrigerator, hot plate, or portable a/c off of them). Costco sells a 2 pack of 50' at a reasonable price.

Non ethanol if you can get it, here, WaWa sells it at the pump.

Stabil or some fuel stabilizer is a good idea as it will sit for a while.

Break in as the book says, run it at least a half hour to an hour some load on it, change the oil.

Be sure to do as was said and keep stabil, spare oil and plugs handy, also pick up a couple of extra 5 gallon fuel cans.

I always have one full, generator has fuel with stabil in it. When hurricane season is here, I fill three cans and the generator, then run off one can for the lawn tractor, and rotate cans, filling each week. So fresh fuel and 20 gallons are on hand at all times.

During the 04 hurricanes power was out all over the city, there was gas but most stations didn't have the power to run the pumps. So it wasn't just finding a station with fuel, it was finding one that had power, and even then you needed cash, no phone lines for CC machines.

Its a dual fuel, gasoline and lpg. Plan on going exclusively lpg to avoid all of the gasoline issues mentioned above. I’ve already got a few cans lying around so stock piling lpg is not a prob. Thanks guys.

It's obvious, so forgive me, but make sure it is full of oil before you start it.

I had a supervisor once who started up a big compressor before I could get the manual read. The manual said "ADD OIL BEFORE STARTING". I shut it down in only a few seconds, but it never really ran right after that.

Thanks SS, that's actually the first thing I did so as not to forget.

quote:

obvious, so forgive me, but make sure it is full of oil before you start it.

By s.s.

Compressors ,generators, snow blowers, lawn mowers.

Always make the oil check 1st.

The neighbor purchased a $2,000.00 snow blower, he asked to see it start up and run , prior to loading it in his trailer.

Had the shop mechanic not been there to assist in loading ,
They would have ruined the motor.

Speaking of non-ethanol gas here's a starting place for you to look.

https://www.pure-gas.org/

Mine decreases speed wit no load, but it's an inverter based generator. Honda EU2200i. I've been living off it for three days now. Big enough to handle a fridge/freezer, and cell chargers. A small lamp... Whole house would be nice, but this gets us by. Though the frequency of my outages (trees -- we live in the woods) is making me re-think my prior procrastination in a larger external fuels tank.

Not to hijack thee thread, but perhaps this helps the op too.



Link to eBay tank sales site

Rogue, the external fuel tank is the way to go............but get a few of the portable 6 gallon tanks. The marine portable fuel tanks seal extremely well and easy to swap from tank to tank with the quick disconnect (without even shutting the gen down) and fuel stores well in them without getting water in it or fumes. The tank/hose/fittings are all sold normally in a marine store and even possibly Walmarts boating section. Only thing you can't buy in the marine store is the silver cap screwed on the generator itself, can get the brass fitting screwed into it. Get the black ethanol rated fuel hose, that grey stuff in the picture isn't good with ethanol and degrades and clogs the carb. If you get the hose with the primer bulb, easy to get a quick disconnect to hose barb, and then put the tank higher than your cars fuel tank and get a syphon going and every 6 weeks or so just put it in your vehicles tank to refill and keep it fresh.

Thanks for all the help. Did a nice break in today increasing the load as I went. After running Stabil treated gasoline for a few hrs. I drained the carb then ran it on propane for the last hour with no load. Drained the oil, which had plenty of metallics in suspension, and replaced with synthetic. I’m now good to go.

good job. we also prefer propane. built this electric home 5 years ago with an underground propane tank. propane is for the grill, two faux fireplaces & the generator.